This was actually the first Star Trek costume I ever made. And I made it in the week running up to the Plano Sci-Fi Expo. I spent that entire week pouring over reference images, write-ups from owners of screen used costumes, sketches and notes from the set, etc. I didn't want to shell out the $25/piece for the patterns I needed from Roddenberry.com and end up spending more on the patterns than on the fabric, so instead I resorted to pattern butchery.
I used McCall's M6170 as a jumping off point. It required very little modification to transform it into the duty jacket, so I was really, really happy about that. The jacket did take a bit longer than expected since it was still allot of trial and error, especially with the white panels on the outer front right and inside front left. There are a couple of flaws. The lining is supposed to be black, and I did burgundy instead, and I still haven't had a chance to add the chain detailing on the black edging, but I'll get to it eventually. Overall, it turned out pretty spot on to the screen used ones I've seen, so I'm pleased!
I didn't really use a pattern for the undershirt. It's just a turtleneck with two front darts and two bust darts, so I basically just dove at my fabric with a pair of scissors and cut out something at the last minute. The only fiddly bit was the quilted collar, but it wasn't really too bad.
I did cheat on the skirt...I had been working on the jacket the entire week and ran out of time before the Expo to make the skirt, so I just bought a straight skirt from Goodwill and wore that. ^^; Still, it's the right style, and it looks good with the uniform, so I'm keeping it!
The jacket is made of "biking red" suiting wool from Joann's, which is pretty dead on for the colour from the films. The white panels were gabardine, and the undershirt was a heavy cream coloured knit.
I've definitely refined my work on these uniforms since I made this one! I've had a chance to work with the official patterns, and I found out that, hey, my butchered pattern was pretty dead on! There isn't an official pattern for the skirt for the uniform, but I've found a Simplicity pattern that I like, so I'll stick with that. :)