tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74400115964890939322024-03-19T03:47:15.675-05:00ClusterFrockMistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.comBlogger465125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-10218418607484508112024-01-02T22:02:00.001-06:002024-01-02T22:02:36.016-06:002023 in Review<div><div><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUn7Ej0I3JcRxO7yBSCyKWzGHSFnp_hHfwyjFhm2gf2RpYkLQvzj_xW9p4xfc-4xFO8v-_n0n5KGMf2GGhr07mw4gJpy2Ci1_XF5duSrwPJHBYU2_ooYYP2lfw1X0bpY1munFkY263Sq5kMqONpcp_YYFQ2efZ0S7CZO0sHs9caMN3B0bpYoJKxpAH4k/s320/2023review.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="202" data-original-width="320" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUn7Ej0I3JcRxO7yBSCyKWzGHSFnp_hHfwyjFhm2gf2RpYkLQvzj_xW9p4xfc-4xFO8v-_n0n5KGMf2GGhr07mw4gJpy2Ci1_XF5duSrwPJHBYU2_ooYYP2lfw1X0bpY1munFkY263Sq5kMqONpcp_YYFQ2efZ0S7CZO0sHs9caMN3B0bpYoJKxpAH4k/s1600/2023review.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">It’s
been another quiet sewing year, which started with MANY plans and ended
with only a few new undies and one complete outfit. I certainly
didn’t <i>intend</i> for that the be the way of things, and I even got a
running start at the beginning of the year, knocking out a new
crinoline and petticoats, a corset, and a new dress form.</span></p><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px; text-align: center;"><u style="font-family: inherit;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpWNAbl-uMg-E_HPdguA9j2bkS4u24yJlwU0vVfKUlk_6gp0TwR5bPqf8KAXmGtGRZpesMIEnsZZ1Rzar62TsYOnwlBgVAQ-9HJC2VvYBUmtPzDvUpPCm4w7-PFYBKC5pWbLGW_THHGi31_OpbVkV_riQqff2uQEyK6WbNrpM95-FQPI25n2K1zSpTSw/s2048/412279039_10160506672346339_726980298138260195_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpWNAbl-uMg-E_HPdguA9j2bkS4u24yJlwU0vVfKUlk_6gp0TwR5bPqf8KAXmGtGRZpesMIEnsZZ1Rzar62TsYOnwlBgVAQ-9HJC2VvYBUmtPzDvUpPCm4w7-PFYBKC5pWbLGW_THHGi31_OpbVkV_riQqff2uQEyK6WbNrpM95-FQPI25n2K1zSpTSw/w300-h400/412279039_10160506672346339_726980298138260195_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></b></u><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><u style="font-family: inherit;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavjbANYAV3qmOS1KvxHDis9xNU6OnrWEEjLiZ_BhfUWKyyWsS7_2ihlmHZPbCaSf0DLXLnAENyb2S5s8zKwnXc5zf9c6FFiJ3EAzGYLftct3pUsPsHW7bdpdU7d501nfddzcxoquj7uxmeYzOLTRYomnohJvm6rYHY15NqjK1JBdVRZSyqM7qa8X-b6Q/s2048/412321161_10160506672406339_1902809957295245932_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavjbANYAV3qmOS1KvxHDis9xNU6OnrWEEjLiZ_BhfUWKyyWsS7_2ihlmHZPbCaSf0DLXLnAENyb2S5s8zKwnXc5zf9c6FFiJ3EAzGYLftct3pUsPsHW7bdpdU7d501nfddzcxoquj7uxmeYzOLTRYomnohJvm6rYHY15NqjK1JBdVRZSyqM7qa8X-b6Q/w300-h400/412321161_10160506672406339_1902809957295245932_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></b></u><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavjbANYAV3qmOS1KvxHDis9xNU6OnrWEEjLiZ_BhfUWKyyWsS7_2ihlmHZPbCaSf0DLXLnAENyb2S5s8zKwnXc5zf9c6FFiJ3EAzGYLftct3pUsPsHW7bdpdU7d501nfddzcxoquj7uxmeYzOLTRYomnohJvm6rYHY15NqjK1JBdVRZSyqM7qa8X-b6Q/s2048/412321161_10160506672406339_1902809957295245932_n.jpg"><u style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b></u></a><u style="font-family: inherit;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLqJgamHDPAG_JQNzawUd9GzBGvQpqE7tlFxRik8DPPZdqjHzGP2LMnmiaDnvalJAScWN4DqKtxzJSTJ_iUgWDRGg8Uht8Vj3WfGJ8Ms1SIcMCdzBTH6NzT3BvchldGCAdcPgcrd088XJGTV6d_PJPVcXgOLyAnLmgPOiEFa6KvMQX5RHeA8kXOBJqfk/s2048/412344273_10160506672481339_5062805175547158546_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLqJgamHDPAG_JQNzawUd9GzBGvQpqE7tlFxRik8DPPZdqjHzGP2LMnmiaDnvalJAScWN4DqKtxzJSTJ_iUgWDRGg8Uht8Vj3WfGJ8Ms1SIcMCdzBTH6NzT3BvchldGCAdcPgcrd088XJGTV6d_PJPVcXgOLyAnLmgPOiEFa6KvMQX5RHeA8kXOBJqfk/w300-h400/412344273_10160506672481339_5062805175547158546_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></b></u></p><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Then,
I found out in March that I was pregnant! I had a horrible first
trimester and was so sick I could barely do anything productive. This
was replaced in the second trimester with daily nosebleeds. My third
trimester was cut short when, during a regular checkup with my OB, they
noted that my blood pressure was a bit high and getting higher, so I was
sent to the ER, who immediately admitted me while they tried to wrangle
my BP. But, after chasing my BP with meds for several days, they
decided that they would schedule my c-section for the day that baby hit
34 weeks. After 10 days in the hospital, Kate was born at 4lbs 6oz!</span></p><div style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">She
spent some time in the NICU and did so well that they sent her home
early. So, it’s been an extremely eventful year. I've started to ease
back into sewing, and was trying to get some things done before my
maternity leave was over, but alas, not a single garment was completed.</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The only thing I was able to complete to a wearable state was a 16th century maternity outfit consisting of a loose kirtle, loose gown, a coif + forehead cloth, and a partlet. I made all of these in just two weeks, and it was a major crunch! I had plans for so much more, but two weeks later I was in the hospital on the way to giving birth.</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; text-align: center;"><u style="font-family: inherit;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZI5C7Z1BFMnXoJUr5XmTsxLeONX4yDTClSLq-HhZDkZshgu_fxecSf-JxtF7KsiGphmsgnp8eK87N7hWKM9ybzwrQGSowWTOab6v8JrSJzaeZDfkMqnBflmcFysLh9tvuHK2v5Zj5IaY5wl7rvjsZJyS5ujxzYJWjeirt3s0ORZXrB_YtFOPCv-Adug/s2048/412340393_10160506672511339_8905004988769965972_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1630" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZI5C7Z1BFMnXoJUr5XmTsxLeONX4yDTClSLq-HhZDkZshgu_fxecSf-JxtF7KsiGphmsgnp8eK87N7hWKM9ybzwrQGSowWTOab6v8JrSJzaeZDfkMqnBflmcFysLh9tvuHK2v5Zj5IaY5wl7rvjsZJyS5ujxzYJWjeirt3s0ORZXrB_YtFOPCv-Adug/w319-h400/412340393_10160506672511339_8905004988769965972_n.jpg" width="319" /></a></b></u><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><u style="font-family: inherit;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wSS8gv0bQj23d4b2H3VJw_rBf0fHOGDmqQLBxB9xr2_jGr6zEuqUKvRMAPRRtbzfadMKQfZ6HxRXQymahzkzqBHSclrQozotfqTjfm60lA8dbyJtR0ue8Ja9N0t8exZ0wRBq3k4uiANBwvP9JTP3Duk0ri7SU9IxlO4loofeiAhWdzdFd4GX43l79j4/s2738/IMG_0807.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2738" data-original-width="1540" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wSS8gv0bQj23d4b2H3VJw_rBf0fHOGDmqQLBxB9xr2_jGr6zEuqUKvRMAPRRtbzfadMKQfZ6HxRXQymahzkzqBHSclrQozotfqTjfm60lA8dbyJtR0ue8Ja9N0t8exZ0wRBq3k4uiANBwvP9JTP3Duk0ri7SU9IxlO4loofeiAhWdzdFd4GX43l79j4/w225-h400/IMG_0807.jpg" width="225" /></a></b></u></div><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Next
year promises to be a little bit quieter, and I have a huge basket of
half-finished projects to finish that I'm ready to tackle. There's a
corded petticoat I'm still hoping to finish before the end of the week, as well as my 1872 corset, for
which the embroidery is finally complete and only assembly is required. I
lost about 30 pounds during the course of my pregnancy, so the 1906
corset that I finished at the beginning of the year is now too small, as
is the dress form I made when the corset was first complete! But, once I
have the new dress form complete, shenanigans will resume.</span></p><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I’m
hoping to get more involved with my local SCA barony, which means a lot
more late-period Elizabethan things on the menu. I’m also hoping to
take the trip to Dickens that I had to cancel this year, since Kate’s
original due date was supposed to fall on Thanksgiving and I certainly
wasn’t going to Dickens so soon after giving birth. All the plans I had
for 2023 have been shifted to 2024, so there are lots of
mid-Victorian/1850s things that are going to happen.</span></p><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I
didn’t get my YouTube channel back up and running this year, for all
the reasons listed above, so I’m hoping to ease my way back into it in
2024. Of course, my brain has already come up with a thousand ideas for
videos and projects, but I’m going to try and not overwhelm myself, and
am shooting for a video a month.</span></p><p class="yiv6195012896ydpc8d12a95yiv2980308571ydp3e91227cMsoNormal" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">So that’s it! I hope everyone had a great year, and I’ll see you all again in 2024!</span></p></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></div>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-38872692458050533912023-09-30T16:43:00.007-05:002023-09-30T18:44:04.788-05:001590s Maternity Clothes - A German Loose Kirtle and Loose Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Nznof_iD5evRvNlRQ4gLBdbTLWODrdfz-Joe95Pqx5Z2OYNvddY1dODTL0LaB_NBQpqbTzd7fqlaW59hyphenhyphenMeK31ylzkyKkeh1OzxtRCUM93ID8Sbzkhs9r2UxK0Pltuo7X7H1BchrJNeYdFlVGaf2dpckN2dF5q327VymIT0Uwv4JuYSHt1NEb2XDXDY/s2048/IMG_0807-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Nznof_iD5evRvNlRQ4gLBdbTLWODrdfz-Joe95Pqx5Z2OYNvddY1dODTL0LaB_NBQpqbTzd7fqlaW59hyphenhyphenMeK31ylzkyKkeh1OzxtRCUM93ID8Sbzkhs9r2UxK0Pltuo7X7H1BchrJNeYdFlVGaf2dpckN2dF5q327VymIT0Uwv4JuYSHt1NEb2XDXDY/s320/IMG_0807-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">There's
something about a looming deadline on an impossible time table that
makes me want to make super elaborate things at the very last minute.</span></p><div class="ydp624bd892yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-size: 16px;"><div id="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317"><div><div class="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-size: 16px;"><div id="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840"><div><div class="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-size: 16px;"><div id="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097"><div><div class="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097ydp82812ce5yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-size: 16px;"><div id="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097ydp82812ce5yiv1880133498"><div><div class="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097ydp82812ce5yiv1880133498ydpf84abd05yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-size: 16px;"><div id="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097ydp82812ce5yiv1880133498ydpf84abd05yiv9608410042"><div><div class="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097ydp82812ce5yiv1880133498ydpf84abd05yiv9608410042ydp5ca1712ayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-size: 16px;"><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With
my local SCA's Baronial College a mere two weeks away, I decided, quite
suddenly, that I wanted to make a whole new ensemble to wear to it. The
last time I'd made anything 16th Century was over a decade ago and
wouldn't fit even if I <i>wasn't</i> 7 months pregnant, so I <i>had </i>to make something new! I couldn't just show up in modern clothes, right?</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I
decided to take a stab at a German loose kirtle, since I figured that
would be the comfiest, roomiest option that would require the least
amount of finagling to fit over a bump that seemed to be expanding
daily. I also wouldn't have to worry about finishing my long in-progress
stays or my farthingale in order to wear it. <i><br /></i></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Loose
gowns and kirtles seemed to also have been favored in-period as
maternity wear. There are plenty of portraits of women with a noticeable
baby bump wearing loose gowns and unfitted kirtles, like the examples
below.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1P69mRfNO0ERjZ8JFRZ6j2cNCgjNg6dBaioeuT3gv1TVuKm1JiHSjxYf0pZec1q7OKigBoUudnLCfctyH-rD9Q3XuPtV-TtS31f7tpXB9OGv8_O3zv0w4Sy_EKYFbyw3sqsVJ_J2Mzc_lXbT-p2daXMFjC_InoMZH5pLe-5NWun_0mLgH5BKyXefjeM/s4037/Steven_van_der_Meulen_-_Portrait_of_a_Woman,_probably_Catherine_Carey,_Lady_Knollys_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="4037" data-original-width="2904" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1P69mRfNO0ERjZ8JFRZ6j2cNCgjNg6dBaioeuT3gv1TVuKm1JiHSjxYf0pZec1q7OKigBoUudnLCfctyH-rD9Q3XuPtV-TtS31f7tpXB9OGv8_O3zv0w4Sy_EKYFbyw3sqsVJ_J2Mzc_lXbT-p2daXMFjC_InoMZH5pLe-5NWun_0mLgH5BKyXefjeM/w288-h400/Steven_van_der_Meulen_-_Portrait_of_a_Woman,_probably_Catherine_Carey,_Lady_Knollys_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="288" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnPnJVkuY1koNJBL7sJh-Zp9vqPUm7zVGvdgbZz1zUsnNIfAPfIR44wZGReYIvyLh5RjxMiGQDEQOBMXXH54xopYgwlNQunHhHBS0vEurFXleefuRSbnESLCCIgIDwKsqRx2cB6KEZ83UHFQVt1xbmz7d6jqNwY9xGP5jk35J3C_4AJ5XJYcBOu330BY/s1536/325598499_922756245749083_4687636141694094151_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1250" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnPnJVkuY1koNJBL7sJh-Zp9vqPUm7zVGvdgbZz1zUsnNIfAPfIR44wZGReYIvyLh5RjxMiGQDEQOBMXXH54xopYgwlNQunHhHBS0vEurFXleefuRSbnESLCCIgIDwKsqRx2cB6KEZ83UHFQVt1xbmz7d6jqNwY9xGP5jk35J3C_4AJ5XJYcBOu330BY/w325-h400/325598499_922756245749083_4687636141694094151_n.jpg" width="325" /><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="340" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_ZKkYrT3FX494pdXg7GBoq3kqXIBDDhoH9dILh5e8lQWaXvjenMKMor6XXI-n24tI9teyYeJ0SmQT6eNrf0ghTWNbuORT2cT7Eu68PlarVJA0JmoGfYBkyKA9CTHAay8iVYONlbenq9LAUIZ46Gyc3zuWXHM-cIcnKuq9F6fxYwAzw5YN41uk-PT0Es/w303-h400/ladyburghley1563.jpg" width="303" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Top Left: <span>1562: Portrait thought to be Lady Knollys (maternity), by Steven van der Meulen.</span></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Top Right :Attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts II, <a href="https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/gheeraerts-portrait-of-an-unknown-lady-t07699" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Portrait of an Unknown Lady</a>, (c.1595) Tate
</span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Bottom: <a href="https://www.whtimes.co.uk/things-to-do/22361045.elizabethan-art-expert-explore-rare-16th-century-pregnancy-portrait-chancellors-lecture/" target="_blank">Hans Eworth, Mildred Cooke Cecil, later Lady Burghley</a>, c.1563, Hatfield House</span></i></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Maternity
portraits in the late Elizabethan and early Jacobean period seem to
have been something of a trend. Pregnancy was rarely depicted in
portraiture in other eras, but we have a number of portraits of visibly
pregnant women from the late-16th and early-17th century wearing
fashionable garb and showing off those belly bumps. Some art historians
have called this period a golden age of maternity portraiture, because
it drops off almost entirely after the 17th century when visible
pregnancy nearly vanishes from portraiture. Some speculate that the
increase in maternity portraits during the late-16th century is linked
to the rise of Protestantism, where instead of the Catholic ideals of
chastity and virginity, Luther and the Protestant church declared
pregnancy to be a "holy state", and that the later disappearance of
these types of portraits is because of a rise in more conservative
values again - pregnancy suggested that the woman was sexually active,
and even the dutiful wife was supposed to appear pure and chaste, so no
more maternity portraits. It's an interesting subject that hasn't been
widely studied, but if you want more info I suggest checking out Karen
Hearn's book <i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Portraying-Pregnancy-Holbein-Social-Karen/dp/1911300806" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Portraying Pregnancy: Holbein to Social Media</a>.</i><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Anyway, <i>The Tudor Tailor</i> and <i>Patterns of Fashion 3</i> both feature patterns for the same loose kirtle, based off this extant from the Germanisches National Museum.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ6Dgjlb9pOwfFhBPiDLncqNn3AHJBIbFN__sGNw-UrkyZuPODGVeSqL0X6ApIwNUI6JHfkAaGKcTl3PNgB5LRV63epU2Qe2sco1phke8IRmGpxzHgx7ypJ7XG5zDF644lv1D4KFBOX6nL3l1ff5ALASDLHTrVUG9KP8xYPBuwx_PyV0M9eHkyA-UkfNQ/s1087/germankirtle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1087" data-original-width="925" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ6Dgjlb9pOwfFhBPiDLncqNn3AHJBIbFN__sGNw-UrkyZuPODGVeSqL0X6ApIwNUI6JHfkAaGKcTl3PNgB5LRV63epU2Qe2sco1phke8IRmGpxzHgx7ypJ7XG5zDF644lv1D4KFBOX6nL3l1ff5ALASDLHTrVUG9KP8xYPBuwx_PyV0M9eHkyA-UkfNQ/w544-h640/germankirtle.jpg" width="544" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Loose kirtle - 1560-1590, Germanisches National Museum<br /></span></i></span></div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><a class="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097ydp82812ce5yiv1880133498ydpf84abd05yiv9608410042ydpf567ea06enhancr_card_4532530731 ydp624bd892yiv9639314317ydp7fb7fbe8yiv1733551840ydpe1457682yiv7622599097ydp82812ce5yiv1880133498ydpf84abd05yiv9608410042ydpe55d672benhancr_card_4518673328" href="https://objektkatalog.gnm.de/wisski/navigate/70422/view" rel="nofollow" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Unterkleid zum Weiten Rock (T3618) | Objektkatalog</a></i></span></div><br /><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In the first week of work, I planned drafted the patterns out of the books and
got everything ready to sew so that once I had fabric in my hands I
could power through and get the garments themselves done as quickly as
possible. But when I compared to the measurements in <i>Tudor Tailor </i>to
my own, I discovered that there was a 17 inch difference between them! I
didn't see the point of drafting out the pattern as-is and then
suffering through trying to slash-and-spread to cover such a huge size
gap, so instead I drafted out a new body block (using my most recent
pre-pregnancy measurements) and altered the pattern from there so that
it matched what I was seeing on the original.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ffPMHQGIgeBXhwMQRjEMnXSc5CICVsGsCQX-jLGBQTD5P8bhu8ZTMbdqQ3T1S8BAKIwQ4FduT7QxA4fuz9i15u0HXIvV5Mhoitu5RLsj_DTNc10jLN7OrKosxHjhp5VzXzDVwO9b1rWbiq0fMh893nS2yzhTqDKcitr7w8n4hQyC-hjxMSscLmZyO2A/s4032/53202878108_c95790b615_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ffPMHQGIgeBXhwMQRjEMnXSc5CICVsGsCQX-jLGBQTD5P8bhu8ZTMbdqQ3T1S8BAKIwQ4FduT7QxA4fuz9i15u0HXIvV5Mhoitu5RLsj_DTNc10jLN7OrKosxHjhp5VzXzDVwO9b1rWbiq0fMh893nS2yzhTqDKcitr7w8n4hQyC-hjxMSscLmZyO2A/w640-h480/53202878108_c95790b615_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
kirtle has no waist seam. The front is very loose and flowy, while the
back is slightly more shaped but not overly fitted. There's a panel
on the front that acts as a forepart and is sewn onto the front of the kirtle
and so is not integral to the construction. <br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I
only had to draft two pieces for the kirtle - the front and the back.
Once I had my initial draft, I did a mockup in some cheap muslin to see
how it fit. The mockup was slightly longer than the initial pattern since I extended it down to hip-length and added the flare of the skirt.<span style="font-family: inherit;"> I ended up taking a scoop out of the center back seam and adjusting the armhole a bit, but otherwise it was pretty close!</span></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmUACW4SXcEguylBylIhH0fnX9nRW_Y5O8iVJQ0PF6XnwubVm38tAjoFjYZ2HydZsxWTAHJ8z5135T7SMMf4Xgy_UYNj7MoX0lbLkxOW0NthrsVndN3hupMXqhqaoXV00dexWtnqMYfgCgAsPVipYQX4_tuuzfr7TEiFCXAzm70XHNrIJE5eTvcwWG9Ws/s4032/53202958199_f7616f988b_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmUACW4SXcEguylBylIhH0fnX9nRW_Y5O8iVJQ0PF6XnwubVm38tAjoFjYZ2HydZsxWTAHJ8z5135T7SMMf4Xgy_UYNj7MoX0lbLkxOW0NthrsVndN3hupMXqhqaoXV00dexWtnqMYfgCgAsPVipYQX4_tuuzfr7TEiFCXAzm70XHNrIJE5eTvcwWG9Ws/w640-h480/53202958199_f7616f988b_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> <br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The loose gown to go over it would also be based on a pattern in <i>The Tudor Tailor</i>, which is even more simple than the kirtle pattern - they body is just one pattern piece, which you cut out four times. I used the front piece from the kirtle pattern as my starting point, since it was already 90% there, and simple straightened the side seam line. That was it!<br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The <i>Tudor Tailor</i>
pattern has two options for sleeves, but I was sort of tempted to do
Spanish-style hanging sleeves as seen on some very late period examples
from the 1590s and beyond. But then I'd have to have much flashier
kirtle sleeves, and I didn't think I'd have the time for that. So, I first tried going for the sleeve that resembled the Edwardian leg-o-mutton sleeve, but ya'll, that was one <i>weird </i>sleeve pattern. All of the volume was concentrated <i>under </i>the arm instead of on top, creating a sort of weird armpit bag. I thought that I must have done something wrong, even though I'd drafted it directly from the book, so I posted in the Elizabethan Costuming group on FB, where Ninya Mikhaila, the author of <i>Tudor Tailor</i> and creator of the pattern said, "Nope, you did it right! That's how it's supposed to be!" It was nice to know that yes, I do actually know what I'm doing, but also, I hated it.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJGImUlKBfvJbSL-iUxfxVc5rMKok-oRSLTnJ0z0zHdNRlmcE5IbA_o46TeqOe6eRfvP2NN12i4rm4inSL1QL5YtrOMFLiaS5oZQgCpLKLvKQdZAFOtohypNfSADFPIrNM7SeBKrk7fBY_IR3yXwK0W3I1EjGwBpchgCiS0dTeVWLANwr_N9kgo36sDw/s4032/53202878098_e4570e2c05_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJGImUlKBfvJbSL-iUxfxVc5rMKok-oRSLTnJ0z0zHdNRlmcE5IbA_o46TeqOe6eRfvP2NN12i4rm4inSL1QL5YtrOMFLiaS5oZQgCpLKLvKQdZAFOtohypNfSADFPIrNM7SeBKrk7fBY_IR3yXwK0W3I1EjGwBpchgCiS0dTeVWLANwr_N9kgo36sDw/w300-h400/53202878098_e4570e2c05_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></div></span><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Two halves of the sleeve. Each piece was placed on the fold to create the entire piece. The smaller piece is the sleeve lining, with the larger piece the fashion layer. </i></span></span><br /></div><br /></div></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3LsyftrWNWv6nQ4LGog7BKROpqX2hDP7KTkNJlvowMJ89jkLA4abqtBSCijITcAYcgUhOU_Q-OyX0HKrvhB9S7rL2F88MrQU1adY-SLUAAUQp7xS0Cx-lR4EuWEuROeQ4JHmBj1ammJS4NYIEPu4tJGxaNEdzf5pWp8e4pdBCAhkMvlNSXJKvrxcSRfs/s2278/53202987935_65cfe96a2d_o.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2278" data-original-width="1452" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3LsyftrWNWv6nQ4LGog7BKROpqX2hDP7KTkNJlvowMJ89jkLA4abqtBSCijITcAYcgUhOU_Q-OyX0HKrvhB9S7rL2F88MrQU1adY-SLUAAUQp7xS0Cx-lR4EuWEuROeQ4JHmBj1ammJS4NYIEPu4tJGxaNEdzf5pWp8e4pdBCAhkMvlNSXJKvrxcSRfs/w220-h345/53202987935_65cfe96a2d_o.jpg" width="220" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7A_7GV-34RWLCqER2esx7r0wOFXTmUR5cRTkI35Dqd6tSqbZ18Ba6fYDKli4vaSD9u43dKGHv7Ab6NyV2HvdV3_P4MRF7KVuwIuY8mleH2FnUTmbRAuM388owuce65a4K0pcaizVaHnvoWMqRsuUxqbAQEv1xiZkY3ZXrxncp71mujSbW-t6Xp3Dq5zA/s2564/53202958054_e4f3e6d483_o.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2202" data-original-width="2564" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7A_7GV-34RWLCqER2esx7r0wOFXTmUR5cRTkI35Dqd6tSqbZ18Ba6fYDKli4vaSD9u43dKGHv7Ab6NyV2HvdV3_P4MRF7KVuwIuY8mleH2FnUTmbRAuM388owuce65a4K0pcaizVaHnvoWMqRsuUxqbAQEv1xiZkY3ZXrxncp71mujSbW-t6Xp3Dq5zA/w400-h344/53202958054_e4f3e6d483_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">You can see here how all of the volume is in the underarm. If all that volume was on top, I would have liked the sleeve a whole lot better!</span></i><br /></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">So yeah, I hated it, and decided to draft out the alternate sleeve pattern, which was a loose, one piece sleeve with a slash down the front to reveal a colored lining.</span></div></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKpr_HZOju6BOB69oQQ0gsJUuSUnJ74iDI19-CJiWQ1d5PBlL2x6vilQs8lm1LXfTcMQL7N87Y8MsaukNObtVt-YqbxIbvNIXGbtkG1QZpESvLDXuv0QfVlefCluaBck-yvvxktyqR-DhC-rTvDkbkUium-yq9MZcMP5qBOThsIn9JSVquA8YS7qiVMQ/s4032/53202878478_37a6c6b854_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKpr_HZOju6BOB69oQQ0gsJUuSUnJ74iDI19-CJiWQ1d5PBlL2x6vilQs8lm1LXfTcMQL7N87Y8MsaukNObtVt-YqbxIbvNIXGbtkG1QZpESvLDXuv0QfVlefCluaBck-yvvxktyqR-DhC-rTvDkbkUium-yq9MZcMP5qBOThsIn9JSVquA8YS7qiVMQ/w640-h480/53202878478_37a6c6b854_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I didn't take a pic of the mockup of this sleeve, but it worked right off the bat and was much more sane than the other style!</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With the patterns ready to go, the weekend arrived, and I could finally hit the fabric warehouses in Dallas to find my fabrics.<br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
fabric plan was to make the kirtle in black taffeta, which I already had in my fabric stash, with something spiffy
for the forepart and sleeves, and to find a flashy brocade for the gown
that would be interesting enough on its own that it wouldn't require a
lot of time-consuming embellishment. While a huge number of loose gowns
in period were black, toward the end of the century, and the decades
that interest me the most, colorful brocades and velvets are not unusual
and make for some really striking gowns. Armed with a vague plan, I hit every warehouse I could, and eventually came away with these - the black slated for the forepart, and the gold for the gown.</span><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigXwT2AyTpWw7gzEyfT8R_5J-snkyBQWjgvFbB87NyUxdpQq_v0TqZHtYfJbtK4knXaEe0-veoLP9V4_oAUMevsKZ5m4XPwdiDTNH6BJdDX-yO3pQGfjQVbuZS01YtuKuATaQZ8Be9vDvyANB5YUXqWZAThne3m6lExyvrQqiER9DZWVGWx_iDHOPJ1CE/s4032/53202958724_382d2d051e_o.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigXwT2AyTpWw7gzEyfT8R_5J-snkyBQWjgvFbB87NyUxdpQq_v0TqZHtYfJbtK4knXaEe0-veoLP9V4_oAUMevsKZ5m4XPwdiDTNH6BJdDX-yO3pQGfjQVbuZS01YtuKuATaQZ8Be9vDvyANB5YUXqWZAThne3m6lExyvrQqiER9DZWVGWx_iDHOPJ1CE/w300-h400/53202958724_382d2d051e_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">I started sewing as soon as I got home, diving in with the kirtle. I cut out the front of the kirtle first. Since I didn't have a full-length pattern, I had to measure down from the waist to create the skirt portion.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzktQLEAFXlupHh0B-MHQlzw6wo5tTWvpRzCbejBepIjR_yXLoNla_2PZQX8Pwuh44C6wPFKwl-6pDsKS8oa9ap1AbjIHfrzMyFvmZBxqns6swxCPoFlgdQ6LAVSRlx0ZXh0geLsQQ_L2nXBjKa1su-ZzzImaE6vVHsrYBuza90T5hEctDjZsKoGRudf4/s4032/53202988320_7c8e794264_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzktQLEAFXlupHh0B-MHQlzw6wo5tTWvpRzCbejBepIjR_yXLoNla_2PZQX8Pwuh44C6wPFKwl-6pDsKS8oa9ap1AbjIHfrzMyFvmZBxqns6swxCPoFlgdQ6LAVSRlx0ZXh0geLsQQ_L2nXBjKa1su-ZzzImaE6vVHsrYBuza90T5hEctDjZsKoGRudf4/w300-h400/53202988320_7c8e794264_o.jpg" width="300" /><br /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">To make the forepart, I drew out the line I wanted onto the pattern, and then just folded away the portion that I didn't need.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVRgWNPYSYUIK-GMx-lGEgqbai5-YrwfDzIE_Vyaj_R_-W1RSdxjytXui_eakgBoOBphgOoFzgJYDlFvc6N8dGRGTnHtDikCJ9UTIEJI1U5PKHcfnHT4TC_uhbs7gqqsPPZ9Wylc7Y6lleDa8BbReqoNx13NpioMaCZRD6Pv8fDgnZ6CZ8BBCC6_9TRmE/s4032/53202878148_0f1abf2869_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVRgWNPYSYUIK-GMx-lGEgqbai5-YrwfDzIE_Vyaj_R_-W1RSdxjytXui_eakgBoOBphgOoFzgJYDlFvc6N8dGRGTnHtDikCJ9UTIEJI1U5PKHcfnHT4TC_uhbs7gqqsPPZ9Wylc7Y6lleDa8BbReqoNx13NpioMaCZRD6Pv8fDgnZ6CZ8BBCC6_9TRmE/w300-h400/53202878148_0f1abf2869_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">The forepart then was stitched down directly on top of the front panel, with the seam allowances tucked under.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs4kvlKSSrnEU6jIP-5mrmgoq_KNWfReISILz5cZZzJAbgL0pehuJuE-OKCiCjMfLEeH1O_gvZc3df7SvGSM3ojyrUiLdLGnzbpVNa-1ui4G3_h6Zhk14J6mJCBz1aih37x1FNDdmKgx6IiYPQWmcQZItlUs7vbuV1_iHEbBbb3xPSbkim2A-M6qcbBCY/s4032/53202654661_9d8d10ce88_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs4kvlKSSrnEU6jIP-5mrmgoq_KNWfReISILz5cZZzJAbgL0pehuJuE-OKCiCjMfLEeH1O_gvZc3df7SvGSM3ojyrUiLdLGnzbpVNa-1ui4G3_h6Zhk14J6mJCBz1aih37x1FNDdmKgx6IiYPQWmcQZItlUs7vbuV1_iHEbBbb3xPSbkim2A-M6qcbBCY/w300-h400/53202654661_9d8d10ce88_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The next day, I switched gears and started working on the gown. </span>I agonized for a while over cutting the gown fabric because I though
that I hadn't bought enough and that I'd have to cut one panel upside
down to make it work, but after staring at the fabric for a good while I
realized that the pattern was designed in such a way that there <i>was </i>no
right or wrong way. Whew! That meant that I could cut everything out
just fine and still have plenty left for the sleeves, and my minor
crisis was averted.<br /><br />I was using a gold taffeta from my fabric stash for the lining, and I ended up not having enough of it to line the entire gown. Luckily I had two
bolts of slightly different colors, and I could use the
not-quite-suitable one to line the back panels where it wouldn't be
seen. </div><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr">I managed to get the entire body of the gown cut out, assembled, and lined in a single day!</div><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlqzSqRCM8QvQbIsE4qtGdv72XAfT90Y2uXEjfHenKyofazAD2MbXEgwxtvYz1X2i-T51N19pcqTfFYRYefEHQgiH-KXYgMvgi-jvio-_-Sg7TCPURsJ9fTC_r3R2H43MPPCDIUlu1EHYhN4TsNtvmx_5iPD_QUjwCnKf7DnEBHVPE3jDQmu1Vte4a6M/s4032/53202654561_5f13f12c06_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlqzSqRCM8QvQbIsE4qtGdv72XAfT90Y2uXEjfHenKyofazAD2MbXEgwxtvYz1X2i-T51N19pcqTfFYRYefEHQgiH-KXYgMvgi-jvio-_-Sg7TCPURsJ9fTC_r3R2H43MPPCDIUlu1EHYhN4TsNtvmx_5iPD_QUjwCnKf7DnEBHVPE3jDQmu1Vte4a6M/w300-h400/53202654561_5f13f12c06_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />Over the next few nights, I worked on sleeves. The sleeve pattern is cut down the slash line, creating two pattern pieces. Between finagling the lining, pressing everything, having to hand-sew the colored panel in - as well as some ouches to give the gown a bit of sparkle - and pleating the sleeves into the armscye, the sleeves took up more than half the week.</div><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqleP4utLSxqCB4R6Qf8ubbur_BcPQM5Fx09RFxQ4kjMThlJM-_LtzWmtLhX2TKOqu7dPV4fOyMz1UUVBhohBysvdsBsYSliiZUPM1xckgE7Qj2kd6Y6nTppAMFGQexSAXkougucqTHVQHEZAXM4gxNqau7UtVVx1y2wS8pciy8mVSH_KKKqm32x13RA/s4032/53202878703_4c5ca3e531_o.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqleP4utLSxqCB4R6Qf8ubbur_BcPQM5Fx09RFxQ4kjMThlJM-_LtzWmtLhX2TKOqu7dPV4fOyMz1UUVBhohBysvdsBsYSliiZUPM1xckgE7Qj2kd6Y6nTppAMFGQexSAXkougucqTHVQHEZAXM4gxNqau7UtVVx1y2wS8pciy8mVSH_KKKqm32x13RA/w225-h300/53202878703_4c5ca3e531_o.jpg" width="225" /> <img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeETvosph09wJcKOOOKLhkPVBfBePGm9nI-ZLBw7jkxCyD6OK1crIqpRQeQqxWezV9shbWXFFQ5qgxK6lURa7C-5qJNa3BG1Prg-B6tKRLlZI-21NIbMvpJhgvLh7Ju3T-C_8WSqGId4E0NUo3a9a8lO4jRFNWehAckDZgGDkxHLYBwXiiAxa-CaptLM/w400-h300/53216799469_502e30cbf5_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> </div><div dir="ltr">By Thursday evening, I still had the hand-sewing to finish on the second sleeve, which meant I had to finish the gown sleeve, the kirtle, and all my accessories - a partlet to wear under the kirtle to mimic a shift (since I wouldn't have enough time to make an entire new shift), a coif, and a forehead cloth - on Friday night. Eep! <br /></div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">To give myself as much time as possible to work on the gown at kirtle in the evening, I took a length of linen with me to work on Friday, where during my down time I cut out and hand-sewed my coif and forehead cloth, and cut out the pieces for my partlet.</div><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr">I used the pattern from <a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coifmake.html" target="_blank">ye olde Elizabethancostume.net for the coif</a>, and used measurements from an original forehead cloth to pattern out mine. I think the coif ended up slightly too small, because afterward I compared the measurements to some museum extants, and the extants seem to have a few more inches of length on them. However, I'm not too bothered, and I was really happy with how both of these items turned out.</div><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRv5TmiPXqi6Du9cfxdq-UM-Swgfk51dw2PyWzpTD97bjAFImyqmqAhv5VTKDSp1A6krl7nkHO4LiVgiwClo9pd0hYTjK9ReMjL5R73m77sRQn542dxGqa8CqB1T4AXCfR_tBwb_EajpfMhJAvOkkfRyKmYXDesBROY1fBTRCi78jL5HPcA0u7ficPBMQ/s3024/53225004279_bb8351fe05_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="2407" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRv5TmiPXqi6Du9cfxdq-UM-Swgfk51dw2PyWzpTD97bjAFImyqmqAhv5VTKDSp1A6krl7nkHO4LiVgiwClo9pd0hYTjK9ReMjL5R73m77sRQn542dxGqa8CqB1T4AXCfR_tBwb_EajpfMhJAvOkkfRyKmYXDesBROY1fBTRCi78jL5HPcA0u7ficPBMQ/w319-h400/53225004279_bb8351fe05_o.jpg" width="319" /></a></div><br /> When I got home, I finished up the remaining sewing on the second sleeve and set it in, thereby finishing the gown! I had quite a bit to do on the kirtle, and y'all, I cut all the corners I could. I cut out the back of the kirtle and sewed it to the front, and then did the <i>dirtiest</i> hem I have ever done, turning up the extra length once and stitching it into place. The neckline was finished off with a bit of cotton bias tape, and I installed an invisible zipper up the center back, because there was <i>no way </i>that I was going to be able to sew all the necessary eyelets in time. I left the entire thing unlined because there was absolutely no time left.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">The last thing to do was assemble the partlet. I had used <a href="https://margospatterns.com/pages/free-patterns" target="_blank">Margo Anderson's free partlet pattern</a>, which includes instructions, so all I had to do was follow along, and the entire thing went together in about 1 1/2 hours.<br /></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And with that, the outfit was...wearable!</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9ArUwZy_KHkK5rnJl2r5XWClHvnmR6_F2IIOUOwKRgWrqwQEky7hGSwBx3BicvIy9HUaB6B6Jm6VFwc1c4SAFtqowJuIyKNEFAm8oDiahGKgm7pnAtSBmEElpcepAPCYOWv2IAP8rw472vFZEY_detVEwwB8Utj0Ai3u0q4etIFD7G_HlbjPpDks5m4/s621/53213144645_4a765ac0af_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="621" data-original-width="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9ArUwZy_KHkK5rnJl2r5XWClHvnmR6_F2IIOUOwKRgWrqwQEky7hGSwBx3BicvIy9HUaB6B6Jm6VFwc1c4SAFtqowJuIyKNEFAm8oDiahGKgm7pnAtSBmEElpcepAPCYOWv2IAP8rw472vFZEY_detVEwwB8Utj0Ai3u0q4etIFD7G_HlbjPpDks5m4/s16000/53213144645_4a765ac0af_o.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I have to say that this was, by far, the most comfortable Elizabethan outfit I have ever made. I wore it all day Saturday at Baronial College, and was always comfortable. I could take off the gown when I got too hot and just wear the kirtle. It was like wearing a big fancy nightgown and big fancy bathrobe. It was fabulous!</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I plan to take the kirtle apart and fix the construction shortcuts I took, line the thing, finish the armholes, and do the proper interlining of the bottom of the skirt like the original had. I also still need to make sleeves for it, since I ran out of time to make them before the event. The zipper will get replaced with some hand-sewn eyelets. </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I also plan to make myself a proper shift so I have all the complete layers.<br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">However, the gown itself is 100% complete, and I love it! I also love that I can wear it with other kirtles in the future, so its a really versatile piece.</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE806-R_pIUvzerAHO1zifjLtTNadz7Nb8B3207nSDFKDZM3BdslYIvun0yC9mIHyZ2sRXIWPsc0jgc3aRps_6SJTcNmnSxApAXt12Zr1IXdGo7pph-uTOyXuUlzbBqQsAUbw9QRw72T5HXQ1EIhwMOm2dayFeLD240HO8d2WTQnaGGR7l3pqCIUxEWZ8/s2738/IMG_0807.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2738" data-original-width="1540" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE806-R_pIUvzerAHO1zifjLtTNadz7Nb8B3207nSDFKDZM3BdslYIvun0yC9mIHyZ2sRXIWPsc0jgc3aRps_6SJTcNmnSxApAXt12Zr1IXdGo7pph-uTOyXuUlzbBqQsAUbw9QRw72T5HXQ1EIhwMOm2dayFeLD240HO8d2WTQnaGGR7l3pqCIUxEWZ8/w225-h400/IMG_0807.jpg" width="225" /></a></span> <img border="0" data-original-height="2559" data-original-width="1439" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLJz0qw2uNoYJmGw5KW4D2ALAI_ceW17D-AnPwIjWvHGYtnf7HRdb86CxOlcbR7eM2_HH5BS_hfxdHEIV6QblevLnikVNv4So41gEvAaaPacKAWt6P-t7GKj6YUbtTUM2xGSqemfy_dzszwgKM_sI4eWvHidlRgijagSrg2VQ26CkNChwEoEjHmD64KWI/w225-h400/IMG_0812.jpg" width="225" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBv4eB-IW_SWtgEKcUVHaabf4mmwjXCBDJxYi9yohWvzIvKABJlsjhx2CzBWvRuM3dH_BhYn-EJ0V-NAuYZpv-BmxM-w12ywhDuhbPlUvDS_pYWh5yXLVlNzgHx54aNLcvE2lasOWZ33F7NjJMIVZj5aiUudWgBE9Y2IU-llFnFqiWq5SfHCcMox17Nw/s2736/IMG_0796.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1539" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBv4eB-IW_SWtgEKcUVHaabf4mmwjXCBDJxYi9yohWvzIvKABJlsjhx2CzBWvRuM3dH_BhYn-EJ0V-NAuYZpv-BmxM-w12ywhDuhbPlUvDS_pYWh5yXLVlNzgHx54aNLcvE2lasOWZ33F7NjJMIVZj5aiUudWgBE9Y2IU-llFnFqiWq5SfHCcMox17Nw/w225-h400/IMG_0796.jpg" width="225" /></a></span> <img border="0" data-original-height="2660" data-original-width="1496" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMBF7hUO_vh2vqdItpri7tkCGxv2uQ89j2iWgblThaJV-9-ChBlecf5rO2AUyBrzlMkSYJtmz5u5QGIEoPh_BdYaJnGWmSMsy-a00Scm4v5fS7JwNH2rnPCvA-BSuf4kWiEKhExvA4DGCx7yX0kT0dMZ8Hf4khuugXsm3n9znZFdBHDblEwSeOq3UyBcA/w225-h400/IMG_0798.jpg" width="225" /></div><br /><br /></div></span><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;">References:</span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div><div dir="ltr"><p style="margin-left: 1cm; text-indent: -1cm;">Davies, Alan. “Elizabethan Art Expert to Explore Rare 16th Century ‘pregnancy Portrait’ in Chancellor’s Lecture.” <i>Welwyn Hatfield Times</i>, Welwyn Hatfield Times, 2 June 2021, <a href="www.whtimes.co.uk/things-to-do/22361045.elizabethan-art-expert-explore-rare-16th-century-pregnancy-portrait-chancellors-lecture/ " target="_blank">www.whtimes.co.uk/things-to-do/22361045.elizabethan-art-expert-explore-rare-16th-century-pregnancy-portrait-chancellors-lecture/ </a><br /></p><div></div></div><div dir="ltr"><p style="margin-left: 1cm; text-indent: -1cm;">Figes, L. (2020, January 20). <i>Portraying pregnancy: From prehistoric art to Jacobean portraiture</i>. Art UK. <a href="https://artuk.org/discover/stories/portraying-pregnancy-from-prehistoric-art-to-jacobean-portraiture " target="_blank">https://artuk.org/discover/stories/portraying-pregnancy-from-prehistoric-art-to-jacobean-portraiture </a></p><div><p style="margin-left: 1cm; text-indent: -1cm;">Garcia-Navarro, L. (2020, January 26). <i>Tracing 500 years of pregnancy portraits, from the Tudors to today</i>. NPR. <a href="https://www.npr.org/2020/01/26/799629311/london-museum-explores-5-centuries-of-pregnancy-portraits " target="_blank">https://www.npr.org/2020/01/26/799629311/london-museum-explores-5-centuries-of-pregnancy-portraits </a></p><div><p style="margin-left: 1cm; text-indent: -1cm;">Mikhaila, Ninya, and Jane Malcolm-Davies. <i>The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th-Century Dress</i>. Costume and Fashion Press, 2015. </p><div><p style="margin-left: 1cm; text-indent: -1cm;">Arnold, Janet. <i>Patterns of Fashion 3: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C1560-1620</i>. Drama Book Publishers, 1985. </p><div></div><p><a class="ydp624bd892yiv9639314317enhancr_card_5378497861" href="https://margospatterns.com/pages/free-patterns?_pos=2&_sid=527309e10&_ss=r" rel="nofollow" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Margo Anderson Free Partlet Pattern - Free Patterns</a></p></div></div></div></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><a href="https://artuk.org/discover/stories/portraying-pregnancy-from-prehistoric-art-to-jacobean-portraiture" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><br /></a></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-40958723642855692542023-01-14T19:22:00.003-06:002023-01-18T12:31:00.242-06:00Organizing my Sewing Patterns<p style="text-align: center;"> </p><p style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNGOT0858kalvfr_FbH02cSNFVghSAHLED9L6uLGUYyHN4-XUYb532gKONdJpt4ydiy6EaS7ygojfSucCdRwdZ4TrTSGqNDZeL78YEHJ-B510QOHtA7pejpQB2wGR5G9aiFpbUc8IZKzQmCCVmVfd-GhCsohGspVaYJ-pEJJrv2x1Fa-LL4EDi0ZBe/s320/320binders.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNGOT0858kalvfr_FbH02cSNFVghSAHLED9L6uLGUYyHN4-XUYb532gKONdJpt4ydiy6EaS7ygojfSucCdRwdZ4TrTSGqNDZeL78YEHJ-B510QOHtA7pejpQB2wGR5G9aiFpbUc8IZKzQmCCVmVfd-GhCsohGspVaYJ-pEJJrv2x1Fa-LL4EDi0ZBe/s1600/320binders.jpg" width="320" /></a><br /></p><p>The more I make my own patterns, either from drafting, draping, or sizing up originals from period magazines, the more I realized I needed a good way to store them. I used to put my patterns in big manila envelopes, but they often got jumbled or lost, and I wanted some way to keep them all together in one place where they'd be easy to find.</p><p>My new plan was to use heavy-duty 5-inch binders, and keep the pattern pieces in their own clear sleeve protector. The problem with that is that sleeve protectors are usually open at the top to let you slide pages in and out easily, and I wanted to keep everything secure. Then I discovered that they<i> </i>make binder pockets with zippers! </p><p>Neither the 5-inch binders nor the zippered pockets were cheap, so I decided to start with one binder and see how well my plan worked before ordering more.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfnodxXTUsu54cU1nZV0MHFH_G-D3CPxCEQUq6r9EUSWDBiJXfU7aruHUWyGiBZG12ASyqFOMv6zBtmEGQZduu-1cdmmexBtPGyo9zKN1kpcoWMlOiZVxgCJeTTY9vwY9oWg90M1A4V6OPQ7INPpPOWvKFfsCNeEN1DiCveo4cThadUwe7-JqCa-Dr/s4032/IMG_1396.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfnodxXTUsu54cU1nZV0MHFH_G-D3CPxCEQUq6r9EUSWDBiJXfU7aruHUWyGiBZG12ASyqFOMv6zBtmEGQZduu-1cdmmexBtPGyo9zKN1kpcoWMlOiZVxgCJeTTY9vwY9oWg90M1A4V6OPQ7INPpPOWvKFfsCNeEN1DiCveo4cThadUwe7-JqCa-Dr/w400-h300/IMG_1396.JPG" width="400" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>5-inch binder, Office Depot, $35<br />Zip storage sheet protector, Staples, $9 for a pack of 10 pages</i></span><br /></p><p>Since I have so many self-drafted patterns from books or original magazines, I made a fancy cover page for all of them so I could see all the info about the pattern at a glance.<br /></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjjubI83dGuC9FgxBTgzfGaA0TFlnqYKe1PVf1aESgZ8chpakzmaWGVyGT832tYy3nmr2gTZtFffGaa0s-HIRyHKrNpGC5_k1H7yNOhFJMH1P7HEpwB38881ZaVcSOETanBA6CMWiGKp8FkNv0AZOJxInvtSTQSNkA2GfylNqk1NWu2FGJ7bNVmayC8=s3300" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3300" data-original-width="2400" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjjubI83dGuC9FgxBTgzfGaA0TFlnqYKe1PVf1aESgZ8chpakzmaWGVyGT832tYy3nmr2gTZtFffGaa0s-HIRyHKrNpGC5_k1H7yNOhFJMH1P7HEpwB38881ZaVcSOETanBA6CMWiGKp8FkNv0AZOJxInvtSTQSNkA2GfylNqk1NWu2FGJ7bNVmayC8=w291-h400" width="291" /></a></div><p>The pattern pieces went into the zipper pocket, and the cover page went on top so I <br />could see all the info.</p><p>My original plan had been to make a separate binder for each garment
type - corsets, petticoats, bodices, etc. But after the expense of just
purchasing enough supplies for one binder, I decided to just keep everything in
one and expand as needed. </p><p>It worked great! I went ahead and put in the rest of my patterns.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oZwCZh1B75k5mJtlA_lodsAnKntRuoMm8PhcdqfgnyKAT_eQxbJ9Fs1pnqkgA_TUE3LPzT1WXZ0rov4AnW2dT0J11__bawUpIGd9Eigj25_P__5swFw1KvaDWTqc9JyMmhavBT3EKvF-KQzqz3EA3WWQRWEtERqCYuX9beNN4XLsXu0ZFmqMY_NG/s4032/IMG_E1406.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oZwCZh1B75k5mJtlA_lodsAnKntRuoMm8PhcdqfgnyKAT_eQxbJ9Fs1pnqkgA_TUE3LPzT1WXZ0rov4AnW2dT0J11__bawUpIGd9Eigj25_P__5swFw1KvaDWTqc9JyMmhavBT3EKvF-KQzqz3EA3WWQRWEtERqCYuX9beNN4XLsXu0ZFmqMY_NG/w400-h300/IMG_E1406.JPG" width="400" /></a></p><p>For printed e-patterns, they went into a pocket with their instructions and their original cover image.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBMc2zVyGWln154T_J0RV5zIeSfyfSKBJ0EIyJRq814CuSrWtTGQUOKDiNSGrr-8PmWlKTdcv6sjzgHGcEXGBPDl3noPa3qeiQHIbglnr6_PquQoLDwNZmkrHrX-ZkoQpmtGzDq5Ki3k_j1AqnAcCxakynXIQ_DBd00weRgAuoC8NX2sSWe6lDX_S/s4032/IMG_1415.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBMc2zVyGWln154T_J0RV5zIeSfyfSKBJ0EIyJRq814CuSrWtTGQUOKDiNSGrr-8PmWlKTdcv6sjzgHGcEXGBPDl3noPa3qeiQHIbglnr6_PquQoLDwNZmkrHrX-ZkoQpmtGzDq5Ki3k_j1AqnAcCxakynXIQ_DBd00weRgAuoC8NX2sSWe6lDX_S/w400-h300/IMG_1415.JPG" width="400" /></a></p><p>The e-patterns definitely take up the majority of the room in the binder, as there are unused pieces from views I didn't use, or sizes I don't need. They're pretty chonky.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEQs7XEgGgPTM-WQT7S-TAG-p2q2t6BsTuiHwr4XIkOX4euxYlPKb18egPm2m6Omo3n58soLDhFgDfSady6azLgSBHHHXhwlOZwHKMqVc3sagQ6YWyupURAF02srbxpn1nqs51cqfO4QK03OBmb6EVWqRvVjgYmYazQ8TIAGoQXtaEbi81JBTL65m/s4032/IMG_1416.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEQs7XEgGgPTM-WQT7S-TAG-p2q2t6BsTuiHwr4XIkOX4euxYlPKb18egPm2m6Omo3n58soLDhFgDfSady6azLgSBHHHXhwlOZwHKMqVc3sagQ6YWyupURAF02srbxpn1nqs51cqfO4QK03OBmb6EVWqRvVjgYmYazQ8TIAGoQXtaEbi81JBTL65m/w400-h300/IMG_1416.JPG" width="400" /></a></p><p>After a while, they ate up all the space in the first binder, so they eventually got their own. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYbJqIWTisSZ0qeg_ct1T7JUvJMD9nruKXQUNxji1iKuD8td7fFceeNnWlQUzGkrjD5D3x4l-ka3erMVdsHroD_0HTiXYQz6f9jWU3wXDrYufqqeRmv36xX394RzURNGZTtMFcZ0Og000wUY6XHVnOeHiUXTdGaAJEIFN2pvi8m2rLWQGYvdUQ7nbW/s4032/IMG_E1411.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYbJqIWTisSZ0qeg_ct1T7JUvJMD9nruKXQUNxji1iKuD8td7fFceeNnWlQUzGkrjD5D3x4l-ka3erMVdsHroD_0HTiXYQz6f9jWU3wXDrYufqqeRmv36xX394RzURNGZTtMFcZ0Og000wUY6XHVnOeHiUXTdGaAJEIFN2pvi8m2rLWQGYvdUQ7nbW/w300-h400/IMG_E1411.JPG" width="300" /></a> <br /></p><p>I'm really pleased with how these all turned out, and I'm glad I have my original patterns organized and ready to find. It definitely beats the system I had before, which was to throw it into an envelope and hope I don't lose track of it!</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXQ4ZMXYWWDoCszqAP13pMqIJNIcM2WoayC1XMSKTbhsG7snE8oVPLaaNAEeBSH1l3bbz-BGQpwnIVUraESghNaCksIWmsvrvtSBgE02dPDFYAuumRWKHZTVQ2JswWOPfmcevTBI6D0_6zs7OlemvzfAUb724BQV0EcuIk4jw8vyIFPJOYbxOOjLV2/s4032/IMG_1401.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXQ4ZMXYWWDoCszqAP13pMqIJNIcM2WoayC1XMSKTbhsG7snE8oVPLaaNAEeBSH1l3bbz-BGQpwnIVUraESghNaCksIWmsvrvtSBgE02dPDFYAuumRWKHZTVQ2JswWOPfmcevTBI6D0_6zs7OlemvzfAUb724BQV0EcuIk4jw8vyIFPJOYbxOOjLV2/w300-h400/IMG_1401.JPG" width="300" /></a></p><p></p><p></p><p>Zip pocket sheet protectors: <a href="https://www.staples.com/Staples-Side-Load-Three-Ring-Mediumweight-PVC-Free-Zip-Closure-Sheet-Protectors-Clear-10-Pack-23259/product_951444">https://www.staples.com/Staples-Side-Load-Three-Ring-Mediumweight-PVC-Free-Zip-Closure-Sheet-Protectors-Clear-10-Pack-23259/product_951444</a></p><p>5-inch binder: <a href="https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/213031/Office-Depot-Brand-Heavy-Duty-View/">https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/213031/Office-Depot-Brand-Heavy-Duty-View/</a><br /></p>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-12303720666464044202023-01-12T09:16:00.009-06:002023-01-18T12:32:25.158-06:002022 in Review<p><i><b></b></i></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdQzNNKLvsrGNjvAmCsR0-JqrcNmbDFqvMSW_g5uZ-4QaAXpriJdMvwnProVr0FGueFCLJZap1hkbgzWpUuMckLTAWdfnvSBLIGCsVkZ1nweInZLjdZ2CaY4c5CUzXpsEDNYGQjka54_U7TyvBq31Q0nnPH79vMfVbHcEsrM0_Bcvk9JsZWdFEQD8/s320/yir2022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="202" data-original-width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdQzNNKLvsrGNjvAmCsR0-JqrcNmbDFqvMSW_g5uZ-4QaAXpriJdMvwnProVr0FGueFCLJZap1hkbgzWpUuMckLTAWdfnvSBLIGCsVkZ1nweInZLjdZ2CaY4c5CUzXpsEDNYGQjka54_U7TyvBq31Q0nnPH79vMfVbHcEsrM0_Bcvk9JsZWdFEQD8/s16000/yir2022.jpg" /></a></div><br />Wow, this year flew past, and the projects just never really got off the ground. I started and stalled out on many, many things. I got more than a little overwhelmed at how much work it would take to rebuild all the stuff lost in my costume wardrobe. I would start on something, an event would pop up that I wanted to go to and I'd shift gears, only to get halfway through the undergarments and realize that there was no possible way I'd finish making <i>everything</i> from the skin out in time for the event. <p></p><p>So, things languished.</p><p>But, I did manage to finish a few things. I have a couple of new Regency/1830s chemises finished, using the instructions from <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i>. I'm working on a tutorial for this kind of chemise, which should be up soon!<br /></p><p></p><p>I pulled a ton of original patterns out of the Victorian fashion magazine <i>De Gracieuse, </i>and made a natural form crinoline and trained petticoat with some of those patterns.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqBsd7Z6gQaS4LGb-kizHVvCGWcLBBuJ7XrklYgDriWS4MCwopw26TVySqUEZzKKmbuEqI7j_nHGQuGix1FWGpPSqHhi3VG7-govSoKlwKoxEJgFwrv4Kzs1VUbTDcCbz5jkT_n_9y3HjyYQ2u7SAdOeRrFRSXHWKhABq0piLen7rQOlXXiInqHLn/s1080/1878hoop1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqBsd7Z6gQaS4LGb-kizHVvCGWcLBBuJ7XrklYgDriWS4MCwopw26TVySqUEZzKKmbuEqI7j_nHGQuGix1FWGpPSqHhi3VG7-govSoKlwKoxEJgFwrv4Kzs1VUbTDcCbz5jkT_n_9y3HjyYQ2u7SAdOeRrFRSXHWKhABq0piLen7rQOlXXiInqHLn/w294-h400/1878hoop1.jpg" width="294" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGRDUDs3w6ArRMFht7SdjrLosD5QiUAWj5KI0lpu8auoFf5FdzBO0IlcK3tie6az4g0VCn2u9xTn_zQYWSCnOA-06cBuWC0FnGwQC6D3NRGHfCm3wIcEuraIBL3q1AJwM4lJ_hMg4gizXYxhKgpVUtoF9SQrU6pJ4wiPDXsS_QYluEwcFHkdNwPAm/s1080/1878hoop3.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGRDUDs3w6ArRMFht7SdjrLosD5QiUAWj5KI0lpu8auoFf5FdzBO0IlcK3tie6az4g0VCn2u9xTn_zQYWSCnOA-06cBuWC0FnGwQC6D3NRGHfCm3wIcEuraIBL3q1AJwM4lJ_hMg4gizXYxhKgpVUtoF9SQrU6pJ4wiPDXsS_QYluEwcFHkdNwPAm/w300-h400/1878hoop3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihQHEMOEW5ThGDjV3ZNyRv2OhxADCAXJvJgGS9gLybc_aNWvfXzoVIdcV_yaMYsc_GR6I_Li1dmfIgOCWy2zb0RcpuJSoMhskIinNO5NRfo4i64lbi8_pB7gXs10resdNfBHKcO1_QZGJJY-UrCQm-oq-bHRZ_rahArVy2hNl4oSzAXTAIREpB508U/s1280/1877petticoat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihQHEMOEW5ThGDjV3ZNyRv2OhxADCAXJvJgGS9gLybc_aNWvfXzoVIdcV_yaMYsc_GR6I_Li1dmfIgOCWy2zb0RcpuJSoMhskIinNO5NRfo4i64lbi8_pB7gXs10resdNfBHKcO1_QZGJJY-UrCQm-oq-bHRZ_rahArVy2hNl4oSzAXTAIREpB508U/w300-h400/1877petticoat.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Individual posts for all these items are coming, I just need to get some better pics of everything! <br /></p><p>Near the end of the year, I finally found a focus to my wardrobe rebuild by going back to the beginning of my costuming journey, the Elizabethan period. It's where I started mumbelty years ago, and going back to it just felt right somehow. </p><p>I also decided to really flesh out the research I include in my blog posts from now on. Instead of just the build itself, I want to include sources, books, extants, and whatever else helped me when I was putting together the garment, so that others who are trying to research the same period will have more than just a shiny blog post about making A Thing, they'll also have signposts to other places to continue their research if they want to. So, in the future, look for a bibliography and links section at the end of my posts!</p><p>Right now I'm working on finishing my 1590s <i>pair of bodies</i> (stays), as well as my smock (chemise), petticoat, and my farthingale. I have plans to attempt a wheel farthingale in the near future. When my undies are finished, I'll be working on a 1590s embroidered waistcoat using some <a href="https://www.trulyhats.net/product/replica-blackworked-linen-fabric/" target="_blank">pre-embroidered linen from TrulyHats</a>. There will probably be a smattering of other eras sprinkled in here and there - I have an 1872 corset that's been in-progress for over a year but is nearing completion, and I have vague plans to maybe possibly go to the Francaise Dinner in DC this year - but I think I will keep my main focus in the Renaissance just to keep myself from going too crazy trying to squeeze too much in.<br /></p><p>I'll also be returning to YouTube in the new year. Yes, I know, I said I was before, but I'll be coming back on a limited release schedule, aiming for one video a month, so I can focus on getting a project done without stressing myself out.</p><p>I hope everyone had a safe and healthy 2022, and that you have a great 2023! I'll hopefully be back with another post fairly soon!<br /></p>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-9917620490842362762022-05-23T10:45:00.004-05:002022-05-23T10:46:22.278-05:00New Skirt Support Patterns! || Crinolines, Crinolettes, and Bustles<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.clusterfrock.com/p/patterns.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="295" data-original-width="413" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOOWRZzBIo6CPB6qBYPBDOx3G_M97yxe9hwv6H4WV-xDO5NSp9yoKFdgtH0-c1SsPchu1T8f_VENGmjA-jfRA5oOkm5TDqMFj80VLtUnuBlvHdCKpZDq4Uh-JryobNvxiUEa5ata85OV2xaIYDyLPlOFJoyhiwBywDTHdBkAWL1AwiiWOZA6Xk9Hd/s320/1869crinolette.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />I've been working my way through rebuilding my wardrobe, and as I've been going, I've been extracting a lot of patterns from period sources. I haven't been using all of them, but they've been sitting in my harddrive, waiting patiently to be loosed upon the world for other costumers to use. <p></p><p>So, first up, I have a batch of new skirt support patterns! There are six in this first batch, ranging from 1869 to 1884. I plan to make a few of these (and have some of them in progress right now), but some of them I pulled, and decided not to use. Hopefully, they will prove useful for someone else! I'll be posting in the future about the ones I make.<br /></p><p>All new patterns will be on the Patterns page found in the main menu, or you can <a href="http://www.clusterfrock.com/p/patterns.html" target="_blank">click here to be taken to the page</a>. Happy sewing!<br /></p>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-7069461918993557782021-12-15T13:26:00.001-06:002022-05-04T11:54:15.188-05:002021 in Review<p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiV6Vhks70o4lR5a7lGnhryp8VFDolY5PN2ScP-VDeXDg3nb664DWFjxMkuEEyBck9_snLu7dtrPSdu7iEExmeMQ44fdL5YYwMfbr_LjMb_LOADOCQ-kIlPkyoovOx9SVZPSx_Q4LVFiTXxG6uGiDq-xHzMTTdL7SehzStsoKPs75P2gzA6a9LhLyDn=s480" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="270" data-original-width="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiV6Vhks70o4lR5a7lGnhryp8VFDolY5PN2ScP-VDeXDg3nb664DWFjxMkuEEyBck9_snLu7dtrPSdu7iEExmeMQ44fdL5YYwMfbr_LjMb_LOADOCQ-kIlPkyoovOx9SVZPSx_Q4LVFiTXxG6uGiDq-xHzMTTdL7SehzStsoKPs75P2gzA6a9LhLyDn=s16000" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;">Well, what an absolute dumpster fire of a year!</p><p style="text-align: left;">I wish I had a lot of awesome projects to show you all, but this year was just awful. In March, our neighbor set fire to our apartment building, and we lost everything. My beloved cat, Pepper, who was a regular feature on this blog and on the YouTube channel, and who had been my constant companion for 13 years, was also lost in the fire. </p><p style="text-align: left;">When the building collapsed in the fire, it landed right on our car, so we lost that, too. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Then my husband lost his job. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">We lived on a friend's couch for a while, and then finally moved into a new apartment. I tried to get back into a sewing groove, but despite a few spurts of half-hearted stitchery, I never actually finished anything. The new apartment is Not Great, with nosy management and lots of bugs, so we've sort of just been holding our breath and waiting for the lease to run out.</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p style="text-align: left;">As I write this, we have two months left on the lease, and then we need to move again. I'm not sure if that will end this feeling of being in perpetual limbo, but I hope it does.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Over the summer we lost my aunt to cancer, and my grandmother passed at 96 after breaking her hip. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">The good things of this year - we did save our three other cats, and neither of us were hurt in the fire. If it had been set while we were asleep, that could have been a very different story.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The costuming community also absolutely came to our rescue when we needed help. People shared our GoFundMe and donated furniture and home goods, and I don't know what we would have done without it. Everyone was truly amazing, and I still tear up thinking about how much the community swooped in and helped us. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Our current apartment complex is home to a large feral cat colony, of which I have become Cat Mom. I am overrun with kittens, and I'm loving every second of it.<i> <br /></i></p><p style="text-align: left;">We adopted a one of those kittens a few weeks ago, the only survivor of his litter, and he's an orange ball of excitement who loves cuddles and is a complete joy. He hasn't been introduced to fabric yet, but I'm fairly sure he's going to eviscerate any project I'm working on because he's at that stage were all things <i>must</i> be attacked! </p><p style="text-align: left;">My husband did eventually find a new job, and one that is less stressful and pays more than his last, which is pretty amazing. He also gets to work remotely, so we don't have to worry about getting a second car or coordinating our commutes, which is such a life-saver. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">I'm looking forward to the New Year being a real new beginning - new place to live, new projects to dive into, and a fresh start after a year of so much suck. I'm "relaunching" the YouTube channel after the new year, and will be attempting to post on a weekly basis again. I'm really excited about getting back into video making, as I love the process of filming and editing just as much as I love sewing. </p><p style="text-align: left;">I'm also planning to really pay attention to blogging again. I find myself reading a bunch of old sewing blogs during my downtime, and miss having new content to read from all the blogs I used to follow. Blogs were, and are, such a valuable resource. I learned so much in my early sewing days (and heck, I still do!) from reading other people's dress diaries. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">I have great hopes for 2022. I just hope the universe is on my side! <br /></p>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-85794236474451055372021-10-26T15:16:00.001-05:002022-05-04T11:55:25.422-05:00Distracting Myself with 100+ Corset Patterns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/p/de-gracieuse-corset-patterns-page-1.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="394" data-original-width="844" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYM_4uANT6qyihMPmwHoln3l8JFMc6dT2rSGRHdCyYLnBQBcL_UhAPiSFj9_WERj8P2otcsookIxQmrhBXf2Lb4m1q_aXWqckt9rDv8sCLA0XtLGPDNimxFkr-5VaxgKOMZtpHCeZ04A/w640-h298/corsetbanner+%25283%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>So you know how I had planned to dedicate a month to rebuilding my Victorian undies wardrobe? Yeah, that didn't quite happen according to plan. I did <i>start</i> a few pieces, but I got a little overwhelmed, started looking up patterns in <i>De Gracieuse</i>, and then I got <i>really </i>distracted by tracing out patterns from the magazine that I wanted to use.</p><p>And while I was browsing through those hundreds of issues of high Victorian eye candy, I somehow went from "I'm going to pull out some of these corset patterns to use for this project" to "I'm going to pull out ALL of the corset patterns so I don't have to search for them again in the future!"</p><p>So, for the past few weeks, that's what I've been doing. For six or so hours each day, I've searched every issue for patterns, scaled them up, and traced them out neatly in Photoshop. </p><p>If you're unfamiliar with <i>De Gracieuse</i>, it's a Dutch-language magazine that was published from 1862 to 1936. It was Holland's version of <i>La Mode Illustree</i>, and is full of wonderful fashion illustrations and plates, and best of all, every issue had a pattern supplement where you could find the patterns to some of the illustrated goodies.</p><p>It wasn't always easy to pick out the patterns. Sometimes the pattern supplements weren't scanned in with the rest of the issue's pages. Sometimes I'd find a really awesome looking corset, only to find that there wasn't a pattern offered for it. The pattern supplements in the 1930s are a hot mess, reusing numbers for different patterns so I'd get halfway through tracing something out, only to realize that this was absolutely not a corset pattern. </p><p>In the end, I wound up with <b>116 patterns</b> from 1866 - 1931. It would have been twice as many if I'd included the children's corsets, as there were just as many offered for kids as there were for adults!</p><p>So, if you're in need of a Victorian or Edwardian or Vintage corset pattern, you can find them up in the <b>Patterns</b> section above, or just click on that nifty banner above!<br /></p>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-65077998547457826102021-08-30T13:43:00.003-05:002021-08-30T13:49:29.001-05:00Planning a Month of Making Victorian Undies<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDxLWiez_8SY9SoDgvXL8XEtpgmukS8Co9NEjE3VFHFY3p00y5VxFsWKEgLBaqFW2gNbqQZ4fwoeYfqXYxkBPyt15oiLzVERfmf8egmu4vx7EZQDVe0ADw7asx0OTRd_DFm7LwW3zjzQw/s612/crinolinedrawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="596" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDxLWiez_8SY9SoDgvXL8XEtpgmukS8Co9NEjE3VFHFY3p00y5VxFsWKEgLBaqFW2gNbqQZ4fwoeYfqXYxkBPyt15oiLzVERfmf8egmu4vx7EZQDVe0ADw7asx0OTRd_DFm7LwW3zjzQw/s320/crinolinedrawing.jpg" width="312" /></a></div><br />I've struggled through two new dress projects since the fire (in case you didn't know, my apartment building burned down in March), and let me tell you, it was not fun trying to fit those things without the proper undergarments. Thankfully, one was fairly "free" as far as sizing, being a loose-fitting shirtwaist and a skirt, but the other could definitely have benefited from having the right sort of stays to fit the bodice over.<p></p><p>So, since I have no costume events on the horizon, but a boat load of projects that I <i>want </i>to make, I decided to dedicate the entire month of September to restocking my poor undies wardrobe. I'm not exaggerating when I say I need everything - I had all my skirt supports, petticoats, corsets, stays, chemises, drawers, <i>everything</i>, in the apartment, and they all went up in smoke.</p><p><b>The Plan - </b></p><p>I'm going to focus only on Victorian-era stuff at the moment. In the future, I'll need to make new 18th Century and Elizabethan stuff, but that isn't as pressing at the moment. And the list of things I need for 19th century stuff is monumental -</p><p>Corded petticoat w/ two petticoats to go over it<br />Crinoline w/two petticoats to go over it<br />Crinolette w/two petticoats (one ruffled and one plain)<br />Lobstertail bustle w/two petticoats (a rufflebutt and a plain)<br />Low hoops for natural form <br />A well-structured natural form petticoat w/detachable balayeuse <br />1890s black taffeta petticoat<br />1890s aqua petticoat<br />Daytime chemises<br />Evening chemises<br />Mid-late Victorian drawers<br />1830s-40s drawers<br />1830s-40s stays<br />1850s corset<br />Early 1870s corset<br />Long-line 1870s-80s corset for natural form<br />1890s corset<br />1910s corset<br />Corset covers for each of above<br />1905 ruffled corset cover<br />Modesty petticoat for under skirt supports<br />1830s/40s bustle <br />1830s sleeve supports<br />1830s pockets<br /></p><p>It is a mighty list. And I'm not planning to just make simple stuff, because <i>of course I'm not</i>. I have different embroidery and flossing schemes for each corset. I want to add tucks and lace to each petticoat. Maybe I'll embroider the chemises and add inset lace to the drawers. The 1890s aqua petticoat is a copy of an extant that is just covered in embellishments. Everything will just be <i>more.</i><br /></p><p>So yeah, not making this easy on myself. </p><p>To make things as logical as possible, I decided it made the most sense to go in chronological order. </p>In the next few weeks, I <i>should</i> be posting an entry for each time period that I work on, detailing all the goodies that I've made, as well as resources for patterns and such. <br />Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-59841115030713006502021-07-30T13:15:00.001-05:002022-05-04T11:55:41.650-05:00Some Costume Love for Dr. Quinn Medicine Woman<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When I was a kid in the '90s I watched <i>Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman</i> pretty religiously. It was a program my parents approved of, it was fun to watch, and, best of all, there were The Boston Episodes. The Boston episodes didn't necessarily happen in Boston exclusively, but every once in a while, Dr. Quinn and family would travel to the northeast and the family would get to wear their fancy clothes and go to the opera and balls in between the usual Dr. Quinn drama.</div>
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I <i>lived</i> for these episodes. I loved the fancy dresses and the pretty houses, and the balls and dinners and other fancy shindigs. Since these were special story lines, they usually ran for several episodes, which meant even more eye candy.<br />
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Were these dresses historically accurate? No, not really. (The episodes in Colorado always skewed way more 1890s than 1860s, and even that is questionable.) But, they were actually a lot better than some of other programs out there, both then and now (looking at you, <i>White Princess</i>). And once I started really looking at the details of these Boston Episode costumes on a recent viewing, I really enjoyed what the costumer did for these fancier looks.<br />
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So, I thought I would celebrate my re-watch with a look at the pretty costumes, questionable hairstyles, and high-drama plotlines of The Boston Episodes.<br />
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<b>Where the Heart Is</b><br />
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This was the first of the Boston Episodes/Story lines. Dr. Quinn and family travel to Boston to tend to her ailing mother. While there, she meets a handsome, successful doctor who totally supports her research and skills, who falls head-over-heels in love with her and wants her to move her family permanently back to Boston, open a practice with him, and marry him. He's pretty much perfect, but Sully's all rugged and brooding and whatnot, so poor Dr. Burke gets the boot.<br />
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The season takes place over 1868-69, which should put it right in the transitional hoop/bustle period. The costumers give us a mix of more "standard" hoop styles, elliptical styles, and early transitional bustle styles.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6weE3rTtGFVpjV7I2FFq7eekWCFypTNluLZ7uWyXHexx_LvYFyfRB9HMq8zW3QLGpGVS98mZkzjAzWUsuLe0R_nyP3LshpTtjbHnVCpDAdhwJ7bqq3tplsGAl-qrdQzDvH5FFg6FPKE/s1600/16849_talldq1_122_563lo.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="463" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6weE3rTtGFVpjV7I2FFq7eekWCFypTNluLZ7uWyXHexx_LvYFyfRB9HMq8zW3QLGpGVS98mZkzjAzWUsuLe0R_nyP3LshpTtjbHnVCpDAdhwJ7bqq3tplsGAl-qrdQzDvH5FFg6FPKE/w345-h463/16849_talldq1_122_563lo.jpg" width="345" /><img height="464" src="https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcRzTnuXaT0IQL49hDxeJIEQg7y5Qsm1Wu641Q&usqp=CAU" width="305" /></a></div>
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For a good chunk of the first episode, Dr. Mike plods around Boston in her Colorado duds, before finally getting a wardrobe makeover. The first fancy dress we see her in is this electric blue evening gown with black lace panels and trim. Dr. Burke takes her and the kids out to a dinner at Les Pantalons Fancie and everyone gets upgraded clothes for it.<br />
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Next, Mike wears this red evening dress with black lace for dinner at home. It's a shame we don't get to see more of it, because the few bits we do see are really lovely.<br />
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This day dress is probably my least favorite of her Boston looks, but it's still not terrible. The hoop is even somewhat elliptical in the back, so the shape is pretty nice. She wears this outfit to go on rounds with Dr. Burke, and then to check out his new office space.<br />
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We don't get a good look at this dress, but it has some lovely embroidery on the collar and sleeves, as well as what appears to be pocket openings. I have no idea what the white part is that we see on the bodice, but I'm not a fan because it looks like she's just wearing her corset under a jacket. I don't think that's what's actually happening, but that's what it looks like.
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We get a quick glimpse of the back while she's going into the building, and we can see some bustling in the back, which is a nice touch.<br />
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Dr. Mike wears this lovely pale blue dress twice in these episodes - once when her mother is first brought home from the hospital, and later when she's writing a letter. It has a nice transitional bustle shape and this chunky lace around the neckline that somehow works. It's a frothy departure from the jewel tones she's in more often during these episodes.<br />
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Dr. Mike wears this bright red evening gown to her mother's birthday party. We have a promotional shot of this dress, so we get to see the full-length view. I confess that I hated this dress from just the promotional shot, but it's actually really pretty in the scene. I blame the lighting of the promotional shot for making her look like a tomato.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip52uLPAvlhvOj3w2pJ_JMuvsWhwhHxjze63VOO3LOupfVHXfZa6w0R9ukWnPsNupZZwJcw4WvN3hmj6vBqeI7dGZpbnGXcuGXmRj1gU4Pw6cuTDLYoXf4PsRMSZpgHnpEmfZYuUpsdWE/s1600/quinnredevening1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1016" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip52uLPAvlhvOj3w2pJ_JMuvsWhwhHxjze63VOO3LOupfVHXfZa6w0R9ukWnPsNupZZwJcw4WvN3hmj6vBqeI7dGZpbnGXcuGXmRj1gU4Pw6cuTDLYoXf4PsRMSZpgHnpEmfZYuUpsdWE/w324-h242/quinnredevening1.jpg" width="324" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieqp9sAc405BeShhf7sfp6f2TXSFNb4GC9BGmBmkIW-SXPw008AjFKkYzTHcd1EX82tnpjxzTEGsMxTtAQoasDTuDcqudd5D0elM8YzHWm5XSLb0d_A7aNI3BCyLXQos_fzHsbSDGdHOM/s1600/quinnredevening2.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="765" data-original-width="1007" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieqp9sAc405BeShhf7sfp6f2TXSFNb4GC9BGmBmkIW-SXPw008AjFKkYzTHcd1EX82tnpjxzTEGsMxTtAQoasDTuDcqudd5D0elM8YzHWm5XSLb0d_A7aNI3BCyLXQos_fzHsbSDGdHOM/s320/quinnredevening2.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKTS-nqv0yoXe9SDRGYCeWKK9WK1BiJtsTUWh3_yJx-9ZhyayKFGXz8Vka26ytqXONFbUXVxLiugdA8hYxbZxz57YawNEEs-mSS1zFkyQJcVIhM31v6kcikP5Bu68tDkj07mxhaOqNZ1k/s1600/quinnredevening3.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="993" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKTS-nqv0yoXe9SDRGYCeWKK9WK1BiJtsTUWh3_yJx-9ZhyayKFGXz8Vka26ytqXONFbUXVxLiugdA8hYxbZxz57YawNEEs-mSS1zFkyQJcVIhM31v6kcikP5Bu68tDkj07mxhaOqNZ1k/s320/quinnredevening3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can see in the bottom image that the dress has more of the late-60s/early-70s transitional style, with the full hoop combined with the bustle back (it's what's known as a <span style="color: #45818e;"><b><a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/214168" target="_blank">crinolette</a></b></span>, and they look wacky, but give a nice silhouette.) It looks very pretty while dancing, and we get a glimpse of how the back is styled.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhu28ftd9g7LRoyjQHduEh8TBhwLyumO_XOchiPbOmwRXyqlQGqop7MCI-cd3dYinqCM8pi0pPlOxdGRFki7lQGMf9dLkSQ-vYgthjdNInk9PvH7sHrhyphenhyphendSZxbmnGL2Fsvk23mWGcDOUY/s1600/quinnbw2.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="376" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhu28ftd9g7LRoyjQHduEh8TBhwLyumO_XOchiPbOmwRXyqlQGqop7MCI-cd3dYinqCM8pi0pPlOxdGRFki7lQGMf9dLkSQ-vYgthjdNInk9PvH7sHrhyphenhyphendSZxbmnGL2Fsvk23mWGcDOUY/s400/quinnbw2.jpg" width="251" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbge5OG9fetYELaFXkyKVQuO2asaSg43JXDG1K39dVaeWWCzyd5qy3g36qLeFZp8nith1N99pUXzSVcs-RzmAQMuvhscOQSepnXO9OfiwlGelv24TyI0iuKA8KgusBfEsCXqE262SOyLY/s1600/quinnbw1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="1013" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbge5OG9fetYELaFXkyKVQuO2asaSg43JXDG1K39dVaeWWCzyd5qy3g36qLeFZp8nith1N99pUXzSVcs-RzmAQMuvhscOQSepnXO9OfiwlGelv24TyI0iuKA8KgusBfEsCXqE262SOyLY/s320/quinnbw1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sully takes Dr. Quinn out to dinner. We get a promotional pic of this dress, too, so we get to see it full-length. I remember this color combo of black lace, over a white underlayer, being super popular in the 90s, and that lace overlay on the skirt, especially, screams 1990s to me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtzme8xs-xhGPW6caY7ouIXoS6sCjrzRTb__AMlaTJrKxsfRhHRgstTVnATuH2lRe2e5TQ38LG60w5EnRybFFsqpsbJU3BmTYLFNilqr_2lTUni57M_072cwLY13cFQLWo-0_Nj0S6d_o/s1600/quinnopera1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1017" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtzme8xs-xhGPW6caY7ouIXoS6sCjrzRTb__AMlaTJrKxsfRhHRgstTVnATuH2lRe2e5TQ38LG60w5EnRybFFsqpsbJU3BmTYLFNilqr_2lTUni57M_072cwLY13cFQLWo-0_Nj0S6d_o/s320/quinnopera1.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtSM_NfOQXroiEu1vVSsFk0Rfu42uRf8oxnvGLp2CB4gUndHEci73nWVGy4j-Qn3Luq1l8OF_exM1DEzzS8vdFqVRpd166rHEu-XbGlzcO-aB6IDQuVEhemJ_YALimoSeVVcwnSoSyXSU/s1600/quinnopera2.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="1013" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtSM_NfOQXroiEu1vVSsFk0Rfu42uRf8oxnvGLp2CB4gUndHEci73nWVGy4j-Qn3Luq1l8OF_exM1DEzzS8vdFqVRpd166rHEu-XbGlzcO-aB6IDQuVEhemJ_YALimoSeVVcwnSoSyXSU/s320/quinnopera2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sully also takes her to the opera. She wears a black natural form dinner gown, which is a total departure from the rest of the looks, and totally wrong for the 1868-69 date, because we are several years off the mark for natural form fashions. But, this dress is gorgeous. It's hard to see in the photos, but it is absolutely <i>dripping </i>with sparkly beads. I'm sure it's spectacular in person. I'm fairly sure this dress was reused on an extra in the episode <i>The Washington Affair, </i>but I couldn't get a good screen grab of it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOp0WqU43iMwyiSG9lmJ7GVnN8Pfiu7ppSIiuE2AJLaMskf1AakBpp-qnQ7QyFwxpwKKktPER1Ut64NhplfOZavXICYvcWG-Tnn7U1Ri27IqUzehPZ7nPxsJrNav8BgXH2Bj8Ee77NeU8/s1600/quinndinner1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="703" data-original-width="1015" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOp0WqU43iMwyiSG9lmJ7GVnN8Pfiu7ppSIiuE2AJLaMskf1AakBpp-qnQ7QyFwxpwKKktPER1Ut64NhplfOZavXICYvcWG-Tnn7U1Ri27IqUzehPZ7nPxsJrNav8BgXH2Bj8Ee77NeU8/w330-h227/quinndinner1.jpg" width="330" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHjo4Rvg4QbScNotSEg0nIBqVz4iXsVlKEBGtiUxjEkWbXpj-tC44eX6QEdWHrzTUWqs-PI0gY_D4t2Tu9GEelPICrCLWRMViNPVUh9-JlvlVAxHwEZC58w2y9CKQfAgKJDGyxTZ_grRM/s1600/quinndinner2.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="755" data-original-width="1014" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHjo4Rvg4QbScNotSEg0nIBqVz4iXsVlKEBGtiUxjEkWbXpj-tC44eX6QEdWHrzTUWqs-PI0gY_D4t2Tu9GEelPICrCLWRMViNPVUh9-JlvlVAxHwEZC58w2y9CKQfAgKJDGyxTZ_grRM/w308-h228/quinndinner2.jpg" width="308" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCwhi_ShS33Vkhqy-FbDRFk_2UtXjJMz86xzS9x79Dzpke35QXKiqFO5zcni2HHqbD7_fjIjIDvwdUuMgSQKaaqxCXBo8B1SpEUE8rEHcExMvdn8MAr_oWp0wtKYULjmPPXwKTqGI_J18/s1600/quinndinner3.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1016" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCwhi_ShS33Vkhqy-FbDRFk_2UtXjJMz86xzS9x79Dzpke35QXKiqFO5zcni2HHqbD7_fjIjIDvwdUuMgSQKaaqxCXBo8B1SpEUE8rEHcExMvdn8MAr_oWp0wtKYULjmPPXwKTqGI_J18/s320/quinndinner3.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCdhxLb7YXe5i-Crs11jtWQO9KMRLwNf5XGtYL423cTCMxpFC3oPb8vAy7X1MY-0t763gUHI2n9PxClLe39CoKAgW2SSwghp_gIsc6nuKaU3s-0tzzf8qKXyRS9ypGBDYyTRiyHaNtKo/s1600/quinndinner4.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="765" data-original-width="1019" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCdhxLb7YXe5i-Crs11jtWQO9KMRLwNf5XGtYL423cTCMxpFC3oPb8vAy7X1MY-0t763gUHI2n9PxClLe39CoKAgW2SSwghp_gIsc6nuKaU3s-0tzzf8qKXyRS9ypGBDYyTRiyHaNtKo/s320/quinndinner4.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLwjeellWJeyiH9p_WUBcW4F14vL8tv4uDanMBfusND8-ucsh9xLFNpyZyL73rVnGLFLyDmUaH9rXiTlMSd0fJaLNj3D_LKvut-9tvwo5KtgynRISCuJM-rXLdvS1BFIC2w4FkO-8sw4/s1600/quinndinner5.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="759" data-original-width="1018" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLwjeellWJeyiH9p_WUBcW4F14vL8tv4uDanMBfusND8-ucsh9xLFNpyZyL73rVnGLFLyDmUaH9rXiTlMSd0fJaLNj3D_LKvut-9tvwo5KtgynRISCuJM-rXLdvS1BFIC2w4FkO-8sw4/w322-h240/quinndinner5.jpg" width="322" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qsDpnLFZAy0EyhwJAHv6b2dM7xXO6qxjTy2fjcPnBq9DOiGAH-iNJobHc4npXqu39rXi-4KkbI_FVJsVA3uvWpmiErD_6m6_3SZUd_o-6j2fZACf_NbpMF-0FklMiaSesybDuYI6JfA/s1600/quinndinner6.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="1009" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qsDpnLFZAy0EyhwJAHv6b2dM7xXO6qxjTy2fjcPnBq9DOiGAH-iNJobHc4npXqu39rXi-4KkbI_FVJsVA3uvWpmiErD_6m6_3SZUd_o-6j2fZACf_NbpMF-0FklMiaSesybDuYI6JfA/w320-h241/quinndinner6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Dr. Mike wears this wackadoodle dinner dress a couple of times in this episode. First she wears it to actual dinner, then she wears it again to go and break Dr. Burke's heart and turn down his proposal. There is a LOT going on with this dress, almost like they just threw the whole costume shop at it. I kind of love it.<br />
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My favorite outfit from this episode is this black/white day ensemble.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgui8JJ1Imro2PudP-4BL4ueKA9N8LxAcAjI_8bNdh_R8Uw5FN-jzAE6rL3OcxSf4uqYVU06xD3SDcIgLtEqD-jKOpp6v2W240W7E1nLz0oMgijqWa4szWmDyTs_CTy1J_rwfyoxN99xrQ/s1600/quinnlecture1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="733" data-original-width="1028" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgui8JJ1Imro2PudP-4BL4ueKA9N8LxAcAjI_8bNdh_R8Uw5FN-jzAE6rL3OcxSf4uqYVU06xD3SDcIgLtEqD-jKOpp6v2W240W7E1nLz0oMgijqWa4szWmDyTs_CTy1J_rwfyoxN99xrQ/w330-h235/quinnlecture1.jpg" width="330" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDeZ-cI-YRViIQfMCFSmgbAX_qVOsmQVGjqwE1v58QgiZt17cCG4mnIkl0jyCtf5SHKULm446kS4mFMXOKBe2fDgAi5crtSVBFP1bSi0Wo3LjcBKJyOYMJy0l13muGy3WtqyiQjm7bvUE/s1600/quinnlecture2.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="759" data-original-width="1013" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDeZ-cI-YRViIQfMCFSmgbAX_qVOsmQVGjqwE1v58QgiZt17cCG4mnIkl0jyCtf5SHKULm446kS4mFMXOKBe2fDgAi5crtSVBFP1bSi0Wo3LjcBKJyOYMJy0l13muGy3WtqyiQjm7bvUE/w314-h234/quinnlecture2.jpg" width="314" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Fc_MkABvbp9Rr2uvF629gC7uO4pzpfJMsLQP7sDS06UTxlq-hcU3ZJvZ_m6F_jkSdABDkfrDNKd8uSbV0dZ8nW7t20ZsnXJPcgLFsG8SeBZHAGf6IcDESOZQD6PQMwSbQ0nzNBKQUIk/s1600/quinnlecture3.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="1039" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Fc_MkABvbp9Rr2uvF629gC7uO4pzpfJMsLQP7sDS06UTxlq-hcU3ZJvZ_m6F_jkSdABDkfrDNKd8uSbV0dZ8nW7t20ZsnXJPcgLFsG8SeBZHAGf6IcDESOZQD6PQMwSbQ0nzNBKQUIk/w324-h237/quinnlecture3.jpg" width="324" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikpET9y8iCFu8JufhUJ76Un7wGc2R1EC_gSvDAmrLvMnScDAmpch84SWyMBAl6yQ1PcZM3M86HOkpXMaRCNNoKPRvgWJDp-kBLXo0mByVEx8j_e5uUuwtelwnOmog8cMmSjXbaVLlU6MM/s1600/quinnlecture4.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="1015" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikpET9y8iCFu8JufhUJ76Un7wGc2R1EC_gSvDAmrLvMnScDAmpch84SWyMBAl6yQ1PcZM3M86HOkpXMaRCNNoKPRvgWJDp-kBLXo0mByVEx8j_e5uUuwtelwnOmog8cMmSjXbaVLlU6MM/s320/quinnlecture4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The jacket with the soutache detailing is just stellar. In this scene she wears it with a matching skirt and a lace overskirt that's not really an overskirt. It's the lower half of THIS MONSTROSITY:<br />
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Oh Zod, it is just so awful. That huge dumb rose motif in the lace, the weird white <i>strapless </i>satin under bodice, I just can't with this thing.<br />
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We do get a better look at the actual skirt, though, and it has some soutache detailing along the bottom, as well as a pleated ruffle. The skirt is actually very lovely, but that lace thing is just atrocious.<br />
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It's that 1990s black lace over white trend again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgesTBWXWn33GK6QS9RJzkOCKkhz3LAvxu1s4LkjX-1TrEJi0h3ef0EThzXD9-oYIuK0A17SLrSwEj99klZCsL6iARxistws46De-dqDIs6ZYLdw34U-bEhrLd_ELYo_wgY2Hw32-yRfEc/s1600/quinnlecture7.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1016" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgesTBWXWn33GK6QS9RJzkOCKkhz3LAvxu1s4LkjX-1TrEJi0h3ef0EThzXD9-oYIuK0A17SLrSwEj99klZCsL6iARxistws46De-dqDIs6ZYLdw34U-bEhrLd_ELYo_wgY2Hw32-yRfEc/s320/quinnlecture7.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKm8ilZ97mkhx-e2OHj3u1vBYnnHyMiv0AyjV18O7YrHSsq7V2CGqoKZRvEAgNV9rKZxsECdvw6LMHgi0X8t5TLIf7swyk6mgHrcVHTQRgwd9wZP-gJzMp2RULiCOqqrGMGLYuzAxp-DQ/s1600/quinnlecture8.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="1017" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKm8ilZ97mkhx-e2OHj3u1vBYnnHyMiv0AyjV18O7YrHSsq7V2CGqoKZRvEAgNV9rKZxsECdvw6LMHgi0X8t5TLIf7swyk6mgHrcVHTQRgwd9wZP-gJzMp2RULiCOqqrGMGLYuzAxp-DQ/s320/quinnlecture8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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She wears the jacket and skirt again when she travels back to Colorado (why would you wear white to travel in?!) with a small bustle pad instead of a hoop. She leaves the terrible lace thing in Boston, hopefully burning to ashes like the dumpster fire it is.<br />
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Cute peplum is cute.<br />
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<b></b>
<b>The Washington Affair</b><br />
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The Washington Affair takes place in season three, putting it somewhere in 1869-70. Dr. Mike, Sully, and Cloud Dancing go to Washington to lobby for the Cheyenne, and Sully gets arrested. A LOT goes on in this episode - we find out that Sully is a former army sniper who deserted, he's sentenced to DEATH for desertion (spoiler, he lives) , there's a political plot involving some shady senators, a plot on the president's life, secret passages in the white house, and more shenanigans than you can shake a stick at.<br />
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The costumes in this episode are a mix of transitional styles and straight up bustle fashions. I would peg a good number of them around 1872-4 rather than the date that the show gives. This episode was one of the things that launched my mid-90s bustle obsession.<br />
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Unlike<i> Where the Heart Is</i>, Dr. Mike starts off this episode in her fancy duds. She wears this red travel ensemble as she leaves Colorado. It has a lovely matching hat. It's very 1880s in cut and silhouette, so a little ahead of its time for 1870.<br />
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Dr. Mike wears this electric blue dress with black lace when the train arrives in Washington, and in the following scene when speaking to the Senate. It has a great silhouette for 1870, with a massive fluffy bustle, but the standing collar and other details are questionable. Still, it's a great color. Very trendy in the 90s, but also on trend for 1870, so win-win!<br />
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The gang is invited to a reception in the Rotunda, where she wears this black and white ensemble. The 90s trend for black lace over white is BACK, BABY.<br />
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Didn't get enough black lace on a white dress yet? Here's another one! During the Rotunda reception, Mrs. Grant invites everyone to the White House for a fancy dinner, and Dr. Mike wears <i>another</i> black and white dress, this time an evening gown. The whole family is invited to stay overnight at the White House because everyone just likes each other so darned much.<br />
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This red and brown day dress is my absolute favorite dress of hers EVER. Gah, it's just so good! The attention to how the pleats lay, with just a bit of red peeking out from the underside, the colors, the matching hat, it's just all so fabulous. I <i>need </i>this dress in my closet. </p><p>And, bonus photos that popped up on a French fan forum, from some exhibit somewhere! <br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6hZc1NLrh1k-N0NRFBmha-OFKsSrZsyKcLlcFO5dXEklj8YS1yntwAM65QIDzIeOTELc7oZa_-b4j89pbTRVf643Dgw7MyNtMMx2pf2tZVx52LYfz7TFLlJnN94oyq2yD523ZyUwtI0/s960/10334410.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6hZc1NLrh1k-N0NRFBmha-OFKsSrZsyKcLlcFO5dXEklj8YS1yntwAM65QIDzIeOTELc7oZa_-b4j89pbTRVf643Dgw7MyNtMMx2pf2tZVx52LYfz7TFLlJnN94oyq2yD523ZyUwtI0/w300-h400/10334410.jpg" width="300" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0gImQ1odcoC_xPD_VppX2_Tp5alD_c28uL52eixw6lPDz_HSl2PS5tNZY58UIK8jivMMFK1O3CBTJC4uq0Sj3CMlQ8TftW9GgQ4hgZxCca4Id-kIIVxmiiEUD5fYLyo8Q6-7vRXLb2E/s960/robe_d10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0gImQ1odcoC_xPD_VppX2_Tp5alD_c28uL52eixw6lPDz_HSl2PS5tNZY58UIK8jivMMFK1O3CBTJC4uq0Sj3CMlQ8TftW9GgQ4hgZxCca4Id-kIIVxmiiEUD5fYLyo8Q6-7vRXLb2E/w300-h400/robe_d10.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN4CfdxZo3vveyz9vzmI4PaMcvethDviJvw3gvtWJ6XpQYxiToXtnPy7ggQkzmgSR1i-2EX2kysUzj_AHO2hAaO_dwRRziBZoSCPbeqL7eenXILCoRd4FV8E9G_sVmKJ4Fhqhy3k0-Vk/s960/12814310.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0oMJ3lgNURij3U8HMFlgKP06ka0aH5IS8O9VJ61vJRQ1ZSBxYun5qMcoY5zIUAYhnv2lanUW82f4qnEDkIPzQQ2oa86-70G1v6QB14pYhimjuWashwO61dOVf1oP_LlLxnDDYM4mypAI/w300-h400/12806110.jpg" width="300" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8APgQnI3xS01H5B_BcaL0eegWBj0wkuf9Brdz8BJPiChSplf9J4o5qJp9Q15l80A215q3dd2-XDNQvvON1LLCJt4AqIJIvybRoRDRyFtYRXUMUXbGE_bZbG9PkdHaVifp5pFDp2hT1TA/s960/12800310.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8APgQnI3xS01H5B_BcaL0eegWBj0wkuf9Brdz8BJPiChSplf9J4o5qJp9Q15l80A215q3dd2-XDNQvvON1LLCJt4AqIJIvybRoRDRyFtYRXUMUXbGE_bZbG9PkdHaVifp5pFDp2hT1TA/w300-h400/12800310.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN4CfdxZo3vveyz9vzmI4PaMcvethDviJvw3gvtWJ6XpQYxiToXtnPy7ggQkzmgSR1i-2EX2kysUzj_AHO2hAaO_dwRRziBZoSCPbeqL7eenXILCoRd4FV8E9G_sVmKJ4Fhqhy3k0-Vk/s960/12814310.jpg"> <img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN4CfdxZo3vveyz9vzmI4PaMcvethDviJvw3gvtWJ6XpQYxiToXtnPy7ggQkzmgSR1i-2EX2kysUzj_AHO2hAaO_dwRRziBZoSCPbeqL7eenXILCoRd4FV8E9G_sVmKJ4Fhqhy3k0-Vk/w300-h400/12814310.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>I love this stripey blue ensemble, too, and it's absolutely fabulous for 1870. The only strike against this outfit is the high collar. The costumers for the show had this tendency to put Dr. Mike in a standing collar, which wasn't really in fashion at the time, at least not in this form.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLOD6hyDA60sPyXW8-XwGvZWA6ldwRVOv3MZrhhjT6I96EFa57BobUDkR-bwUtgCsOxU7RtVOP6Jl_1sgRa05pOG_1WRI8KMFV5AQkSNzQi_vctnDF7LMPgXKjfggnOx8JCZogWCJcEsA/s1600/quinn2stripe1.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLOD6hyDA60sPyXW8-XwGvZWA6ldwRVOv3MZrhhjT6I96EFa57BobUDkR-bwUtgCsOxU7RtVOP6Jl_1sgRa05pOG_1WRI8KMFV5AQkSNzQi_vctnDF7LMPgXKjfggnOx8JCZogWCJcEsA/s320/quinn2stripe1.jpg" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyB4V02gFBlMvYIBW6w3AlE3cq36iEla6dO7vNjvTxQmLmJDMOm06XPOHkarBgForeJyNxtmccustXHl4xzITCWy9tolP5V1vHjhE2BBcBVauR86g4s_ZNwunVp-yQ8QzpF8XLZP3OsU/s1600/quinn2stripe2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyB4V02gFBlMvYIBW6w3AlE3cq36iEla6dO7vNjvTxQmLmJDMOm06XPOHkarBgForeJyNxtmccustXHl4xzITCWy9tolP5V1vHjhE2BBcBVauR86g4s_ZNwunVp-yQ8QzpF8XLZP3OsU/s320/quinn2stripe2.jpg" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iE2LJGh6PcKcoYTEOOBCmQPpRHowC4O96GFB0h6OgaWZ18M6iql0F-LLMgxOZw_waoiVzqd1uBSpLnAAxPoqzmad_WCKBIfgPHbaIzuOzkSoEhNPXngDLYGsr7EvxDdj-RDYD4ZHi6Q/s1600/quinn2stripe3.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iE2LJGh6PcKcoYTEOOBCmQPpRHowC4O96GFB0h6OgaWZ18M6iql0F-LLMgxOZw_waoiVzqd1uBSpLnAAxPoqzmad_WCKBIfgPHbaIzuOzkSoEhNPXngDLYGsr7EvxDdj-RDYD4ZHi6Q/s320/quinn2stripe3.jpg" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mHattpPI_caRKe0szC5bMwk4zopSPD4WFey2uSWKa-ksRYYkhsxximli9O5__nSDFJtWWI8Cw-9sQT_0egcXk6KtXhJ6NpzqNKRh67urlKO3lln73EWu_la2ujRuPI-e-Qtti-NS-Os/s1600/quinn2stripe4.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mHattpPI_caRKe0szC5bMwk4zopSPD4WFey2uSWKa-ksRYYkhsxximli9O5__nSDFJtWWI8Cw-9sQT_0egcXk6KtXhJ6NpzqNKRh67urlKO3lln73EWu_la2ujRuPI-e-Qtti-NS-Os/s320/quinn2stripe4.jpg" /></a>
</p><p>There's another ball at the White House, and Dr. Mike wears this
fabulous green gown. 1994 was a good year for this color, as it shows up
on the character of Madeleine in <i>Interview with a Vampire </i>in one
of my all-time favorite movie bustle gowns. The movie and the episode
premiered within only a few days of each other, so I don't think one was
a direct inspiration for the other, but the costumers were definitely
on the same wavelength.
</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpsiUZoDhfQ5vln4UYNFBjvCdxAinvoDsQtEodWdPuhfbnE-o4nLjOecAQcDutrUUMhZhOVKOCY89O_ecjwHxoDa_mFmxM5hRQGF5WI87SRBiJR8o3toBif5juxOINZKL-xwhlCNYppw/s1600/quinn2green1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="1012" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpsiUZoDhfQ5vln4UYNFBjvCdxAinvoDsQtEodWdPuhfbnE-o4nLjOecAQcDutrUUMhZhOVKOCY89O_ecjwHxoDa_mFmxM5hRQGF5WI87SRBiJR8o3toBif5juxOINZKL-xwhlCNYppw/s320/quinn2green1.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRklUxq9ZbOIlu31JoJnTicdkLv5HdCHJ-4UwWn03tfFafwNTQiNwgVHFnQvFpxMBGn3HF7qevmFqhjTKBP0uHSCo8L5RciCAXwDg83Vbhs33x55BHOTTY7sSkHmNRkuB8UhZIudzBwA/s1600/quinn2green2.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1013" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRklUxq9ZbOIlu31JoJnTicdkLv5HdCHJ-4UwWn03tfFafwNTQiNwgVHFnQvFpxMBGn3HF7qevmFqhjTKBP0uHSCo8L5RciCAXwDg83Vbhs33x55BHOTTY7sSkHmNRkuB8UhZIudzBwA/s320/quinn2green2.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrog_DCDm4KAZMFKkoqCoqgueTG9dp9eF_OXDHKljfc9in12ebDqaaiqMcyuLZIcUlESxLDENNj1_hzSe9mOmAkchD-mU16he5RSUyidsEsSWh5n7jrrVVJOA4Q5p5KJQPTs88NTNd0U/s1600/quinn2green3.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="1007" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrog_DCDm4KAZMFKkoqCoqgueTG9dp9eF_OXDHKljfc9in12ebDqaaiqMcyuLZIcUlESxLDENNj1_hzSe9mOmAkchD-mU16he5RSUyidsEsSWh5n7jrrVVJOA4Q5p5KJQPTs88NTNd0U/s320/quinn2green3.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5XvcxngT1YkYmDli87zKRZfJZzKxMv_ids9HoDJJXw5ikesPj-YrIcfLhsKqi9eis5gveVK516Osbez0B2wj4eeq4GFIoXd31-yjhvO4M5UgiFUlexh1eWL4DamZH9xCoE6uBSus0y6Y/s1600/quinn2green4.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="748" data-original-width="1013" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5XvcxngT1YkYmDli87zKRZfJZzKxMv_ids9HoDJJXw5ikesPj-YrIcfLhsKqi9eis5gveVK516Osbez0B2wj4eeq4GFIoXd31-yjhvO4M5UgiFUlexh1eWL4DamZH9xCoE6uBSus0y6Y/s320/quinn2green4.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAcF6s6Jcf-SroC_x0PB_Hjy3j7ZDelyXajC_DIOFfSYZco3B8RkP1iz9aHa1eVN9jEVIR0xeT7OyApNVvR0gMQqN-yMCac1LJby1YJUUkV_Uzd1BzDfxsifuqE_PxpqhP4d4CQOzIZA/s1600/quinn2green5.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="1009" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAcF6s6Jcf-SroC_x0PB_Hjy3j7ZDelyXajC_DIOFfSYZco3B8RkP1iz9aHa1eVN9jEVIR0xeT7OyApNVvR0gMQqN-yMCac1LJby1YJUUkV_Uzd1BzDfxsifuqE_PxpqhP4d4CQOzIZA/s320/quinn2green5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><br /></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>The Heart Within</b></div>
<b><br /></b>
<div style="text-align: left;"><i>The Heart Within</i> wasn't an episode of the series, but a TV Movie made a few years after the show ended its run. It's actually the second Dr. Quinn movie, but it's the better one, because it has the fancy dresses.<br /><br />
Dr. Quinn and family travel to Boston to attend Colleen's graduation from Harvard. Brian gets a job at the Boston Globe. Dr. Quinn's mother dies. It's a very low-key movie, definitely not the action-packed drama of The Washington Affair, but it acts as a good end cap to the series, and we get a few fabulous bustle looks out of it.</div>
<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSzNZngGbsfjgLDvvSRq7hkNwdGxP3riA1jMchSr7V4KvhH2n5GLYVbDDehSem8G6G0OmFw1NnxE71vxPIge5TT2A8VWpWELTz_1xcmLDDmEvdprYLkEP5b1dRAdqUO07bIn3lomWg3Ho/s1600/images+%252818%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="264" data-original-width="191" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSzNZngGbsfjgLDvvSRq7hkNwdGxP3riA1jMchSr7V4KvhH2n5GLYVbDDehSem8G6G0OmFw1NnxE71vxPIge5TT2A8VWpWELTz_1xcmLDDmEvdprYLkEP5b1dRAdqUO07bIn3lomWg3Ho/w233-h322/images+%252818%2529.jpg" width="233" /> <img src="https://i.servimg.com/u/f39/14/38/20/64/vlc12210.jpg" width="172" /></a>
<div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">Colleen wears one of Dr. Mike's black and white dresses from The Washington Affair, and we get a better look at all the details thanks to this promo shot! They actually did a pretty good Victorian hairstyle on her here, with minimal 90s influence. We also find out that the bodice zips up the back! Tsk, tsk. </div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuF7hbybifrFte52PHPTbPf2hfDHSt8X7ervCF_jfMFdxzuMcO4VdbyW38aFKEL9Fh54DndAsdsma_B2rfjjsbR_yJ3G9tK3vWkL5E-lb6O0Vr71bP7YgKVE83-vs-UF01v5n2EH0XN8/s1600/download+%252823%2529.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="273" data-original-width="184" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuF7hbybifrFte52PHPTbPf2hfDHSt8X7ervCF_jfMFdxzuMcO4VdbyW38aFKEL9Fh54DndAsdsma_B2rfjjsbR_yJ3G9tK3vWkL5E-lb6O0Vr71bP7YgKVE83-vs-UF01v5n2EH0XN8/w269-h400/download+%252823%2529.jpg" width="269" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynZAOb0cx8pCGilkXDRDbiRCt-CCb67cv1qMy5Faprj7gMxdxuXhSB_M6FBvyic_Y8SX5oxU2eRaqMKzXo8hs7paSp3Zg8vVNVnkgA4rtJv12UT__g7VytAdIRKhyoU6yacf3jN5cQcE/s1600/dr+quinn+medicine+woman+%25286%2529.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1566" data-original-width="1181" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynZAOb0cx8pCGilkXDRDbiRCt-CCb67cv1qMy5Faprj7gMxdxuXhSB_M6FBvyic_Y8SX5oxU2eRaqMKzXo8hs7paSp3Zg8vVNVnkgA4rtJv12UT__g7VytAdIRKhyoU6yacf3jN5cQcE/s400/dr+quinn+medicine+woman+%25286%2529.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">There was always something about this bodice that bothered me. I'm not
sure exactly what, though. The bodice wrinkles? The wonky bertha pleats?
The fact that the sleeves look like a head of cabbage? All of the
above? The bodice is much less offensive when you see the entire dress. The whole outfit is actually quite lovely! Also, early '00s hair strikes HARD here.</div><div style="text-align: center;"> <br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW6QAiNVNxQQHognJor1rs7W5fpqD_MxXw077JSMUAHTpP7ITl3IcyXfvS2dei-1pTZTMCWKA6Rkbq5jeVQMViPIMnnx-A71O2J1wYl3OTUE6dkvkyU0vvXHu4o5ugxJJ0kw-5xiKBCEo/s1600/images+%252819%2529.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="259" data-original-width="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW6QAiNVNxQQHognJor1rs7W5fpqD_MxXw077JSMUAHTpP7ITl3IcyXfvS2dei-1pTZTMCWKA6Rkbq5jeVQMViPIMnnx-A71O2J1wYl3OTUE6dkvkyU0vvXHu4o5ugxJJ0kw-5xiKBCEo/s1600/images+%252819%2529.jpg" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">The brown and red dress returns for the film. The hairstyle and sausage
curls in this promo shot look rather awkward, but in the actual scene
she wears a jaunty little matching hat and it looks much better. It's a
different hat than she wears with it in The Washington Affair, though.<br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">This. Gold. Dress. SO GOOD.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiWNdL8EyOie-DjN7P84o782fVVw_6YT-jC490RpblCPW87LXmX1PDGkN0tqQhhsrl1wznIzlz9Kxp0Q7J_OCCIN9dPeLHJ-0jRgv2wSO4QOxuhsBv0nVb7YavUjW2l0oZaF3Oogy6HVE/s934/6225633_orig.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="934" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiWNdL8EyOie-DjN7P84o782fVVw_6YT-jC490RpblCPW87LXmX1PDGkN0tqQhhsrl1wznIzlz9Kxp0Q7J_OCCIN9dPeLHJ-0jRgv2wSO4QOxuhsBv0nVb7YavUjW2l0oZaF3Oogy6HVE/w320-h274/6225633_orig.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTi78p75Kx-qB9mhEfZdQpjA7o_m64cGsuQqgzGVbqR-0ztNOhGcwmbN8l32KtKvDmFEzoxHUpA_9D5VKuXLn6FRWPt345vS_gueu7cq95yivZFumPwWdXV-brvmu8C5Lr1ubBY8loKP4/s480/hqdefault-01.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="480" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTi78p75Kx-qB9mhEfZdQpjA7o_m64cGsuQqgzGVbqR-0ztNOhGcwmbN8l32KtKvDmFEzoxHUpA_9D5VKuXLn6FRWPt345vS_gueu7cq95yivZFumPwWdXV-brvmu8C5Lr1ubBY8loKP4/w365-h274/hqdefault-01.jpg" width="365" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVgSemST6g7G0s7UuPqepyDr2CaoecnryXZGO6fnvIvH2mVryhmvi69h5wjdNm5GdVpbLHHUNE5bw0dwciVykNnGzuwrQOPfQAcziBKdaL2pPQI7cklNv_rQ6fvbFOKsqwCcMQ1cVsJoU/s226/heartwithin1.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="223" data-original-width="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVgSemST6g7G0s7UuPqepyDr2CaoecnryXZGO6fnvIvH2mVryhmvi69h5wjdNm5GdVpbLHHUNE5bw0dwciVykNnGzuwrQOPfQAcziBKdaL2pPQI7cklNv_rQ6fvbFOKsqwCcMQ1cVsJoU/s0/heartwithin1.jpg" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujhyphenhyphenObBD18SSSjbCSWPg4vf1_r3JptIIuWseBp4W4qNCrcd3sXR9LhUZRyGHD9Tw60Hkwvu8liPizTopx6ZGaaOwkyP3pW6vOx_DxW_HcPKrYqXhaRRfgMIsPnc2SVx-4ot3ELrHkpzU/s1859/3003293092_7ef418bbe6_o.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1859" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujhyphenhyphenObBD18SSSjbCSWPg4vf1_r3JptIIuWseBp4W4qNCrcd3sXR9LhUZRyGHD9Tw60Hkwvu8liPizTopx6ZGaaOwkyP3pW6vOx_DxW_HcPKrYqXhaRRfgMIsPnc2SVx-4ot3ELrHkpzU/w259-h400/3003293092_7ef418bbe6_o.jpg" width="259" /></a></div></div></div><p>Last but not least, we get some mourning attire. Is it exciting? No. But<i> full mourning isn't supposed to be.</i> You're supposed to be sufficiently grief-stricken to not want ostentatious clothing, and plain black wool dresses were pretty much universally prescribed by fashion magazines.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHW1EnV-3Qe8C3Db8xDBGOpFAGHlV6gIAW_k3AM2PtPHmDLumk7z-tVFZGP9ESyv8gOx5r_yI72hS3Eqi0ITkEwWHcyGlWY0MIyEENTb5A-MchkCmraNhdayZVudbUWQU_9dgn5qdwF48/s1839/3003293100_2da3c900d6_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1839" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHW1EnV-3Qe8C3Db8xDBGOpFAGHlV6gIAW_k3AM2PtPHmDLumk7z-tVFZGP9ESyv8gOx5r_yI72hS3Eqi0ITkEwWHcyGlWY0MIyEENTb5A-MchkCmraNhdayZVudbUWQU_9dgn5qdwF48/w418-h640/3003293100_2da3c900d6_o.jpg" width="418" /></a></div> <br />My only quibble is with the Colleen's purple hat. Purple was a half-mourning thing, so wouldn't be appropriate right after the death. Children weren't always put into mourning, so that checks out, but she does get a cute black bonnet. The boys, however, should at least be wearing black arm bands.<p></p><p>I hope you enjoyed this little trip through 90s TV with me! If you didn't catch the show when it was on TV, it's usually streaming on Prime, IMDB TV, YouTube, and occasionally HBO.<span></span><br /></p>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-1032039109523317372021-02-25T15:19:00.005-06:002021-02-25T15:35:08.492-06:002020 in Review<p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8mdAWJZMMk70rKO7WcArJe8fFzCskG2bD0bLYX_k1HBrx6OfDXZnYIz_UWZcAP29YuvdNYB_0nss3Jf9hQ1zbt76uUsuZws7kcb6MwNyBjBSU2azvMVgAr7wuVUcw7bpQvAR_0WC32M/s590/yearinreview2020%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="590" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8mdAWJZMMk70rKO7WcArJe8fFzCskG2bD0bLYX_k1HBrx6OfDXZnYIz_UWZcAP29YuvdNYB_0nss3Jf9hQ1zbt76uUsuZws7kcb6MwNyBjBSU2azvMVgAr7wuVUcw7bpQvAR_0WC32M/s16000/yearinreview2020%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></b></div><b><br /> </b><p></p><p><b>Video Recap!</b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3ffWlGeN7hE" width="560"></iframe></div><p><b> </b></p><p><b>Dresses</b><br />
</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9VXdkVkmws&t"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjG73EVbQBjgZ_fZ_ISr_9f8fwqyyH4oU9LBV6JPqKRgJ-9llIMnyeWuJ7yWT1LVxICneJ5VUP_ERMHfwA7kpD6ZyhUpTXdrcF0Fpzhmh3HqB5BAHwD79akYjA-tDKI7_1BG3p14ACgE/s0/1850splaid.png" /></a><b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwd4qqxXvHk&t"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7h5qQc6_mzAxshctNidhDFeg2QXKx7X1PrDi-Jpn8cDEvT7OEtad83YIf2rU9OoauipXCNPNuHcFJqd56ZiQ1Uqo5Qi8zzLGJL5PCbGMHWpIkBPOuzY1kRzRp5Dc5r3JXRDCuIZJGDI4/s0/blouseicon.jpg" /></a></b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rm8oCxrMqI" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYcjoVjgvGw2zy6KqDG4L7JJGqaKcTq2iUbVUMseMjm76_jw5nwQ0675x8X1BtqxvHxqzZy4WEZ8MU4C-qiJfmM0tCI-q_g9xBxUdTqUYv8yXzq4pH_QwVY1NRkIdgr3KoqNYpcq6PGM/s0/orangevelvet.jpg" /></a></div><p><b>Accessories</b><br />
</p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyzdFIxFEjM" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwcKlZ3MpGuL_ehZU0yAZLU41waAYQaOadxkHC_12aYZ6WFTyehBKcRqwaZTz-EMaGEiOTO0IqjJvVPxr58vSzFDXwUrnpL-oPtUxkluGAFe7I2aLSSk16vN665F0Sj-x8j6b4Izbdvs/s0/bonneticon2.jpg" /></a></b><b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NmS6Yee4fE" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJt9BFVUp7NdKQ3cZ8Rq8kPx1ZZ_xaU2Z6n6XVtsxjuVT_8b1HJOXecoC71jofn1U_wmhkihe9eNA0qDQN5YnURZiSmQdsJ0hwepCWjL1_8sss0Dj1DBd9Oim32VR2oQeGEH2e7ISm34/s0/bonneticon.jpg" /></a></b><b><a href="https://youtu.be/OInzzlxNAlk" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhymM7dtAWmLVnt5cUcNTjrfzWbCtG8_k6tHVbFSorhafaKbmLrcrWqM0Tdb_Z1GoPCTIhULHFGpu-rqiTvyFLKW8H_6s3AJEmQfMvoC1AHCigI58sLN1zLUegVBzZvrTXcPJqipsoRkfo/s0/tulipicon.jpg" /></a></b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSMoKfV5Gpw" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNPdIhn_e0NAEvsAm2ltuPaH3_bZWeSbd60Pq3soIvC6EzhzQO6uhMP3lUiZz54Xi7DOXlg2ENNOPR3_agL-tNylGI0z3e3LPdgVqmdP1Mx8mCCt4uNKTORaEgH-bOzhUK6iNGZPKurI/s0/bergere.jpg" /></a></p><b>Shoes</b><p>
</p><p><b></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Byg9btsrqGM" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpHJjWEEn4NSWI08S4-UC0PeaLdlq2XvAJJ__9zy244UQ41JS03CF0nxdXK4S_pCyj7WSOeg_R6NJI6NAl7plnvs-Yjlo4_9kigWsyMgNUEvBSW6VSuuLeDRiqwrdoJzDPswR7YxYKiQ/s0/burgshoes%25281%2529.png" /></a></div><p></p><p><br />
I know, I know, it's nearly March, and I'm just now doing my 2020 recap! It was definitely an eventful year, both in sewing terms and in just ~gestures around~ life. </p><p>So, for starters, a lot of those icons up there are going to lead you to their YouTube videos, and not to write-ups here on the blog! I've been on YouTube for a full year now, and it's definitely been a learning experience. I did get a bit burned out because I tried to do too much too soon - I was trying to post weekly, which meant a weekly sewing project of some kind, as well as all the editing and filming that it entailed, which is a lot for a noob. Then there was the added pressure of "CoCoVid", the online alternative to Costume College that the YT costuming community (costube) put together in July. Well, that really did me in, and I took a long break from posting.</p><p>This year, I'm taking things a bit easier. I'm posting every two weeks or so, allowing myself more time for research, sewing, and just doing...more. So, doing more by doing less. Quality over quantity.</p><p>I'm still deeply in love with the 1850s right now, so there are a lot of upcoming projects in that era. I am building my wardrobe from the inside-out, so I'm planning to include some tutorials on undies and dress pieces. I'm also going to do some video essays on Victorian life in the 1850s, which I'm deep into research on right now.</p><p>I'm also going to <i>try </i>and be better about keeping this blog updated. Even though the channel is my main focus right now, I know that <i>I </i>enjoy having a write-up with pictures to study when I'm learning something new, so I'm sure others do, too!<br /></p><p>Since there still aren't any events planned for this year, I don't really have any definite plans on what I'll be sewing this year. I have an 1850s dress in-progress right now, an 1850s wrapper up next, and the fabric for a ballgown just arrived. I have some ideas for things for the Fall, but that's still a ways away, so I'm pinning all those as a <i>maybe. </i><br /></p>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-56760253362205872892020-09-09T14:45:00.004-05:002022-05-24T16:38:13.594-05:001850s Plaid Taffeta Day Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkXC5Wqb_qtvCa_iauw6goWDTWGy81f0Ns2hlC5gOUJAaUu48JSB-l0QkabyJ3dXIaeXNMqpy3qj-AeagluXx0_MvE0WUL3cl5ai0nKjju2BzO7MMr37wtTnxlCvGXQ5ocqRQl9dlTGW0/s1368/50317875752_01a2e11541_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="1368" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkXC5Wqb_qtvCa_iauw6goWDTWGy81f0Ns2hlC5gOUJAaUu48JSB-l0QkabyJ3dXIaeXNMqpy3qj-AeagluXx0_MvE0WUL3cl5ai0nKjju2BzO7MMr37wtTnxlCvGXQ5ocqRQl9dlTGW0/w781-h520/50317875752_01a2e11541_o.jpg" width="781" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator"></div>Many moons ago, I made <u><a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2015/11/1860s-black-plaid-ballgown.html">a dress for a Civil War dance</a></u>. When I made it, I had <i>juuuuuust </i>enough fabric to squeeze out the ballgown bodice, but I had to do some creative piecing to finish the bodice, and the sleeves had to be a different fabric entirely. I used every inch of yardage that I had.<p></p><p>For years, I've been trying to find a way to make a daytime bodice to get more wear out of the skirt, because the skirt is pretty fabulous. My original plan was to make a garibaldi blouse and a black swiss waist, but I was never fully in love with the idea, so I never really got around to doing it.</p><p>Then, a fabric miracle happened! On a whim, I searched for "black plaid taffeta" on Etsy, and 5 yards of almost perfect fabric appeared! It wasn't exactly the same, but I could live with the minor differences. I bought the entire bit of yardage, since I didn't quite know what I was going to make, and I wanted enough fabric that if it didn't actually match in person, then I could still make something else with it.</p><p>When it arrived it was a great match! Since I had enough fabric to do something truly over the top, I decided to take the entire ensemble back a decade to the 1850s. The skirt was already pretty 1850s anyway, so it made sense.</p><p>I have a video up on my YouTube channel if you want to check out the making-of. <br /></p><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M9VXdkVkmws" width="560"></iframe></div><p><br />The bodice did not want to cooperate, and I ended up doing mockup after mockup trying to get the thing to fit right. Unfortunately, I didn't take any in-progress photos of the making of the bodice because I was preoccupied with filming and with the bodice being a total pain. But, I do have some great new photos of the finished dress!<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbiBDGU7mtQaBUSkCIpqjgmGMt50W1LE9eh2ULospSMWyIgK-uufkFE-nG2kEisihqdoQZGSdoQKalADVrPgI74mVVInrQzB_BMHw-l9GI4vPA2zklTmWKJc6KszHiGX-2Nf_t74Tn_8/s1368/50317692751_3984feda4e_o.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1368" data-original-width="912" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbiBDGU7mtQaBUSkCIpqjgmGMt50W1LE9eh2ULospSMWyIgK-uufkFE-nG2kEisihqdoQZGSdoQKalADVrPgI74mVVInrQzB_BMHw-l9GI4vPA2zklTmWKJc6KszHiGX-2Nf_t74Tn_8/w333-h500/50317692751_3984feda4e_o.jpg" width="333" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7d3ARo-kygo9eUlJtJKPOmaMyoDnSrqzzbrwan39ZMYYv0DnxGBm-o6kBST_c-0R0q7Il6an3S9UgOAyoCXa66Zb6TghDeHfHgn6AD1R3-0AwxL6JKw2NGOkjrY-8VfLk1c1QGnYF1A/s1368/50317025543_181f159478_o.jpg"> <img border="0" data-original-height="1368" data-original-width="912" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7d3ARo-kygo9eUlJtJKPOmaMyoDnSrqzzbrwan39ZMYYv0DnxGBm-o6kBST_c-0R0q7Il6an3S9UgOAyoCXa66Zb6TghDeHfHgn6AD1R3-0AwxL6JKw2NGOkjrY-8VfLk1c1QGnYF1A/w333-h500/50317025543_181f159478_o.jpg" width="333" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKPWwswmyAlj1o-9DtO60jxuDdXdSCfW0odKqoYI1j8Wb668bWRUL2k-tFu8JN5mtPY3hhb9F5Hb6L70hqwlXwZ5kWcFnikDcgHJuX0gruoU2F34CYqUvKVEsrao36osiIc4RvQGERlqM/s1368/50317876037_786a231116_o%25281%2529.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="1368" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKPWwswmyAlj1o-9DtO60jxuDdXdSCfW0odKqoYI1j8Wb668bWRUL2k-tFu8JN5mtPY3hhb9F5Hb6L70hqwlXwZ5kWcFnikDcgHJuX0gruoU2F34CYqUvKVEsrao36osiIc4RvQGERlqM/w625-h416/50317876037_786a231116_o%25281%2529.jpg" width="625" /></a></div>Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-69066481725780239612020-03-25T09:50:00.001-05:002022-05-24T16:38:26.683-05:001895 Red and White Plaid Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Qxzar0MjdxkZq0RslBBdSrCMg7CcTteuSGH5SYNU3S_HTUs4MvXs-rbgAh2KII2FvVCa2UTw2wRO5fIVoqpFYVDnhMxbGnUGVbwOwqgfdscWshY_dngkwcAjUxl_Uh9DGa-8RZW38eo/s1600/rpbanner.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="412" data-original-width="554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Qxzar0MjdxkZq0RslBBdSrCMg7CcTteuSGH5SYNU3S_HTUs4MvXs-rbgAh2KII2FvVCa2UTw2wRO5fIVoqpFYVDnhMxbGnUGVbwOwqgfdscWshY_dngkwcAjUxl_Uh9DGa-8RZW38eo/s1600/rpbanner.png" /></a></div>
<br />
Man did I wrestle with this project! I first started the skirt back in September, when I was trying to put together a new outfit for the DFWCG's outing to the Kimbell's Monet exhibit. I started and abandoned a half-dozen ideas for that outing, before ditching all of them completely. The skirt for this dress was one of those abandoned projects. I thought I could do something neat with the way the plaid joined up, but it never really worked how I wanted it to, and I ended up hating it. I put the skirt away on the naughty pile, and wore something I already had to the outing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTGeOFHFxaxvQWuK0ccKbKDgXTFUNBS9pu5zg6b2AmfrMmIlPE6VGoUaFTKYdkRN7Z5KR2D-qyBnmh4YKuCJ4BKA-G-r3sGIioFm81pFV6w-_NJD4acHWuU9vOeeDd5YCjLZ4KgLm-l00/s1600/49692697212_0296b7f77a_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTGeOFHFxaxvQWuK0ccKbKDgXTFUNBS9pu5zg6b2AmfrMmIlPE6VGoUaFTKYdkRN7Z5KR2D-qyBnmh4YKuCJ4BKA-G-r3sGIioFm81pFV6w-_NJD4acHWuU9vOeeDd5YCjLZ4KgLm-l00/s400/49692697212_0296b7f77a_k.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>Patterning the skirt</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I tried on and off for <i>months</i> to get inspired enough to finish the skirt, but no matter what I came up with, I had an overwhelming sense of "meh" about it. On it's own, the skirt is just not that spectacular.<br />
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Then Liz found a Victorian Christmas luncheon and tour of homes for us to go to, and I decided that the red plaid needed to be finished, once and for all. </div>
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I tried again to get inspired - I borrowed some patterns, I looked at Pinterest, but nope. I could <i>not </i>find anything I loved. Then I flipped through my copy of <i>Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns, </i>and there, on page 115, it had been waiting for me. That big sleeved beauty got my juices flowing, and I was finally able to get to work on something that excited me.<br />
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I decided to use a red sateen for the contrasting yoke and sleeves, which
makes the dress sort of Christmas-adjacent without being <i>so </i>festive that I can't wear it for other events. It would sort of be inverse of the dress illustration, which shows plaid sleeves on a solid skirt and body.<br />
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I draped the underlayer of the bodice quickly and easily - I took it as a sign that this was the right way to go with the dress. With only a week until the event, though, I had to buckle down and really get to work. I draped the rest of the bodice the next night and cut out the fashion fabrics. <br />
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The quickest way to tackle the yoke was to have it be decorative, stitched down to the finished bodice, so I draped the yoke directly onto the bodice on the form. In the interest of time, I would stitch the yoke edge down with a zigzag, and hide the stitching with some trim. <br />
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Wednesday night, I made a quick trip to the fabric store to find trim. I didn't find anything I loved at first, but I finally came across this little cotton beading lace that was just perfect. I purchased some black ribbon to thread through it since I couldn't find a red that matched the sateen. Threading the ribbon into the trim took way longer than I expected, but I still managed to get the bodice assembled that same night.</div>
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Thursday, I drafted and cut out the sleeves and their organdy interlining. I wanted the sleeves to still be sort of drapey, but to still have support so they'd keep their shape.<br />
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In hindsight, I made the upper sleeve puff a bit too small. I drafted it directly from the book without sizing it up at all, and it's not quite as dramatic as the sleeve in the book. But, if I <i>had </i>drafted it up, I definitely wouldn't have had enough fabric for the entire sleeve, so I suppose it all worked out in the end!<br />
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With the yoke and sleeve drafted, I cut them out of their fashion fabrics. The yoke was stitched in place first, and the trim applied to the edges, before the sleeve was sewn in.<br />
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The lower sleeve part ended up slightly too short because I was running out of fabric, so I added on an inch of plaid fabric to add a little contrast, and to make it seem like it was a design choice and not a mistake. </div>
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Friday night I was sewing like mad to finish things - the skirt still needed to be hemmed, I had to install the waistband and placket, the bodice needed <i>its</i> waistband, the front opening needed a facing, I had to draft and cut out the collar, and I still had to sew on all the trim by hand. Yikes! It was 2:30AM before I threw in the towel, abandoned the plans to add a collar, and said "good enough, I can pin myself in."<br />
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When everything was said and done, I <i>loved </i>this dress! It went from my ugly duckling to one of my favorites, and even though there are some unfinished bits here and there, and the hem certainly isn't the greatest thing ever, I felt so, so pretty while I was wearing this dress. The 1890s are such a flattering decade! It hides all my jiggly parts and accentuates the good things, and I love it.<br />
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Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-59614871595537742532020-01-31T13:47:00.001-06:002020-01-31T13:47:30.316-06:00A Victorian Christmas Lunch and Tour of Historic Homes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhFbFwziygs1e4__1lY-xDYlWCdB8_BuffxMw_CIa6CBvBZhO6o-TKIwHL45Un3_tLgLC3WHyQNwUaxdoc_2Mm1jp6cnPmINR3XIIiUp4UgC0p3pZv4M6wnw4v-RXAxOc8IRD70TCZw4/s1600/lizhouse.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhFbFwziygs1e4__1lY-xDYlWCdB8_BuffxMw_CIa6CBvBZhO6o-TKIwHL45Un3_tLgLC3WHyQNwUaxdoc_2Mm1jp6cnPmINR3XIIiUp4UgC0p3pZv4M6wnw4v-RXAxOc8IRD70TCZw4/s640/lizhouse.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Back in December, my friend Liz (of <a href="https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">The Pragmatic Costumer</a>) and I were looking for some sort of holiday costume event to fill the void where our canceled trip to Dickens lived. Another local costume group came to the rescue with their annual Victorian Lunch & Gingerbread Tour of Homes!<br />
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First off, this event was fabulous, and I had an amazing time. I even finished my dress! Liz and I were both up until about 2:30 in the morning finishing our outfits, so we kept texting each other progress reports and keeping each other on track (and awake). I didn't have any closures in the dress, but I did manage to finish everything else! I eventually sat down after the event and added all the hooks and eyes, which is a milestone for me, as most of the time I would have just left it alone after the event was over!<br />
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Getting up at 7 after going to bed at 3 was NOT FUN, but we had plenty of time to dress and do hair/makeup, and we even made it to the restaurant early. We even beat the employees! Since the restaurant is an 1890s house that's been converted, it's right in the middle of a Victorian neighborhood. Right as we got out of the car, some rando who was walking down the street looked at us and said "THEY SAY IT'S HAUNTED!" Yes....okay. "I live four houses down and have never been in, but they say it's SUPER HAUNTED." Neat, cool, yeah, we just want lunch. If there were any ghosts in the dining room, I was too tired and hungry to notice.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf17t3xGnfOh16gtHVseftqi500Ek2JODY7ldUAXXDbT55BitbTd0ywQ0UHlD6l2_EUsfnj6wBIGkmQ_wVFP6wZNigePyrzecFxoZMfFAzbAMuhiH8iJc8mmKi-UXzXV9sCLs3H4w5F3E/s1600/49241389047_a2b5a9a4b9_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf17t3xGnfOh16gtHVseftqi500Ek2JODY7ldUAXXDbT55BitbTd0ywQ0UHlD6l2_EUsfnj6wBIGkmQ_wVFP6wZNigePyrzecFxoZMfFAzbAMuhiH8iJc8mmKi-UXzXV9sCLs3H4w5F3E/s320/49241389047_a2b5a9a4b9_c.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Super haunted</i></td></tr>
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We took our extra time to walk around and look at the pretty houses, and take some pics. Liz helped me get some shots for my next YouTube video, which was a huge help, and it meant that I got to see my own dress in action, which almost never happens! It was especially useful since when I got home and went over the video I took, I discovered that a lot of the times I was hitting stop when I meant to hit record, and vice versa, so I had a lot of video of people's feet, and not as much of the houses as I thought I had. -_- That's what happens when you're sleep deprived!<br />
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We had a pretty sizable group for the event. I think we had about 10 people in total, and I got to meet some new people. Lunch was good, if a bit overpriced. I had the chicken fried steak, which was very good, but not $20 good. Oh well. The company was fantastic, the conversation never lulled, and we all had plenty of laughs and good stories. <br />
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We had to go to the old courthouse to pick up the tickets for the tour, so we headed there after lunch. We picked up our tickets, spent some time taking pics and video around the old courthouse, and hanging out with the rest of the group, who has stopped in at the old ice cream shop for a cherry phosphate. <br />
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The tour started in the old courthouse, which has just undergone restoration. It was completed in 1897, and there were all sorts of fabulous details in it, like plaster moldings and original floors. They had one room, which used to be a vault, that they turned into a fireproof library/records room, which is brilliant. How many times do you hear "Oh, all the old records were lost in a fire"? We got to see all the old courtrooms and offices, and they had preserved some old painted signs on the walls behind glass, which was really neat. There were even some old bullet holes in the doors where there had been a shootout in the 20s! There was a balcony over courtroom 2 that was last used to announce the death of Bonny and Clyde - they had kept an apartment in town and were well known by the townspeople.<br />
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The first house was a bungalow from 1915. The owners didn't give us any history of the house, and it was small but comfortable. There wasn't anything hugely exciting about the house, but I did like the spine and pelvis hanging out in the back office.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXJXPjZ5UsVYhHhbi9Wc0rgZsp0TuvTHqARqyQAK0Ebm9RfXQqeBPV_vRzzsuL3oRpJQCiP4Bg6gdOLl7xJ8KYcdBjBzXc8WUI75ZnFU_veRMV37-hJhn3p5Li4Vcqgu0CDnXa-0Iimh8/s1600/49241172881_99c605ccde_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXJXPjZ5UsVYhHhbi9Wc0rgZsp0TuvTHqARqyQAK0Ebm9RfXQqeBPV_vRzzsuL3oRpJQCiP4Bg6gdOLl7xJ8KYcdBjBzXc8WUI75ZnFU_veRMV37-hJhn3p5Li4Vcqgu0CDnXa-0Iimh8/s320/49241172881_99c605ccde_c.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The second house was from 1900, and it's probably one of my favorites. The couple that owned it had been stationed in Japan for 6 years, so their house was full of Japanese antiques. They had all sorts of things from their travels displayed around the house, and it was so much the way I imagined my own someday-house to be, that it hit my particular happy place. I was mostly filming, so didn't get any pics in the house, except for some mirror selfies and this pretty Christmas decoration made from an obi. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlf8Xy5Z4E9clKzsdtZcwVXE2fF6xVrvTtz7mXERYhasdxjPqVR3RcuWcAKuHKY0Zy509Jk2Ae0_I24NG58snD8MW3zaCwZYYOmjJ1__nvO6yZOroyDikqMU-roislB39pBz0OIdPomzA/s1600/49223442256_ee649c7940_c.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlf8Xy5Z4E9clKzsdtZcwVXE2fF6xVrvTtz7mXERYhasdxjPqVR3RcuWcAKuHKY0Zy509Jk2Ae0_I24NG58snD8MW3zaCwZYYOmjJ1__nvO6yZOroyDikqMU-roislB39pBz0OIdPomzA/s320/49223442256_ee649c7940_c.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYR1ND0e90CBUq4kmAskK-U44oVj_8bWX-Q-QPye_WaWV_KFx85GtOQ-ec1gRVMRE64ZMF-VFte4Ey8fbP4CeOOJO7djRzuxEQgphucgqLmlbrg_oPu4cm3k5oo8F4DyxLACweYgDG9go/s1600/49241388957_8b95b24abe_c.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYR1ND0e90CBUq4kmAskK-U44oVj_8bWX-Q-QPye_WaWV_KFx85GtOQ-ec1gRVMRE64ZMF-VFte4Ey8fbP4CeOOJO7djRzuxEQgphucgqLmlbrg_oPu4cm3k5oo8F4DyxLACweYgDG9go/s320/49241388957_8b95b24abe_c.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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House 3 was also fabulous - it started as a four-room house in the 1850s (the house on the right was across the street and was a "twin" to the original house), was renovated and expanded to an Italianate style house in the 1870s, and in 1903 it was renovated again into a colonial revival (current house is on the left). It was gorgeous inside, with curly pine accents and fretwork, and a fabulous parlor and dining room. It was so incredibly lovely! The next two houses were smaller - a 1951 mid-century modern that was designed for the original owner by a former student of hers, and a 1920s craftsman which was small but comfy. The last house was only letting in groups of 10-12 at at time, so I think we actually spent more time standing in line than actually touring the house.</div>
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<br />
All of these houses were <i>so warm</i>. It was 70 degrees out, and with all the people and no air conditioning running, it was incredibly warm. I had a case of water in the trunk of the car, and we downed a couple of bottles during the day, but I still ended up dehydrated. <br />
<br />
At this point, Liz and I were both so exhausted that we headed out. The rest of the group had plans to go to the Christmas market afterward and get dinner, but we just had no steam left. I went home and discovered I was covered in dirt (we had been boxed in to a side street by a funeral procession, so we parked the car and walked between all the houses, which were NOT close together), so I took a nice hot shower and then crashed into bed. <br />
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I had figured that I would enjoy the event, but I didn't think it would be just as fun as it was. I'm definitely on board to do this again next year!<br />
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You can see more of the houses, the restaurant, and everyone's fabulous costumes in my video about the outing!<br />
<br />
<center>
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3CKcz744-Uw" width="560"></iframe></center>
Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-54474528128358233242019-12-29T22:23:00.000-06:002020-03-25T09:51:20.136-05:002019 in Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAenFwzn3uRIDY05_sPc042siuVu6Otol3D6oTQiGUJqUyukf47KOrvIxUbJqRDCMb4f3KMwRkcgEbOXRutTIWxM2CfAHtlF5ZK7evUEArEd7BUVpoVhZ2VYubUQaPiI2JPEJhl7ihbI/s1600/yir2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAenFwzn3uRIDY05_sPc042siuVu6Otol3D6oTQiGUJqUyukf47KOrvIxUbJqRDCMb4f3KMwRkcgEbOXRutTIWxM2CfAHtlF5ZK7evUEArEd7BUVpoVhZ2VYubUQaPiI2JPEJhl7ihbI/s640/yir2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Video Recap!</b><br />
<br />
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D6b4YIZFeWY" width="560"></iframe>
<br />
<b>Dresses</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmOKBU4DtUlGNMoPJggNR5XKqx2PvzO407_DGXMBZwLLYJECDwi7SlzzdPOuO5sboHrcb-bQhnaSfHsPUKlcf-cxLmimGpFb9Hz_2x3XEB90nN3sKE9eK0Z2xLsSphXU3ZjJETYcX938/s1600/mourningicon.png"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmOKBU4DtUlGNMoPJggNR5XKqx2PvzO407_DGXMBZwLLYJECDwi7SlzzdPOuO5sboHrcb-bQhnaSfHsPUKlcf-cxLmimGpFb9Hz_2x3XEB90nN3sKE9eK0Z2xLsSphXU3ZjJETYcX938/s1600/mourningicon.png" /></a> <a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2020/03/1895-red-and-white-plaid-dress.html"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4umSU2dD8b37Z9e1XAYEyLY0iY72sPHKeVI_xkg1Xp2GZf5Pvk_yisJ9ugYYGMrMmozJ_SoekG-u33iXlKD7n457CqwNtNNczx3blFQeFTkGsq4tAMml2xq2t0ip_2TXztTCkXWo_jRo/s1600/redplaid.png" /></a></div>
<b>Undies</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Brown 1890s petticoat</li>
<li>Blue damask stays</li>
</ul>
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Wow, I did a whole lot of nothing this year. I managed to finish a UFO pair of stays, make a new petticoat that isn't at all how I imagined it would be, and make two dresses that I'm pretty okay with. Granted, for the first 3/4 of the year, there was a complete dearth of costume events (or the funds to attend them), but the last quarter has been chock full of opportunities to play dress up, and I still managed to only make two new things. Ah, well.<br />
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The new year is upon us! As it looks now, the first part of the year is already loaded with new costume events to look forward to - there's a Victorian museum outing in January, a Regency tea in February, and an 1830s picnic in March - we're getting off to a running start!<br />
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The things that did not happen, most obviously, are the wedding stuffs. We've had to postpone our nuptials for the time being because Life Happened, namely being unceremoniously kicked out of our previous living situation and having to spend every penny of our savings, and even more money that we didn't have, getting into a new place ASAP. It has been an enormously tough year, financially and emotionally, but as the year is coming to a close things are finally starting to settle down.<br />
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The one thing that I did manage to do is launch my new YouTube channel, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZffw7tBpMYDTnQ9Fhrwp3w">ClusterFrock</a>. I'll be putting a lot of my focus into getting this new endeavor up and running, so look for event recaps, fabric shopping, and costume breakdowns to show up in video form in the near future! Of course, I'll also still be doing text write-ups of all these things, for those of us who like slack off at work and read blogs, and video sounds would totally give us away.<br />
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I almost never make my yearly goals, but I still like to list them out. Then, when I do next year's recap, I can revisit my list and see what exactly I was thinking the year would be like, and compare it to how it actually turned out. It's fun! I think.<br />
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<b>The Year of the Stash Bust. <i>No new fabrics.</i></b><br />
Fabric is expensive, y'all. Luckily, I have a literal storage unit that is packed to the gills with fabric I purchased and didn't end up using, or just bought because it was pretty and I didn't want to miss out on it. So <i>I have fabric.</i> With my mountains of textiles, I should have no problem making it through a single year without any new purchases. Allowances will only be made for $1/yd muslin for patterning efforts, and for notions. I also have a boat load of trim and lace, so no new purchases of that, either! Let the experiment commence!<br />
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<b>Make one new costume item every month.</b><br />
Shouldn't be too hard, right? I had <a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2015/01/2014-in-review.html">one year where I made 41 pieces</a>, so theoretically 12 should be a breeze. Right?<br />
<br />
<b>Make something 1920s.</b><br />
I totally loathe the 1920s, but we have a '20s themed outing to the museum for an Egyptian exhibit in the fall, so I need to make something. This may not sound like a big deal, but my dislike for this period of fashion cannot be overstated.<br />
<br />
<b>Begin embroidering stuff again.</b><br />
I've been lamenting the fact that I haven't made anything super fancy and decked out in embroidered details lately. I used to have an embroidery project by my side almost all the time, and would work on it when I was watching TV or whatever. Now I just sit and watch the TV and play Two Dots on my phone, which is not productive in any way. I have a capelet and an Elizabethan jacket already planned. We'll see what else I can squeeze into the year.Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-77503580711920469132019-05-10T09:35:00.000-05:002019-05-10T09:35:32.246-05:00A Look at my Favorite Extant Francaise Gown (c.1765)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4cfc_bX85YvyUT4rUiH1PInGdRWxyo2fYLdn8Nt2qVCEtak74yA_zQ61y4O0l3eSgvN2a1M41WHQ5CU-UiRu4dmtHEgL2A_hSIHwR5CdWxqbgvLOVL6Szelynr5wG1wrxjYrQfwT0xbU/s1600/banner.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1378" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4cfc_bX85YvyUT4rUiH1PInGdRWxyo2fYLdn8Nt2qVCEtak74yA_zQ61y4O0l3eSgvN2a1M41WHQ5CU-UiRu4dmtHEgL2A_hSIHwR5CdWxqbgvLOVL6Szelynr5wG1wrxjYrQfwT0xbU/s640/banner.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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I first came across this magnificent dress a couple of years
ago, while I was researching a gown I wanted to make. It struck me immediately
because, well, just look at it.</div>
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<o:p> </o:p>At first glance, it may not seem like anything particularly special.
There are tons of ivory gowns from the 18<sup>th</sup> century, what’s so
special about this one? The thing I initially
loved about it was the was the furbelows were patterned on the gown front. I
liked the little puffings, and the way they overlapped the wider ruched trim
and ended in little bells. It was hard to see a lot of details from the first
photo I found of the gown, but I loved it all the same, and it’s been the inspiration
for the trimming several of my own gowns.<br />
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Then, I was lucky enough to find an <a href="https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/le-dernier-cri-18th-and-19th-century-women-s-fashion/UQJiU6uhrC3sLQ">online
catalog</a> from a fashion exhibit at the Kunstgewerbemuseum, where this gown
is housed. This wonderful interactive booklet had dozens of extremely high-resolution
images of their collection, and I finally got a better look at the details of
this stunning dress.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXqePuSTCbmZGJ3CbO7bWGeLn6djuq2Xhkwskr3cIdwrjdXfT2R3dfZ-6mCwz3N9Z5b4j7kwL2qDHWitaM48VYsq22Yf0dJBTMOtXk3S9h_nNZ8pQAZIY03DHaGp7MsUpLD5aRL7V5nv4/s1600/gowncloseup.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="855" data-original-width="1142" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXqePuSTCbmZGJ3CbO7bWGeLn6djuq2Xhkwskr3cIdwrjdXfT2R3dfZ-6mCwz3N9Z5b4j7kwL2qDHWitaM48VYsq22Yf0dJBTMOtXk3S9h_nNZ8pQAZIY03DHaGp7MsUpLD5aRL7V5nv4/s640/gowncloseup.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The gown fabric is a lampas silk with a subtle woven floral
design. There are stripes of silver metal thread woven horizontally, as well as
woven silver leaves and flowers. The furbelows are all trimmed with metallic
silver lace, as are the front edges of the skirt, and the hem of the petticoat.
The bells that I initially saw on the low-res photo turned out to be pompoms of
silver lace.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_U4fpixb5pDwqTw0pcvWr9OzoGutixQnaYc-LaRLwDB6-Yw3w_wrescyPzUgUN6TdW-ABjShTivXDQtLeyFq53Fd1zhUPv6qZ0TDJ1LnE7tRKC31yvFs4Vz_WpmiiZB23ZxpIx2n0Qzk/s1600/sleeve-1768.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="926" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_U4fpixb5pDwqTw0pcvWr9OzoGutixQnaYc-LaRLwDB6-Yw3w_wrescyPzUgUN6TdW-ABjShTivXDQtLeyFq53Fd1zhUPv6qZ0TDJ1LnE7tRKC31yvFs4Vz_WpmiiZB23ZxpIx2n0Qzk/s640/sleeve-1768.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The pattern of the fabric has been carefully cut so the
subtle woven pattern runs vertically on the outside of the sleeve. (I love the
way the fabric looks like birch bark in this photo.)<o:p></o:p><br />
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In the back, the dress has a modest train, and those
fabulous Watteau pleats.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDVsr1OyHz8xBklTQu6Z98X4as8dOiWyIL6Xfo2J4n-NAVx27x7b_8e9VTHG4fMER8picTA0hr4zJEeUeYGXh__ANC8S_uj_13PlvmhANumC-0TsmD8AoBV_iWkNtt3UM9SXz25bOvL88/s1600/dressdisplay.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="625" height="572" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDVsr1OyHz8xBklTQu6Z98X4as8dOiWyIL6Xfo2J4n-NAVx27x7b_8e9VTHG4fMER8picTA0hr4zJEeUeYGXh__ANC8S_uj_13PlvmhANumC-0TsmD8AoBV_iWkNtt3UM9SXz25bOvL88/s640/dressdisplay.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tragically, the dress is behind a pillar in the online
gallery, so we don’t get a great look at it. We do a tantalizing look at a pair
of matching shoes, which unfortunately are not on the museum's website, and I haven't been able to find any better images of them anywhere online, though I swear I have seen them before. (If anyone has better images of the shoes, please let me know!)<o:p></o:p></div>
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If you want to get a closer look at the dress online, the <a href="http://www.smb-digital.de/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=895562&viewType=detailView">museum page</a> has a good description of the dress, and the <a href="https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/le-dernier-cri-18th-and-19th-century-women-s-fashion/UQJiU6uhrC3sLQ">online catalog</a> has some wonderful closeup images where you get to see a lot of detail.Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-36465132217233335502018-12-31T19:18:00.001-06:002018-12-31T19:43:07.101-06:002018 in Review<div style="text-align: left;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUlwasds8V8Xu2R7BHteTx12CydgL0AYQxv7gYTrMvQF6ORBR_zPDizkME95K6RQJnLmB1fvbW3cm1kUipJ6sEkURiqjA-YOfDLaMQ9YvOyVdH6QVWTf6Ti8zwzkvdf1gaWHP1NRoieo/s1600/yearinreview18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="374" data-original-width="656" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUlwasds8V8Xu2R7BHteTx12CydgL0AYQxv7gYTrMvQF6ORBR_zPDizkME95K6RQJnLmB1fvbW3cm1kUipJ6sEkURiqjA-YOfDLaMQ9YvOyVdH6QVWTf6Ti8zwzkvdf1gaWHP1NRoieo/s640/yearinreview18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This has been a tough year for me. I was moved around from one department to the next at work, which was hugely stressful and made my extremely depressed. I ended up being moved a grand total of 8 times during the year, and I was such a wreck most of the time that I could barely get up enough energy to make myself dinner, let alone sew anything. I managed one new dress at the beginning of the year (with two bodice options), and I wasn't super thrilled with the dress when it was all said and done, so I ended up wearing it once and then completely taking it apart. I didn't sew again until the fall, to finish a UFO, and then I made one new dress for Dickens on the Strand.My last project was finishing another UFO, but I ran out of steam during vacation and that ended up being my last contribution to this year's list of sewing accomplishments.</div>
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I'm going to try and keep my goals for next year short and general (besides my wedding stuff) so I might have more of a chance of hitting my target. After the success of my Dickens dress, (not to mention the fact that I'm settled permanently into a position at work without the threat of being moved again!) I'm totally feeling my sewing mojo coming back, so I'm hoping to get a least a few more things done than this year. I have a total 1890s vibe coming on right now, so large sleeves are definitely in my future, and my friend Liz and I have matchy-matchy 1830s gowns planned, so I'll be diving into a new era of big-sleeved goodness that I've wanted to try for a long time now. I'm still coming off the high of a successful costume event, so right now I feel like sewing all the things. Hopefully I can ride that wave all year and be super productive!</div>
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So, without further ado, the very short list of this year's projects:</div>
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<b>Dresses</b><br />
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<a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/12/an-1877-natural-form-ballgown-in.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErOM1iQb7hfXPEBps0Quk3ZO1sol1gvdHrBGlsaK3g2KFuilY3scSuya66TBPpjgfSrc540xUKn6h1klcQ6gP46GzTU6yWxcpfiCQLs5pfx7lC7UsvsxZp9b2X2PGixfHZoGlmRjwOxs/s1600/purpleicon.png" /></a> <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/02/a-turquoise-and-silver-bustle-gown-for.html"><img alt="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/02/a-turquoise-and-silver-bustle-gown-for.html" border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ZpTpTpWmEGUrEwDrgCY_vYpAnX4QJpPdXSVtQ77CxwCNpbLj00LV-qAi-1BAK1GrPRaBjUsWwefSJCVCmetP2bgwM7GdQU2lz_WuI7LmRHPio9NF_AQjFJ6vps3jkT8UUtf9p44y1k0/s1600/1872blueday.png" /></a> <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/02/a-turquoise-and-silver-bustle-gown-for.html"><img alt="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/02/a-turquoise-and-silver-bustle-gown-for.html" border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj60RPTN_gHH96mI6rgNqdlEfdAIW2eSXZSdMktC1q12QE524IizuLEnFfbCCxf58CX2x5rpZTIGMxz7R87slREzrp_T8sNMhs-p9WLlsYo93oxHhGLp0z_k3HrTuZJaL9Hq0LB4v5NVq4/s1600/1872bluenight.png" /></a></div>
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<b>Undies</b><br />
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<a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/12/an-early-natural-form-tournure-petticoat.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7_yfivU761jPHmtgN-Vs_KGD9Ec6mfaMbci4c3EmnKISTJrfaBL6RH8BkL8PbVgyNbcx71lfZGmmSm_WS6VhZ0copF5OYorE3C0HPCJZfQM4mGskxVUGpjJJN0_9ZrW9N9qdqN9LQuIA/s1600/petticoaticon.png" /></a> <a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/12/an-early-natural-form-tournure-petticoat.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4tuaFjhMIpPr5SlUgPbjlSZ9zTl1ktL494lLz-IdPyuiFMndQRBOXxKN4Akh6IyZbCI-Z_uTm0lBGdRSF-WuNUbyNSTpPyEZpDCCbEL87B5IdH45oJ_P6OfmVUTZXKtLCjI2GBY2su8c/s1600/tournureicon.png" /></a> <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/06/1872-green-embroidered-corset.html"><img alt="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/06/1872-green-embroidered-corset.html" border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJARvwzizz96lWK4hyrpNOXBF8Cnwtf2zwUFiBwRN6NdDF9uF4lB5QWVQrzzwUR8v7Vbf2qmn9kAOaf5NGta1G-dK5wvXo1weqHM-OrtisQbiOcvqm4rKJIcD9Wtq_xss3XttXPGaGANA/s1600/1872green.png" /></a></div>
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<b>Accessories</b><br />
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<a href="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/12/an-experimental-black-and-gold-brise-fan.html" target="_blank"><img alt="https://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2018/12/an-experimental-black-and-gold-brise-fan.html" border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXgYSb-FnV5A3g9G8cisM_IT2svBSrqwqUVklP4Meljos7JRHTPRLvsLUmgwrPGypgTDcLurou2grfPt1_PB-vU1gvJFkO7DSPOqXbjfgtz5D4fkFwNOqOzwIHRWPfzkLjx7hCXhceBT8/s1600/brisefan.png" /></a></div>
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<b>Goals for 2019:</b><br />
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<b>Make all my Wedding Stuff.</b><br />
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This is really my One Big Goal, because, well, I have to get it done! I've designed my dress and have my petticoat done for it, but I need a new corset and, well, pretty much everything else. As a bride, I have weight loss goals I really want to hit, so I'm going to delay working on the bodice until a couple of months before the wedding so I can slim down as much as possible before then. The skirt is the more complicated part anyway, and will take way more time, so I'm going to start work on that this summer. I also have a couple of bridesmaids dresses to make, and I can totally get those done first before I start on my own trousseau. I'll have posts about the bridesmaids stuff throughout the year, but I won't be posting about my own dress until after the wedding, so probably the end of the year closer to December.<br />
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<b>Finish more things, even if I miss getting them done for an event.</b><br />
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I have a bad habit of sewing like a crazed lunatic up until an event, and then abandoning the thing after the event is over, even if the project isn't finished yet. I have a lot of missing waistbands and items without closures because I get things just wearable enough to have for the event, and I never go back and add in those few things that would make them 100% complete. But y'all, it was amazing to have a waistband on my Dickens skirt. I need more completed garments in my life.<br />
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<b>Finish some new stuff for M. </b><br />
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A good chunk of my UFOs are stuff for M, so he has a lot of great looking stuff that just isn't done yet. I need to buckle down and work on some of his things again.<br />
<b><br />Refine my drafting and grading skills. </b><br />
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This is something that I've wanted to do for a while, but I really feel like this is the year to make it happen. I'm going to pick up some second-hand textbooks from the UNT fashion design school and really have a go at making proper patterns. I can drape stuff all day long, but drafting is a sort of weak spot.Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-34665634349665972092018-12-30T00:18:00.002-06:002022-05-24T16:39:04.252-05:00An Early Natural Form Tournure & Petticoat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bYMUwVtuFzY4nxCkWTz8MxZCldw7-3CdGk34ueDJ5XEcFNLy142-Ity65lXx0-KCTduPLBpPXC6fLvCAU8o7Zd5zJ4VzwRGIVJjBpzbUC-xG4shuNc_rkxpsOR3k_v87x1FRqOm1PPg/s1600/undiesbanner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="576" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bYMUwVtuFzY4nxCkWTz8MxZCldw7-3CdGk34ueDJ5XEcFNLy142-Ity65lXx0-KCTduPLBpPXC6fLvCAU8o7Zd5zJ4VzwRGIVJjBpzbUC-xG4shuNc_rkxpsOR3k_v87x1FRqOm1PPg/s640/undiesbanner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Whenever I dive into a new time period, I like to start from the inside out, making the foundations before I get started on any gowns. When I started getting interested in Natural Form, I knew I'd need a new set of undies, so I jumped into some Pinterest research and found a diagram of a sort of low-bustle/train support that I liked the looks of. There was also a surviving extant example that looked nearly identical.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkWYe17Ril7sKHprPZeGZPV60Z5sIQrev3ODSfPZ1jBAdr-pJ4huSRUr0vljVmvPno2ag2p4Tv8hLe3J4zdM_9jjvjjACvs2sbKEXggETIiMKMxxhUBwSOBBEaswNDh7fJvHr1ELsFpq4/s1600/40803958_1873188262762552_6255039818405773312_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="308" data-original-width="188" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkWYe17Ril7sKHprPZeGZPV60Z5sIQrev3ODSfPZ1jBAdr-pJ4huSRUr0vljVmvPno2ag2p4Tv8hLe3J4zdM_9jjvjjACvs2sbKEXggETIiMKMxxhUBwSOBBEaswNDh7fJvHr1ELsFpq4/s400/40803958_1873188262762552_6255039818405773312_n.jpg" width="244" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDZx3FaykWv4fT_rGkre-ekMMaPgjAIZTzc0zeDQcaEOokEaVn5bKIkSkEzQbFyZYItCJgDrLelghUk8y-nz0eOnElVBA5dupbKNx7EYPohyCF0lQ_nBR4XKI5S8WFJKWWOnQala1y2rM/s1600/thumbnail-by-url.json.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="401" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDZx3FaykWv4fT_rGkre-ekMMaPgjAIZTzc0zeDQcaEOokEaVn5bKIkSkEzQbFyZYItCJgDrLelghUk8y-nz0eOnElVBA5dupbKNx7EYPohyCF0lQ_nBR4XKI5S8WFJKWWOnQala1y2rM/s400/thumbnail-by-url.json.jpg" width="263" /></a></div>
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I used a cotton twill for mine, which wasn't really ideal. It ended up making the ruffles rather bulky, and the entire tournure is somewhat heavier than I would have liked.<br />
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I started with a couple of tapered panels, but found that they didn't have quite the flare I needed. I ended up adding a couple of gores to the center back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DiLOqoJU9fLkTZ1iak-jWIY1juMpV-3h3lqychFuLQIcvSDASyPu4pCRKhokdXqeSAvfzIwEdptn5fkCsw-2h8-dfIvcpIMO9zBAGaDs6lKBSVYD3XG5dQS6U-7aQ-bkggQEk0S3wrk/s1600/31540083967_2a8f35602c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DiLOqoJU9fLkTZ1iak-jWIY1juMpV-3h3lqychFuLQIcvSDASyPu4pCRKhokdXqeSAvfzIwEdptn5fkCsw-2h8-dfIvcpIMO9zBAGaDs6lKBSVYD3XG5dQS6U-7aQ-bkggQEk0S3wrk/s400/31540083967_2a8f35602c_o.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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I wanted to include all those wonderful scallops in my inspiration pieces, but I hated the thought of binding all those curves, so I opted to do a facing instead. I sew the facing on with a very, very narrow seam, about 1/4", and then when I turn facing to the inside, I don't have to clip any of the corners. When the edge is pressed, it all just flattens out smoothly, without the need for clipping.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrIw4sjwE-O0sJuVtzfHW1PTcaF63Ms38vr5aaoHbV78oAOKGwIMoMDHHy8ayQ-RuyzTmIVHOJwkTcZ2w-KgG75FTWLMxsgOUcX2MGIAdtiQxm51zvAipPklygdOn0Yo4MpS83yC3tdlE/s1600/32607316118_538e1cfd6e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrIw4sjwE-O0sJuVtzfHW1PTcaF63Ms38vr5aaoHbV78oAOKGwIMoMDHHy8ayQ-RuyzTmIVHOJwkTcZ2w-KgG75FTWLMxsgOUcX2MGIAdtiQxm51zvAipPklygdOn0Yo4MpS83yC3tdlE/s400/32607316118_538e1cfd6e_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The ruffle was a different story. I just doubled the fabric instead of using a facing on the hem, and it ended up making the ruffle really thick and heavy. I wouldn't do it the same way again. I ended up having to basically cartridge pleat the ruffle to the body of the tournure. I had to do this by hand, once the boning was already inserted and the rest of the garment was pretty much completed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj786QnjD6NRlRc-SJ_ksX5YHn-LfuLb6xgBHQCFV6gpwePgcT3qeaNbIZQ5O7NraYVigxRb0444R4F9iI_ZaFslQPkFOUoi0A4ofdr2NeNLAGLUXJz6WmxaruzXmQ7EgRqVnslHJII5jY/s1600/32607314108_78a6156d4c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj786QnjD6NRlRc-SJ_ksX5YHn-LfuLb6xgBHQCFV6gpwePgcT3qeaNbIZQ5O7NraYVigxRb0444R4F9iI_ZaFslQPkFOUoi0A4ofdr2NeNLAGLUXJz6WmxaruzXmQ7EgRqVnslHJII5jY/s400/32607314108_78a6156d4c_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I may end up making an upgraded version of this tournure in the future, as there are a lot of things I would do differently, but it definitely serves its purpose, and it does give the back of my skirts a nice big of umph without being too bustle-y.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlW1IG5b5HFPJ-I4v7okxBZ1N6_X57AjyjBQz8HLVlv-N4EleqkuVZPAnhrcE3qNqmj1Vzv2LRfQwYw6qhfGCGSdzA0MXaw2RtQP8r0MLGFYe040kr7tq18a3dR_83kyGGSaGsJy-nNdg/s1600/40998488_1873189019429143_8173564128565133312_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="619" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlW1IG5b5HFPJ-I4v7okxBZ1N6_X57AjyjBQz8HLVlv-N4EleqkuVZPAnhrcE3qNqmj1Vzv2LRfQwYw6qhfGCGSdzA0MXaw2RtQP8r0MLGFYe040kr7tq18a3dR_83kyGGSaGsJy-nNdg/s400/40998488_1873189019429143_8173564128565133312_n.jpg" width="257" /></a></div>
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I made an organdy petticoat to go over the tournure. I draped it on the mannequin and didn't use a pattern for it. It has a deep flounce at the hem, with tucks and lace detailing.<br />
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I decided to add on a ruffled, detachable train, based off the one in Grimble's <i>"Fashions of the Gilded Age". </i>I added a bit of lace to the hem of every ruffle to give it a little bit of something extra. Once all the ruffles were attached, I bound the edges with a bit of bias tape.<br />
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I used a bit of twill tape to make loops that would attach to buttons on the skirt. When the train gets dirty or ragged, I can take it off for cleaning or repairs.<br />
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So, that's it! The first of my natural form undies. I still need to make a new corset, chemise, and bloomers, but these are really the bits that I needed to get the right silhouette for my skirts. More to come!Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-17940745725367556172018-12-29T20:25:00.003-06:002022-05-24T16:38:53.944-05:00An 1877 Natural Form Ballgown in Aubergine <div class="MsoNormal">
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This is a story of a last-minute dress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But a less last-minute dress than usual.<o:p></o:p><br />
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Back at the end of summer, I had randomly come across a
great deal for a hotel in Galveston, right smack in the middle of everything
during their annual Victorian Christmas festival, <i>Dickens on the Strand</i>. I
snatched up the hotel deal and recruited my friend Liz (of <a href="https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/">The Pragmatic Costumer</a>) to go on a road trip with me.<o:p></o:p><br />
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One of the events I knew I wanted to attend was their new
Dickens Soiree, an evening shindig in the 1892 Bishop’s Palace mansion. Of
course, the original clothing plan was for something with absolutely enormous
sleeve goodness, but I couldn’t settle on any sort of specific 1890s design
that really grabbed me. I could have redone my gold evening gown, but this
event felt like it needed something new and spectacular.<o:p></o:p><br />
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I waffled.<o:p></o:p><br />
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I was planning something Natural Form for the Saturday tea,
so I concentrated on making the undies for that and spent my free time surfing
Pinterest. <o:p></o:p><br />
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I waffled some more.<o:p></o:p><br />
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Finally, I just gave in. Natural Form fashion has me firmly
in its grasp, so I just rode the waves. There was a stunning pink dress from
1877 that had wormed its way into my mind before, and I had just picked up a
bolt of deep purple taffeta that would make a fabulous evening gown. <o:p></o:p><br />
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And I was sick of working on the undies!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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I managed to get a running start on this dress, getting the
skirt entirely cut out, flatlined, hemmed, and mostly assembled in one day. I
used a cheap muslin for the flatlining.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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I should have waited to hem the skirt until after I had
added the ruffles, but I went ahead and hemmed it at this point. I ended up
going about it a little oddly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had cut
the skirt long in the front, and simply turned up the excess and tacked it to
the lining. On the train, though, I cut a facing for the hem, since turning up
that large of a hem on a rounded edge would have been a nightmare. Next time, I’m definitely just doing the facing the entire
way around. I ended up making more work for myself doing it this way.<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Once the skirt was assembled, I started adding my trims.
There are three layers of pleated ruffles at the hem of the underskirt. While
this doesn’t sound like a huge deal, each ruffle takes <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">6 hours</i> to cut out, assemble hem, pleat, and attach. After doing
all my measurements, each ruffle strip ended up being 25 feet long<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>before pleating! <o:p></o:p></div>
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It took an entire weekend of work just to get these three
ruffles attached to the skirt.</div>
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To make things easier on myself, I used a pleating board. I
set my pleats using a 1-to-2 vinegar/water mixture. This was basically the
Victorian version of chemically setting your pleats so they wouldn’t fall out,
and it works fabulously.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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The way I usually do ruffles is that I hem both of the long sides
of the ruffle and then sew it down directly to the skirt once it’s pleated, and
leave the top hem exposed since it will be covered by the ruffle above it. I
did things a little differently this time, though. After studying my antique
natural form gown, I really liked how the top edge of the pleated ruffles on it
had been encased in a band of self-fabric. I decided to do the same thing with
this gown.<br />
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So, along with cutting out the ruffle strips, I cut out the
binding strips, which were just 2-inch wide strips of the gown fabric. When I
attached the ruffles, I put the strip on top of the ruffles and sewed
everything together at once.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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I then pressed the
strip upward and turned under the raw edge before stitching it down. This gave
me a really neat, clean look.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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This also saved time in the end, since I didn’t have to hem
the top edge of the ruffle strip. I just left that edge raw since it would be
hidden by the binding.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="background: yellow; mso-highlight: yellow;"><br /></span>
<o:p>I draped the overskirt directly onto the mannequin with, honestly, not a whole lot of planning of how it would go.</o:p><br />
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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There are three sections to the overskirt. First, there is
the apron front, which has a ruffle at the hem. Underneath that is the lowest
layer, which goes from the center front all the way around to the back. This
also has a ruffle at the hem. Finally, there is the short pouf in the back,
which also has a ruffled hem. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Taking ques from my antique gown again, I left the overskirt
un-lined. I think this was a good move, since the flatlining would have poofed
out the pleats too much, and I don’t think it would have hung as nicely.</div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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This time I sewed the ruffle and strip to the overskirt hem,
wrong sides together, so that the seam was on the front of the gown. Then I
turned up the casing over the exposed hem and closed it in. This gave me a
clean edge on both the front and back of the overskirt. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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I didn’t want my overskirt moving all around on me as I wore
it, so I sewed it and the underskirt into the same waistband. The skirt opens
up at the side-back, where the front apron meets the back drapery. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Finally, I could work on the bodice. I had enlisted my
mother into helping me make a paper-tape dress forms so I would have my exact
corseted shape to work off of while draping my pattern, and it was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">such an improvement</i> over my janky stuffed
form that I had been corseting to make my gowns on. (A form with a much shorter
waist and narrower shoulders than I had, which is why some of my recent
projects had turned out fitting so weird.) I finally had something that
actually looked just like me that I could build my costumes on!</div>
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I draped my pattern in plain muslin, and then used it to cut
out my bodice and interlining. I used more plain muslin to interline the
bodice. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p>
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<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p></div>
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At the hem, I sandwiched a bit of piping between the outer
fabric and the strip I had cut to be a hem facing, and stitched it all together
at once. I turned the facing to the inside and tacked it down by hand. I did
the same along the neckline edge. </div>
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<br />
From the fashion plate, it was hard to tell exactly how the
bodice closed. Since there was a bertha on the front of the gown, I figured it
would probably be best for the bodice to close up the back in some way. I settled
on using 1/2” buttons covered in the gown fabric, but as time ticked away I
found I had run out of time to order them. I ended up doing some last-minute
hand-sewn eyelets in a color that matched the gown. This was the thing that
made this gown end up as another mad-dash end of the line project, since I was
up late the night before we left for Dickens finishing the darned things!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I stuck with the fashion plate and made short, puffed
sleeves for the gown. I had momentarily thought about leaving the bodice
sleeveless, but I really like the finished look the sleeves give it. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht221U5KvYY0jkhmOwtwcpXwabKSWlYhS20DNLFzUiyM8DVtu1EWlqBlQCdON0DkgVvmFAY6QDHIhNjeib5jcD9gKIvXEdx2iwWVTcOz9AQuu6nsZN4C8rzQbaJX7I74UXpRS1UXEQfxs/s1600/45566232365_3b58b77fdf_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht221U5KvYY0jkhmOwtwcpXwabKSWlYhS20DNLFzUiyM8DVtu1EWlqBlQCdON0DkgVvmFAY6QDHIhNjeib5jcD9gKIvXEdx2iwWVTcOz9AQuu6nsZN4C8rzQbaJX7I74UXpRS1UXEQfxs/s400/45566232365_3b58b77fdf_o.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Looking ahead to the 1890s and how those sleeves were
structured, I first made a short, close-fitting inner sleeve.<o:p></o:p> I then cut out my puffed sleeve and put that over it,
gathering it to fit the top and bottom edges. I bound the bottom edge with a
strip of taffeta, and a little bit of piping, which acted as a narrow cuff.<o:p></o:p> The entire assemblage was sewn into the bodice armhole. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Finally, I had to make the bertha. I have to confess,
berthas are my kryptonite. I can never seem to make them do exactly what I want
them to do, even when I have a pattern or tutorial with detailed, step-by-step
instructions. So, I just faked it. I used a strip of leftover pleated
material from my ruffles and pinned it to the neckline until I liked the way it
sat. I hand-sewed the pleats down so the stitches wouldn’t show.<br />
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<br /></div>
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Even though there are some elements that I didn’t have time
to get to, I am so, so happy with the way this gown turned out. I feel like
it’s my best, most complete outfit to date, and it makes me excited to tackle
new projects again. I feel like this might finally be the outfit to pull me out
of this year’s sewing rut.<br />
<br />
A<o:p>nyway, here are some more pictures of the gown in action! The first night I wore it as intended (an evening gown) for the Dickens Soiree.</o:p><br />
<o:p><br /></o:p>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikTG_QxcWN2WoV-1Wrjq95i4ps3Ji298qQhHrc8nMjPqHs64iqbI0qLeUXh_hIYhVnagFWm13smWusT5vo7Ba40eXtl9v76hUI9NJOo0QGo3kEpG0dImm6RBTvFtSpt0NZjUSpsrb3tEg/s1600/47195912_1986983091383068_1492139112566620160_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikTG_QxcWN2WoV-1Wrjq95i4ps3Ji298qQhHrc8nMjPqHs64iqbI0qLeUXh_hIYhVnagFWm13smWusT5vo7Ba40eXtl9v76hUI9NJOo0QGo3kEpG0dImm6RBTvFtSpt0NZjUSpsrb3tEg/s400/47195912_1986983091383068_1492139112566620160_n.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3has70e-cc1qywOFtpcLdg2PwyYqQk0pULDgDhJvybac0nEVO5oPFm_4zecPryPaVJ5CcaUw833sS2Yt1b_qiD4fcP_HCCJ37W0xhzPrDTNxl3HGOzCd2ylzM2oZN_ACsH7P67tCg83Y/s1600/47306317_1986982911383086_5637467501706084352_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3has70e-cc1qywOFtpcLdg2PwyYqQk0pULDgDhJvybac0nEVO5oPFm_4zecPryPaVJ5CcaUw833sS2Yt1b_qiD4fcP_HCCJ37W0xhzPrDTNxl3HGOzCd2ylzM2oZN_ACsH7P67tCg83Y/s400/47306317_1986982911383086_5637467501706084352_n.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4N04YzWcdUfwqmz_RXsDFpVSMHgJnLNLGA2xDmQy8VXdj2ZMt-QysdEqDrQj92z9kcBTJiB5BQhNNGpJB_RRurWSf6iCSj-0x4NrpUljhQYxjuBkl-FbOoWJydnhT_FkL6fXFXzaJnI/s1600/47319703_1986982851383092_1908693048414437376_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4N04YzWcdUfwqmz_RXsDFpVSMHgJnLNLGA2xDmQy8VXdj2ZMt-QysdEqDrQj92z9kcBTJiB5BQhNNGpJB_RRurWSf6iCSj-0x4NrpUljhQYxjuBkl-FbOoWJydnhT_FkL6fXFXzaJnI/s400/47319703_1986982851383092_1908693048414437376_n.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1utvTb63pZLSraOlhDs_2qvuL7IG9FxCD9ZRxSX7QrrwOfzPja6_qmDXozZomDWZGp3kyIYTv2jjzmbezjdfF7EshwrLkSyUisIyBKTNfNMWRNjiiwTu5e9AfhM2MAnFnuU5xAlU7Sw/s1600/47463186_1986983014716409_7076649719052632064_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1utvTb63pZLSraOlhDs_2qvuL7IG9FxCD9ZRxSX7QrrwOfzPja6_qmDXozZomDWZGp3kyIYTv2jjzmbezjdfF7EshwrLkSyUisIyBKTNfNMWRNjiiwTu5e9AfhM2MAnFnuU5xAlU7Sw/s400/47463186_1986983014716409_7076649719052632064_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<o:p><br /></o:p>
<o:p>The next day, I wore the gown again for the Dickens Tea, hosted by the Houston costumers group. I hadn't had the time to make the daytime bodice that I had planned on, so I wore one of my Edwardian blouses underneath the bodice.</o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEuW9XI7eiasA9_iiTo5dlZkqZxuQ7upCqb4qOdWhxS9fPbhnRlP7bRM3uc9turVi1t_o1ZUsfCLuGq2C4fiM-D74j79ZSK1g9hkDcn4lldoE34wMNYNTfRE3_InIZtLXeDyY3HvXU48/s1600/47294007_1986983158049728_3261709928221376512_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEuW9XI7eiasA9_iiTo5dlZkqZxuQ7upCqb4qOdWhxS9fPbhnRlP7bRM3uc9turVi1t_o1ZUsfCLuGq2C4fiM-D74j79ZSK1g9hkDcn4lldoE34wMNYNTfRE3_InIZtLXeDyY3HvXU48/s400/47294007_1986983158049728_3261709928221376512_n.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglxl9d88X_WkNCo7cFLQMvqnLSjgKK3AOgMRO2CqEHKw5S8PD3kAFLcXsKPkhGkY_fFfSSM1jK8vKyr6zwbqYlSIfl1x3FxyYejpYTLiFOLamVlSx7e9a0tXodVX_3SzL5Xa2_VdH_YNE/s1600/47384454_1986983198049724_5736133616438607872_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglxl9d88X_WkNCo7cFLQMvqnLSjgKK3AOgMRO2CqEHKw5S8PD3kAFLcXsKPkhGkY_fFfSSM1jK8vKyr6zwbqYlSIfl1x3FxyYejpYTLiFOLamVlSx7e9a0tXodVX_3SzL5Xa2_VdH_YNE/s400/47384454_1986983198049724_5736133616438607872_n.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI77HT9CrAnPdhtrq1MGgZoK6QJrwK7xLJX48t_s3tqCNBpmwO7iL1VafREXNZNx3OECNjz_2TreJW7g1m8cVrum9dwIMSy0lsBI0lvXRBMOOh9mO-PmPlGsdLJt88nGwMswiMSlnYwHI/s1600/47389816_1986982958049748_3910760395240898560_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI77HT9CrAnPdhtrq1MGgZoK6QJrwK7xLJX48t_s3tqCNBpmwO7iL1VafREXNZNx3OECNjz_2TreJW7g1m8cVrum9dwIMSy0lsBI0lvXRBMOOh9mO-PmPlGsdLJt88nGwMswiMSlnYwHI/s400/47389816_1986982958049748_3910760395240898560_n.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq80wifauRYAr6WHuK7x0SQvjL0gvbVE92IQR4abyce_GR9ipeuYa8BuIPsJeBdDXbhryL-gOgqpytXLB_kUC7QSf_IJYCW3SwTZQaQcfRAyhzk1aV7PRBJ2zfYMDTYpZmqYLy8xzupss/s1600/47473927_10156478871032550_3733778335004622848_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="727" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq80wifauRYAr6WHuK7x0SQvjL0gvbVE92IQR4abyce_GR9ipeuYa8BuIPsJeBdDXbhryL-gOgqpytXLB_kUC7QSf_IJYCW3SwTZQaQcfRAyhzk1aV7PRBJ2zfYMDTYpZmqYLy8xzupss/s400/47473927_10156478871032550_3733778335004622848_n.jpg" width="302" /></a></div>
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Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-84454652371062954932018-12-26T18:35:00.004-06:002022-05-24T16:39:21.589-05:00An Experimental Black and Gold Brisé Fan <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5rYRo3NdW8BhphCxsuDszQdL-FPn4mtBtj_aYjKCL3qCFJROHcVyI93CFqOecZZJG9NhZpLxyrzuJlRSZGxe1kCzB-hqIkOdpk5W_vngRaxwTem9-oKcKTYPKPK7pgcH5qar8n5Cq5-c/s1600/48385203_10156381356266339_7226207021534543872_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="803" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5rYRo3NdW8BhphCxsuDszQdL-FPn4mtBtj_aYjKCL3qCFJROHcVyI93CFqOecZZJG9NhZpLxyrzuJlRSZGxe1kCzB-hqIkOdpk5W_vngRaxwTem9-oKcKTYPKPK7pgcH5qar8n5Cq5-c/s640/48385203_10156381356266339_7226207021534543872_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This wasn't a project I originally intended to take on, but I became mildly obsessed with these fans when I saw them on Facebook. I wanted one. I <i>needed </i>one. But, I am also broke 99.9% of the time, so I needed to figure out how to make this thing myself, rather than shell out the $50+ the vintage ones were going for on the few sites that sold them. <br />
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I searched eBay and AliExpress for a cheap fan that I liked the look of, and found one in the colors I wanted for just under $1.50, with free shipping!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzAeNCIAHb3-plPanV5UpDo09dD3zHzJOLFhQsgB5GRIP-1bcFsxhOVCZacqCb3h7zTXESDurKVqr4HN9aj_aic9ZG24j2AsslIysZZit3il3QeMAZmQro4B8VSNCIZtBpByxjYFQwizc/s1600/fan1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="503" data-original-width="438" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzAeNCIAHb3-plPanV5UpDo09dD3zHzJOLFhQsgB5GRIP-1bcFsxhOVCZacqCb3h7zTXESDurKVqr4HN9aj_aic9ZG24j2AsslIysZZit3il3QeMAZmQro4B8VSNCIZtBpByxjYFQwizc/s400/fan1.jpg" width="348" /></a></div>
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It's horrendously cheap, with tacky lace glued to the sticks, but that was okay because I intended to tear this thing apart, anyway. The main thing I wanted was the sticks, and these seemed to be slightly better than the other plastic fans on offer. It took forever to arrive via ChinaPost, but once it did, I got to work right away tearing it apart. I ripped the cheap lace off the ribs and discarded it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALY_zPK9yYwrTy1XD80eFCxLEiAPon_nPgVr4kFKhxAwV-yjBF-tVYMEKmiM_-7DRG1cUyJCjpwgVpJDfaRZ3MlnljBMHTtPe4iBwq9nUW34tFGRVdfLTeBlpoEfhQx1OwGnkXXebpfY/s1600/45755187704_366b3369c6_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALY_zPK9yYwrTy1XD80eFCxLEiAPon_nPgVr4kFKhxAwV-yjBF-tVYMEKmiM_-7DRG1cUyJCjpwgVpJDfaRZ3MlnljBMHTtPe4iBwq9nUW34tFGRVdfLTeBlpoEfhQx1OwGnkXXebpfY/s400/45755187704_366b3369c6_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Looking at images of original fans, I sketched out a pattern for my palms. I like the patterns that have a more elaborate curved edge, so that's what I copied for my fan.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9eNpMr9wypNvJyIXPkwvfFjE7jbIKDcthOcl0iBM5k3khldUQS3niNppd1HGZBcr3r_RzOFZXEo8niZE8pcNqXBzBkl7KhHE6RCUyACWvhcP_knvbNgHvtA6YYYlTU4a5UXM1yb-Qfg/s1600/45755189844_1fc9348fd5_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9eNpMr9wypNvJyIXPkwvfFjE7jbIKDcthOcl0iBM5k3khldUQS3niNppd1HGZBcr3r_RzOFZXEo8niZE8pcNqXBzBkl7KhHE6RCUyACWvhcP_knvbNgHvtA6YYYlTU4a5UXM1yb-Qfg/s400/45755189844_1fc9348fd5_k.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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My sacrificial fan had 14 ribs, which meant I had to cut out 28 of the palms. I used black card stock as my base. I wanted to have a semi-elaborate gold pattern on my leaves, so I spent some time sketching out the pattern, keeping in mind how it would look with the leaves overlapping each other. I used gold metallic sharpies to fill in the final design, and silver sharpie to do the highlights. The metallic sharpies didn't live as long as I wanted, and I could only get through about 6-8 halves with one pen, so the sharpies ended up being the most expensive part of this project because I had to keep buying more!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VXW2atxB_EIDuX5Fi_sdNKaCzR8nnPuw4Mj0I5eP4BkfLTPzBO9MLnCxeXJKZC-YceeCmyKfBH9QGlrgDvd04lNSEq9Gj__0WNtnuLdvAPrjsCiIjkMVUvmQRLkRsuo8nLGycsMBTv0/s1600/45755186164_f8d1c2a3be_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VXW2atxB_EIDuX5Fi_sdNKaCzR8nnPuw4Mj0I5eP4BkfLTPzBO9MLnCxeXJKZC-YceeCmyKfBH9QGlrgDvd04lNSEq9Gj__0WNtnuLdvAPrjsCiIjkMVUvmQRLkRsuo8nLGycsMBTv0/s400/45755186164_f8d1c2a3be_o.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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I glued the palms down to the ribs, sandwiching the rib between the two sides. I used binder clips to keep the two sides sealed while the glue dried, and a pair of cuticle scissors to trim the curves where the two sides didn't quite match after it was dried.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22RSE2KEEJ9Fiv8xkWWQCiJaLVL9r1jR5D8t7cAfM9Pgeda6czI3yplH6WzD6rmKBaMQZLKcv3zAmvIO0Yb3APqxca_O6xkGwWhtVP5qk8Fs8jw7Y6lafz9EAYfq18oTqEhK5BERp6jQ/s1600/45755184304_30c3b57822_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22RSE2KEEJ9Fiv8xkWWQCiJaLVL9r1jR5D8t7cAfM9Pgeda6czI3yplH6WzD6rmKBaMQZLKcv3zAmvIO0Yb3APqxca_O6xkGwWhtVP5qk8Fs8jw7Y6lafz9EAYfq18oTqEhK5BERp6jQ/s400/45755184304_30c3b57822_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To keep the fan from falling open, I sewed a guide line through each palm. I started with a loose palm, then moved left to right through the palms that were sewn to the ribs. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEPnFEbmWElR9SdGkceUY3njaf0noVMUo0AEpIIz_bKMnywkNl5G0GERwx1tSuJ5EUtgJ9F5fM616O0a9w-h7Or37aXWv2VId38WAKq8-9OVRux-yEDBXPN_V4zrT1alFnhdHaGHzaw6A/s1600/46478768761_b5cf859dd8_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEPnFEbmWElR9SdGkceUY3njaf0noVMUo0AEpIIz_bKMnywkNl5G0GERwx1tSuJ5EUtgJ9F5fM616O0a9w-h7Or37aXWv2VId38WAKq8-9OVRux-yEDBXPN_V4zrT1alFnhdHaGHzaw6A/s400/46478768761_b5cf859dd8_o.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDhhUC7To_p2Fi2oT-wEn1SE53aL8091FrVP0RWWMZXpbywMy1N_b08J4zS1dIS3JYqg9PIM3xOLkbrfnLoeDhwbai_dDShcq2tQPPIUfoQMyejJuc7f93wi84GgtG_xHMiA3Xa1L00vM/s1600/32606017608_6260c72a54_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDhhUC7To_p2Fi2oT-wEn1SE53aL8091FrVP0RWWMZXpbywMy1N_b08J4zS1dIS3JYqg9PIM3xOLkbrfnLoeDhwbai_dDShcq2tQPPIUfoQMyejJuc7f93wi84GgtG_xHMiA3Xa1L00vM/s400/32606017608_6260c72a54_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally, I attached the outer ribs to the loose palms.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkpaTTHSjJCBsrHOIXvD0JK8zkPM_H5FJetCDgWOAda80zb5-EKl5uwIJ8V2Z5zPIkQmP1Wj2OrupQj3XGfdFLNN3FN-FPiTXFO5fIcTRycDXokLyhLnVyRmLEVDyODBuZA0h-xC_MlQ/s1600/31538847927_6b1616c75f_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkpaTTHSjJCBsrHOIXvD0JK8zkPM_H5FJetCDgWOAda80zb5-EKl5uwIJ8V2Z5zPIkQmP1Wj2OrupQj3XGfdFLNN3FN-FPiTXFO5fIcTRycDXokLyhLnVyRmLEVDyODBuZA0h-xC_MlQ/s400/31538847927_6b1616c75f_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
And it was done!<br />
<br />
For a quick experiment, this turned out pretty okay. I'm counting it as a good trial run, and a good test for future projects. I want to do a nicer version in the near future, with nicer sticks and actual silk palms instead of card paper. A lot of originals have sequins embroidered on them, too, and I do love to bling out everything I can with sequins!Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-87934574885756833282018-06-20T13:06:00.001-05:002018-12-21T15:40:45.723-06:00A Look Inside an Antique Natural Form GownI finally did it! I finally purchased my first antique gown! I've been
wanting to really dive into collecting extant gowns for a while, but the
price of the ones that popped up on eBay and the like was always a bit
outside my admittedly meager budget.It was during a trip to a local
antique mall that I finally lucked out - they had a rack full of antique
clothes! Most of the offerings were from ~1910 and later, but there, on
a mannequin in the corner, was this lovely little gem.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEEGkvPjJmb2MwACxZJdcxmX9_BZmFIt_lODE3_vdRP91jFRt7jaQxLc2LvuS_bfI36PZ7VgqOe7YHJ6IPMlDBlTD4AddpHcIJmiDRiUr58YYx8jSqx_xI0tg2d1mmDL-pzZh_nwPonI/s1600/naturalformdress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="599" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEEGkvPjJmb2MwACxZJdcxmX9_BZmFIt_lODE3_vdRP91jFRt7jaQxLc2LvuS_bfI36PZ7VgqOe7YHJ6IPMlDBlTD4AddpHcIJmiDRiUr58YYx8jSqx_xI0tg2d1mmDL-pzZh_nwPonI/s640/naturalformdress.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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They
had it marked as a "civil war era gown", but it's clearly a later
style, most likely from the late 1870s/early 1880s, when natural form
was in full swing. Having
looked at fashion plates and ads from the natural form era, I'd probably
date this dress to between 1878 - 1881, leaning heavily toward 1880. The long bodice like this one <i>really</i> started becoming fashionable around 1880, but it does show up a little bit before then, though not as frequently. Trained skirts also disappear from daywear right around 1880, while just the year before they were still everywhere.<br />
<br />
The dress wasn't in the greatest shape - the silk under the
arms was shredded, and the silk was splitting in a few places. The
button placket at the front of the bodice was nearly torn off, too. But,
the price was right and all the pieces were there, so I decided to give
it a loving new home.<br />
<br />
And what a lovely dress it is! The
dress is made of a striped silk that's mounted onto a brown polished
cotton lining. The embellishments at the bottom are of weighted silk
which, miraculously, hadn't shattered at all. The dress was made with a
combination of machine and hand sewing, and it looked like the dress had
been altered several times over the course of its life. I have a
sneaking suspicion that the dress was even a remake of an earlier gown,
as the sleeve shape looks really late 1860s/early 1870s to me with that elbow flare.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6_zODg1AORZWiCdbEyFR1y2WDVhtt5sKQB-hN7gUUWxpM1DHUxPC9EBwjYi8RJi0xoNkZ-oYgcSA1_9gJTpLY88BhbfDSkyroqYdOeY9qFTMB7rAk_g6wH16YadtBXlkFQWW0G5-3CLw/s1600/IMG_5372.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1275" data-original-width="1600" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6_zODg1AORZWiCdbEyFR1y2WDVhtt5sKQB-hN7gUUWxpM1DHUxPC9EBwjYi8RJi0xoNkZ-oYgcSA1_9gJTpLY88BhbfDSkyroqYdOeY9qFTMB7rAk_g6wH16YadtBXlkFQWW0G5-3CLw/s320/IMG_5372.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdvGXA2fI5ba_3usH-q1P25VewFoi4kxn-sZjf1QyJsQsiB0WPLd-YIIOSCFIf29zkVVi3uc_wtNcLawsk-igJv369JjS_RlaiQHWi1LPEr_JfbeT9E_Axa9Dj_OfXzuUFwgv7KvZRCYA/s1600/IMG_5381.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1322" data-original-width="1600" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdvGXA2fI5ba_3usH-q1P25VewFoi4kxn-sZjf1QyJsQsiB0WPLd-YIIOSCFIf29zkVVi3uc_wtNcLawsk-igJv369JjS_RlaiQHWi1LPEr_JfbeT9E_Axa9Dj_OfXzuUFwgv7KvZRCYA/s320/IMG_5381.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The
bodice is made of two fabrics - a plain black silk on the sleeves and
center back, and a grey and black striped silk for the body and sleeve
cuffs. The striped fabric is really lightweight and almost semi-sheer. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7E27qCcxJTmflB1sTUvTpV9ItoNFOLuZmLRlsYwJ2Qxz9FKz5pnltqsVzge2sY1GpMj-q9-46XBm6Cv3yDjEp1dScgF_pM_7k2r00yAwRLgeZ6I1A-STlPgHqRwcCLJV4iCMJZgOuU8/s1600/IMG_5376.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1400" data-original-width="1600" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7E27qCcxJTmflB1sTUvTpV9ItoNFOLuZmLRlsYwJ2Qxz9FKz5pnltqsVzge2sY1GpMj-q9-46XBm6Cv3yDjEp1dScgF_pM_7k2r00yAwRLgeZ6I1A-STlPgHqRwcCLJV4iCMJZgOuU8/s400/IMG_5376.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The
bodice is lined with a brown polished cotton, and there is a two-inch
wide band of black silk at the hem for facing, which also helps to form
the piping on the outside of the bodice. The striped silk is used as a
facing at the center front. There are two large darts on either side of
the center front, and the seams look like they've been adjusted several
times, probably for growth or weight gain/loss. There's still some hand-stitching on some of the seams where they've been taken in. There is no waist tape, and I can't see any evidence that there ever was.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmkL9macN8U0u0RYB4OPPza5ksQ-Mhz8nt6VMsOy_Mzdp_kYHmjOsA1KS_zX7oCmPhM6nIsJrJ3gcJKRljTK87xZzRVFccoXaAiZtSOEESeRMq3z5SPS955neFXQWBKT1zvSnsf6QXnQk/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmkL9macN8U0u0RYB4OPPza5ksQ-Mhz8nt6VMsOy_Mzdp_kYHmjOsA1KS_zX7oCmPhM6nIsJrJ3gcJKRljTK87xZzRVFccoXaAiZtSOEESeRMq3z5SPS955neFXQWBKT1zvSnsf6QXnQk/s400/IMG_5379.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the facing and the piping a bit better. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT_UUmoH_JWoL75B71oaOinWHqXAvSAECXL8RBjeBY3RRccEMT0wCZcV0Izsp3VmRGiqTpJk6L5bjAWN6Y4wL5x3nWOnRKIayCImiFCpukVkw3WMIQe6qF38CoMPQ1P3ZGWz7ZXOv_g9g/s1600/IMG_5374.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1263" data-original-width="1600" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT_UUmoH_JWoL75B71oaOinWHqXAvSAECXL8RBjeBY3RRccEMT0wCZcV0Izsp3VmRGiqTpJk6L5bjAWN6Y4wL5x3nWOnRKIayCImiFCpukVkw3WMIQe6qF38CoMPQ1P3ZGWz7ZXOv_g9g/s400/IMG_5374.jpg" width="400" /></a> </div>
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The
sleeves have decorative cuffs on them. The buttonholes are false and
made of black silk ribbon, with the buttons just sewn down on top of
them. The outer ring of the buttons has worn away on almost all of them, except for the solid black one above. It's likely that all the buttons once looked like that one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwn1elABOAz4frKLXffAYaIRZfzEP-jq7IzHetPbWPfCyuZgef0bYehQHQpo4zR5kwE_ZzNDUP9pdR2sGoBvmb3EieG3KpoyuDDlNtyP4EltOszaeFLoRdilVUZb4eyKJ9Y069g-A15o4/s1600/IMG_5383.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwn1elABOAz4frKLXffAYaIRZfzEP-jq7IzHetPbWPfCyuZgef0bYehQHQpo4zR5kwE_ZzNDUP9pdR2sGoBvmb3EieG3KpoyuDDlNtyP4EltOszaeFLoRdilVUZb4eyKJ9Y069g-A15o4/s400/IMG_5383.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The
stripes on the bodice run vertically, and meet at an angle at the side
seam. There is a waist seam that runs from the side front to the side
back, and the center front and center back have no waist seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8D3uGLo8G9aVteWman9_2bJzYBLga-kCz18oMKLkhoP4yNehHO7_nHJ0eZyQh8tEZsTVOZVDRU09FbFDwdmf_OR0EZkKY-wHCh45z1WQsvQP5XwlJWJc7kp9a-o8nL3sR4UB5x6_IqU4/s1600/IMG_5384.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8D3uGLo8G9aVteWman9_2bJzYBLga-kCz18oMKLkhoP4yNehHO7_nHJ0eZyQh8tEZsTVOZVDRU09FbFDwdmf_OR0EZkKY-wHCh45z1WQsvQP5XwlJWJc7kp9a-o8nL3sR4UB5x6_IqU4/s400/IMG_5384.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The
shoulder seams are set back from the top of the shoulder. The two
center back panels of the bodice are in the black silk, while the rest
of the bodice is in striped silk.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9xYZOM1gdoWHhdqE2QMzhcQUvIDUdEI47fgqBdwgys8NDKCB8AooFHKkn8T2lDgPShuo0HlyxkqHyorZuMVLzkOIV-RpVQZXSnXAteTAYA3Zh54m6i__cX_5tguiT7WVH2WorCFha4w/s1600/IMG_5388.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1184" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9xYZOM1gdoWHhdqE2QMzhcQUvIDUdEI47fgqBdwgys8NDKCB8AooFHKkn8T2lDgPShuo0HlyxkqHyorZuMVLzkOIV-RpVQZXSnXAteTAYA3Zh54m6i__cX_5tguiT7WVH2WorCFha4w/s400/IMG_5388.jpg" width="400" /></a> </div>
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The outside of the skirt is striped black and grey silk, with two pleated ruffles and a wide band of trim at the hemline. </div>
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The
skirt is flatlined in the same brown polished cotton as the bodice. The
trim on the outside of the skirt is sewn through all layers.<br />
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The
trim at the bottom of the skirt is two stacked ruffles. The bottom
ruffle has spaced pleats in groups of five, while the top ruffle is
evenly pleated in tiny knife pleats. It's finished off at the top with a
band of black silk.</div>
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The
center front of the skirt is gathered slightly and tacked down by hand
through all layers. There are three large upward-facing pleats on the
side front panels.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidFvJ06WNw3Ae8EG3SzA0mzRWvra4PsZNYtLBtgIyvvlUO8co8bYEALZYfypyUPL9ahvBWIx55eA2sYqUYra60L4q3OBIKasvFke5u_n4qRk655Xyh1qY2RlZgUrAsWhVlgDnMt84aFWk/s1600/IMG_5393.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidFvJ06WNw3Ae8EG3SzA0mzRWvra4PsZNYtLBtgIyvvlUO8co8bYEALZYfypyUPL9ahvBWIx55eA2sYqUYra60L4q3OBIKasvFke5u_n4qRk655Xyh1qY2RlZgUrAsWhVlgDnMt84aFWk/s400/IMG_5393.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The back of the skirt is only <i>slightly</i>
longer than the front, likely because of the skirt supports that would
have been worn with it originally. There is a little bit of drapery
going on, but not a great deal. The back actually has two layers of
striped silk, one for the base, and one for the drapery.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodxXk-MVMlG2asJ1ox1M66LSyRyWZ1xM5CGdkSyFtHZAqu4XHZFGV4jlstTbqQrT1_t1d-x1BhV1f4tbAtZrcfSBZa0ASqzbmzV_m6xNjG3oFVZghdxufHBz3oNer3pmJN1742PDVYFg/s1600/IMG_5402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1133" data-original-width="1600" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodxXk-MVMlG2asJ1ox1M66LSyRyWZ1xM5CGdkSyFtHZAqu4XHZFGV4jlstTbqQrT1_t1d-x1BhV1f4tbAtZrcfSBZa0ASqzbmzV_m6xNjG3oFVZghdxufHBz3oNer3pmJN1742PDVYFg/s400/IMG_5402.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
You can see on the inside how much fuller the back is than the front. Oddly, I haven't found any evidence of tapes or ties on the inside of the skirt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94Lgvdlp567RQqG1Gk122ugSUOZ8VrxOmsk95k53edTyOfA8G9p-qq0zbg09g0ijZjWE2zoWyzWNZJAWmmwgldo90JdrA6B-B5BHUDONzzjNhgmqh7b7rKX7Rr0AW9IWAE8sdh_szVUs/s1600/IMG_5396.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94Lgvdlp567RQqG1Gk122ugSUOZ8VrxOmsk95k53edTyOfA8G9p-qq0zbg09g0ijZjWE2zoWyzWNZJAWmmwgldo90JdrA6B-B5BHUDONzzjNhgmqh7b7rKX7Rr0AW9IWAE8sdh_szVUs/s400/IMG_5396.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The
ruffles from the front continue around the back the back of the skirt.
The wide ruffle is only on the underlayer, while the narrower ruffle is
only on the upper layer.<br />
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Underneath the wide ruffle is a facing of black silk.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWLTHNZhozItrANukh6ZulcGmOqoXoC7kkiKvB9OPQ1nr5cAKl7ZSMqpdxARpkwAv35oGI7gzv-t20c7F524JNqBPOVWnIvD_cYPafBfbOTNn7keXksHSbM_o_cNk0BJYSQ_9qgve2xw/s1600/IMG_5414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWLTHNZhozItrANukh6ZulcGmOqoXoC7kkiKvB9OPQ1nr5cAKl7ZSMqpdxARpkwAv35oGI7gzv-t20c7F524JNqBPOVWnIvD_cYPafBfbOTNn7keXksHSbM_o_cNk0BJYSQ_9qgve2xw/s400/IMG_5414.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The underlayer is made up of different sections of fabric.The center is of brown polished cotton.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZrHLrxRuqNgciQtCGHIxpoe0JCtkKcQPy05bndeaSQ6n6r7qRgS0nqP1YvgQOwqRf4GnMCh0NbcKQiGbhfn2J13GS3vlGVb-EAzvDvBnd0oIAsZbXrUcjdZZRmmRcqgQTWlllCCINWY/s1600/IMG_5397.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZrHLrxRuqNgciQtCGHIxpoe0JCtkKcQPy05bndeaSQ6n6r7qRgS0nqP1YvgQOwqRf4GnMCh0NbcKQiGbhfn2J13GS3vlGVb-EAzvDvBnd0oIAsZbXrUcjdZZRmmRcqgQTWlllCCINWY/s400/IMG_5397.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The
sides of the underlayer are of striped silk. Oddly, the upper layer is
left loose on the top half of the skirt, right down to where the large
pleats on the side panels are. This was done intentionally, as there is
a band of black silk on the inside for a facing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil-jJDDcMRA-q07V-D5IWZ6r0v_ROFjpTxKxUlTxWn79Ka51v2tvm3nU5hS0XsgYW_o0joHWYUs7-BJCt1NK8-418jtuOdGfjLgSeBz0DtvBnnS8X8peaMF9UHNJN7xpUF9ZwLuNiHQ5g/s1600/IMG_5399.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil-jJDDcMRA-q07V-D5IWZ6r0v_ROFjpTxKxUlTxWn79Ka51v2tvm3nU5hS0XsgYW_o0joHWYUs7-BJCt1NK8-418jtuOdGfjLgSeBz0DtvBnnS8X8peaMF9UHNJN7xpUF9ZwLuNiHQ5g/s400/IMG_5399.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The
black facing goes all the way to the bottom edge of the upper layer. At
the side, the top panel of the skirt is pleated several times and
stitched to the outside of the skirt, free of the seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhET_TAg9cJplUQ1IoSuY2M_kQ1i6IeB7Lak3zuMVqOzkxrWpav0pqe2xcm2fs7aH7xV7R2kpTujs9N0lPZRHAt3vmGlI6RogdfzGV1tZAcK0NmvJlHi3OjPdv0kclprTFcPWi8igPx89c/s1600/IMG_5394.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhET_TAg9cJplUQ1IoSuY2M_kQ1i6IeB7Lak3zuMVqOzkxrWpav0pqe2xcm2fs7aH7xV7R2kpTujs9N0lPZRHAt3vmGlI6RogdfzGV1tZAcK0NmvJlHi3OjPdv0kclprTFcPWi8igPx89c/s400/IMG_5394.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The
skirt opens at the center back. There is no placket, and it doesn't
look like there ever was. There is a weird tuck a few inches from the
waistband. It doesn't extend all the way across the back of the skirt,
and is hidden by the bodice when worn, so this may be a quick and dirty
alteration done in the past to adjust the length.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4Ld9xhRoPH3DrmAp465TGs5Xgh9dlwBff4usUPl2i5qN7CKr-43P5SL1KjGaFfhq_6KDCawenVVDKPVUs89ggA7lZJ6h-aXTScn-38UpJSo2hE07Tr4wUQFKxpgDXgoOSk6GvM2H3YY/s1600/IMG_5404.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4Ld9xhRoPH3DrmAp465TGs5Xgh9dlwBff4usUPl2i5qN7CKr-43P5SL1KjGaFfhq_6KDCawenVVDKPVUs89ggA7lZJ6h-aXTScn-38UpJSo2hE07Tr4wUQFKxpgDXgoOSk6GvM2H3YY/s400/IMG_5404.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The
lining at the back has a couple of strange features. First, there's a
big tuck a few inches down. It's not at the same level as the outside
tuck, but it does take up the same amount of length, which adds more
evidence that this was done as an alteration.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiCfgMtno4tNXjVzPwd7kI7aH0QOJ1Lq9hQ1PCXq5BQdvFkElEj73FrDVL7lMeTKQzOGeFkEAmsvaeqNXZwthsu1xlPtf_GoMF3WPktd6BHHTNQzQtuSFT3HX9mJRAFICEkeNgGCNbbs/s1600/IMG_5403.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiCfgMtno4tNXjVzPwd7kI7aH0QOJ1Lq9hQ1PCXq5BQdvFkElEj73FrDVL7lMeTKQzOGeFkEAmsvaeqNXZwthsu1xlPtf_GoMF3WPktd6BHHTNQzQtuSFT3HX9mJRAFICEkeNgGCNbbs/s400/IMG_5403.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
There's
a 4-6 inch band of cotton that's sewn into the skirt at the back
waistline. I originally thought that this was also a length alteration,
but when I looked closer, the band was cut and sewn on, not folded down.
It's very tightly gathered, and then whip-stitched to the waistband. I
think this was probably done to add some umph to the back of the skirt
and give it a little volume.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk_ytZuUEOdwd5LqNB3VreHqDPN9eQK8ljCX7n-7ez5c9Kv3dUfvLrzZ4k7KkUB8zBLxM3HDbBh7HreZrmfBTQbMMXkmxjMMCajw3apAm2Hjbsb7vnDvqeyuNYGv0fdg81K0A89WrKOTo/s1600/IMG_5416.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk_ytZuUEOdwd5LqNB3VreHqDPN9eQK8ljCX7n-7ez5c9Kv3dUfvLrzZ4k7KkUB8zBLxM3HDbBh7HreZrmfBTQbMMXkmxjMMCajw3apAm2Hjbsb7vnDvqeyuNYGv0fdg81K0A89WrKOTo/s400/IMG_5416.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
More
alterations are apparent at the waistline. There's a bit of the
polished cotton and the striped silk folded down and sewn into the
waistband.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6FDgRzILhImwY_faU2L5_1kzsPwz5s7x97du6NjseKokXY2NZ8o3hntKA5eTEBeGNA8A5bJ4XdvQh-Msy79j3dU1RZ7TGJ76lVORA4s_hQH2NkXGwnVp4_fkXHuy2Ljt0a9_8UEnEn4/s1600/IMG_5415.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6FDgRzILhImwY_faU2L5_1kzsPwz5s7x97du6NjseKokXY2NZ8o3hntKA5eTEBeGNA8A5bJ4XdvQh-Msy79j3dU1RZ7TGJ76lVORA4s_hQH2NkXGwnVp4_fkXHuy2Ljt0a9_8UEnEn4/s400/IMG_5415.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
And finally...pocket! I don't know what the white line of stitching is on the pocket bag, it doesn't seem to serve a function. <br />
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I'm so happy to have this dress in my collection. It has so much personality, and it was clearly loved by whoever owned it before.</div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTIoHoXwxOxTPYBwpfqakBRDunJEUriNfS4xbf2HnxNyLMdwqsVvHzOo2hYNubLCUbwB4SiGSrlS9U2aBdeZvBESO_-OuPk5kxs3W6rGCv7IxkaUPM8RRzw7vRPK9sCAeVN8Kwov9Hww/s400/35430679_10155936270646339_2944702845984702464_n.jpg" /> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHzV2qm0p6SP-1SrE5IzC_ID-e397xiHKetXIjqGj1qCZQgd3MN5-Yj4EfwsRswAR2Hgm4Cu4RMCeuCqtLMYgbJj8EEOUdCoNDN8Hs6P1O87BsB5FZoOgCEl9P5h3cbiYJ1mpWh48Qj4/s400/35416431_10155936270716339_7399836529083809792_n.jpg" /></div>
Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-89977135391973850252018-06-14T20:21:00.005-05:002022-05-24T16:39:50.828-05:001872 Green Embroidered Corset<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcvQNf8N3vZGLAVK3rZ07vxbrVnHhlweMsolN7Un20ZsjwfizfZMLV5d45gR69RdcNzrM0WIggqoLFNuQe3x66AFFGgLLWsabFRSJUvvMOz7FwAcjd5VmPrPYESTgogUiNASSZZj8BmJI/s1600/banner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="384" data-original-width="732" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcvQNf8N3vZGLAVK3rZ07vxbrVnHhlweMsolN7Un20ZsjwfizfZMLV5d45gR69RdcNzrM0WIggqoLFNuQe3x66AFFGgLLWsabFRSJUvvMOz7FwAcjd5VmPrPYESTgogUiNASSZZj8BmJI/s640/banner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br /></div>
<span style="color: #444444;">Finally, a UFO that I can say I actually went back and finished! I actually started this new corset way back in December of 2016. I had found a beautiful blue embroidered corset online that I'd become mildly obsessed with, and I wanted something similar. I searched for a long time, but I could never find a blue silk that made me happy. Eventually, came across a good sized remnant of some deep green dupioni silk in my Stash. It wasn't the lovely blue, but I was also trying to keep costs down, so I decided to use the green silk and do the embroidery in the same cream/natural color of the original. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I had been plugging along pretty well, and even managed to finish the embroidery design on all the bust gussets, when I just ran out of steam. I needed to finish other projects for upcoming events, so the corset was put into a project bag and pretty much shoved under the bed and forgotten about, until the need for 1870s undies came up earlier this year.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I dug the project back out from under the bed, dusted off the pattern pieces, and reacquainted myself with my inspiration piece, which is this stunning corset from Abiti Antichi's collection.</span><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_xCQUljMw3oL2QcHPY9r7W9ibNRZKf_WTZryJ4tdgMCyaVmmAn8sSIuer3tU6pfuqqc2O44Av_F_hHb9M3R9_w4IGa-YQR5CiNYQpv5YyueXoeF-SoDtV3JI3VLpO1WPspcr6f-bLg4/s1600/15542056_1208258079255577_7966654348811824076_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="550" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_xCQUljMw3oL2QcHPY9r7W9ibNRZKf_WTZryJ4tdgMCyaVmmAn8sSIuer3tU6pfuqqc2O44Av_F_hHb9M3R9_w4IGa-YQR5CiNYQpv5YyueXoeF-SoDtV3JI3VLpO1WPspcr6f-bLg4/s400/15542056_1208258079255577_7966654348811824076_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">Blue corset with ivory embroidery, 1866</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #444444;">I'm still totally in love with the blue color, but I was going to work with what I had, especially since the bulk of the embroidery was already finished.</span></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXT6IrCWm_SGdEKGqvT3czLwf4cfS4XGRq6ojd4YPOhG8cSApYryMye9F8_YB_NzwtYV4NcZPUdGZX49Xr-yP8sqD5-7eEsJH8LxOgslkDHGT5SRgAXlR8lEX4cnOv_PQn1HKhmQqKec8/s1600/15698327_1216817761732942_3744887373094118367_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="717" height="519" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXT6IrCWm_SGdEKGqvT3czLwf4cfS4XGRq6ojd4YPOhG8cSApYryMye9F8_YB_NzwtYV4NcZPUdGZX49Xr-yP8sqD5-7eEsJH8LxOgslkDHGT5SRgAXlR8lEX4cnOv_PQn1HKhmQqKec8/s400/15698327_1216817761732942_3744887373094118367_n.jpg" width="388" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">Back when I had first started on this project, I had taken a lot of time to decide which pattern to use. I didn't want to send away for a pattern, since I was trying to keep costs down, so I looked mainly at commercial patterns you could buy at fabric stores. I knew I wanted something with gussets so I could mimic the look of the original, which helped eliminate quite a few choices. I was originally drawn to Simplicity 7215, which is marketed as late-hoop era, and sold along with another pattern packet for an elliptical hoop, which means they were aiming for the latter part of the 1860s. This fit in with the Abiti Antichi corset being dated at 1866.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivO4F92-9ZtmctHUBI3rqG9DxupfcjPrw6simUh-Hl6KdVNLkX2fpUn88EGbjTXlFRQqkeyM7Cuqeezkd0mtwRWhRCSkMp15yzFRclTf02oZgKXrMoAQ8z8ColnpJKs5DrQL9W5ZkBKp4/s1600/7215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivO4F92-9ZtmctHUBI3rqG9DxupfcjPrw6simUh-Hl6KdVNLkX2fpUn88EGbjTXlFRQqkeyM7Cuqeezkd0mtwRWhRCSkMp15yzFRclTf02oZgKXrMoAQ8z8ColnpJKs5DrQL9W5ZkBKp4/s1600/7215.jpg" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">It turns out that this corset pattern is actually taken directly from an original that appeared in an 1872 issue of <i>De Gracieuse</i>. The seam lines, boning placement, and gusset shapes are exactly the same, and when I looked at the pattern page from the magazine, the pattern pieces were identical. The same pattern also appeared in <i>La Mode Illustree </i>in the same year. </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkEgl8OwcfhhPPlRyz6MNchvAlLnFM9TYInF7ry28s1PBxlva7oWNasIdBsSWc2nd9jGdaBJUEZJPByKj7dATgdEA6HXD75yjXtc_VgyF5V9ZtwFarE67dtLjFY733Uh_Atgd-s-Xy1Y/s1600/urn-gvn-GMDH01-GRAC-10-15-124-000-large.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1032" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkEgl8OwcfhhPPlRyz6MNchvAlLnFM9TYInF7ry28s1PBxlva7oWNasIdBsSWc2nd9jGdaBJUEZJPByKj7dATgdEA6HXD75yjXtc_VgyF5V9ZtwFarE67dtLjFY733Uh_Atgd-s-Xy1Y/s640/urn-gvn-GMDH01-GRAC-10-15-124-000-large.jpeg" width="412" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">The middle left corset looks to be the one used as the baseline the Simplicity 7215.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444;">Unfortunately, the Simplicity pattern has been discontinued. I was told that their new corset pattern, Simplicity 2890, was a direct reprinting of 7215, so I purchased that one instead. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"> </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXaciGzt9fTAegnglUJMab6sBoqOYwg0eER__W4lBwc1U4o273vCzhMIB2jTAfUyqwvBIKPGXLRzr_DoLk2r_zhK_CpBfQVkkJ2JZEUdj859glG3c84WD67s4rWSyIj-2rOxjzAuJz0M/s1600/2890_1_800x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1142" data-original-width="795" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXaciGzt9fTAegnglUJMab6sBoqOYwg0eER__W4lBwc1U4o273vCzhMIB2jTAfUyqwvBIKPGXLRzr_DoLk2r_zhK_CpBfQVkkJ2JZEUdj859glG3c84WD67s4rWSyIj-2rOxjzAuJz0M/s400/2890_1_800x.jpg" width="277" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;">Of course, nothing is ever as it seems, and the two patterns are not identical. Yes, they <i>are</i> very similar, but there are small differences. The bottom edge of 2890 is shaped different, with a rounded point at the center front, while 7215 has a much more subtle dip. The shape of the hip gussets is also different - in 2890 they are triangular, while in 7215 they are much more square.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">It looked like 2890 was actually the <i>center</i> corset in the <i>De Gracieuse</i> magazine. It appeared on the same page as the 7215 corset, in the same illustration, and the pattern was published on the same chart. It, too, appeared in an issue of <i>La Mode Ilustree </i>in 1872.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZzKeZAB8sISknxJe3cogVB9yKDPkAXIz4RRIOu9HX5nEuD8AkcYPEPiHNLQvipxUL1yP53e1ZSUByt7X9dxdrpHrPKwuokxgLxfj1FzdC-V1g7bhZ1wMLC9tSmzs6VnJYLFjbGvJZPE/s1600/il_570xN_753995425_am5q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="753" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZzKeZAB8sISknxJe3cogVB9yKDPkAXIz4RRIOu9HX5nEuD8AkcYPEPiHNLQvipxUL1yP53e1ZSUByt7X9dxdrpHrPKwuokxgLxfj1FzdC-V1g7bhZ1wMLC9tSmzs6VnJYLFjbGvJZPE/s320/il_570xN_753995425_am5q.jpg" width="242" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">So, there it was - two corset patterns from Simplicity, that originally appeared in 1872 in the same fashion magazine. Pretty neat! (Can someone please tell me why everyone is dating this pattern to 1867?)</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">Both of the Simplicity patterns are marketed as Civil War era corsets, which turns out to be incorrect. If I was still hoping to stick with 1866 as the year for my corset, this would have been a slight problem. Fortunately, though, I'm now aiming for early-bustle era, and both of these patterns are perfect for that! </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">After a year of letting this project linger in limbo, I dug it back out and got back to work on it. I had already done a good portion of the work - I had lengthened the pattern as needed (the Simplicity pattern is very short-waisted, so beware) and I had bonded the green silk to the mattress ticking I was using as the strength layer. The embroidery on all four bust gussets was finished. Oddly, I had cut it so I didn't have the curved point at the center front, and I'm not sure why I did that. Since I had been working with a very small remnant, I can only assume that I did it because of the amount of fabric I had available. This made it so my corset was pretty flat across the bottom front. It's not as graceful looking as the original, but I needed to work with what I had, and I was totally out of fabric, so I couldn't piece anything back in. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I had lost my instructions and pattern packet for the corset, so I have no idea whether it called for a lining or not. I don't think it does, and the original is a one-layered coutil corset, but I wanted a lining to hide the embroidery threads on the back of the gussets. I had a bit of cotton sateen left from a previous project, so that is what I used. I had to use my corset pieces as patterns since I had altered the originals so much.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">With everything cut out, I started on assembly. The markings around the bust gussets and front dart were transferred to the silk with transfer paper. I started by closing up the front dart.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrxYu9j68N8WTYOw01gPdR10L69JCKN3AOmO5Ic7qUEdCMoVDTytcu1nh5chmXqqtw4A9CxM41luhX817fRMWwS67jXcYcqAP34TkAgeB1ylqUwJIordEkBWzUpWDbU6bBpy866N6vgU/s1600/24058880_10155420586751339_412159699230729285_n.jpg"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="717" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrxYu9j68N8WTYOw01gPdR10L69JCKN3AOmO5Ic7qUEdCMoVDTytcu1nh5chmXqqtw4A9CxM41luhX817fRMWwS67jXcYcqAP34TkAgeB1ylqUwJIordEkBWzUpWDbU6bBpy866N6vgU/s400/24058880_10155420586751339_412159699230729285_n.jpg" width="298" /></span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZhSUg7a5d72IRLMnRtv-VcVuQCRTMbnh5K-1_4gP0O83RMtoLQyA5avUuwq_R7a59_o9Ui4VWpsu_nwNndLpD-m-NOit6phqavzjnuwNlfvtro5gNqSn_Mgm67A_B952PxF9YOBUe-_M/s1600/photo+%252850%2529.JPG"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="478" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZhSUg7a5d72IRLMnRtv-VcVuQCRTMbnh5K-1_4gP0O83RMtoLQyA5avUuwq_R7a59_o9Ui4VWpsu_nwNndLpD-m-NOit6phqavzjnuwNlfvtro5gNqSn_Mgm67A_B952PxF9YOBUe-_M/s400/photo+%252850%2529.JPG" width="298" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">At this point I realized that I should probably do the embroidery on the busk pocket before I went any further, so I did that during my down time at work. I used a combination of stem stitch, satin stitch, and French knots, just like on the gussets, and tried to stay as true to the original design as I could. With the embroidery done, and the gussets in, I added the lining and inserted the busk.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I used an awl to create the holes that the nubby parts of the busk were inserted through. This way, the holes were stronger than if I had cut through the fabric, and it meant that I didn't have to cut through any of the embroidery, either.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Mqkc9JXisFXm-UTA4Qg0rIifk6p7vAACqgzxuSzg99QS8wncT7OTe1WfU9fHVLNcazpj1CrXaFokAuROPSYC8WgnPIFbF1THFH1RzZ3v-ibDYm03DpzGfuAyucho-cV-9q9iQYGwGBE/s1600/photo+%252873%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"></span></a><br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfksVdeaigG50GcK9E-cgst1a0T63y-fNPYebgtoE6Qpbm_1txp6dsjEpcoQHf0Ra8uIlehsOA_Rv4A3g7H7GAuM1A1cfQOKl-9k6X6TN4dpMu5r7IoTyJyC8jR3Qyr8MXrR4lHP9sCMI/s1600/photo+%252871%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfksVdeaigG50GcK9E-cgst1a0T63y-fNPYebgtoE6Qpbm_1txp6dsjEpcoQHf0Ra8uIlehsOA_Rv4A3g7H7GAuM1A1cfQOKl-9k6X6TN4dpMu5r7IoTyJyC8jR3Qyr8MXrR4lHP9sCMI/s400/photo+%252871%2529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">Before I stitched in the boning channels, I went back and embroidered the corners of all the busk pieces with some dense satin stitch. This adds a bit more strength to them, since the corners are usually weak spots, and it adds an extra decorative element.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79kfiMe3Uc1x1P-cvPV_lF6bXKdJsCQ_weRwWDxSgfyjGenCpVAXCA7KVidoX6m8wa7Bf0Yfw6R61dQTWIlcqGzhkHOfV7DK4yOSF6pHehsibHrzb7ry4fs3j6T8jN1W8glKnNb69pbY/s1600/photo+%252872%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79kfiMe3Uc1x1P-cvPV_lF6bXKdJsCQ_weRwWDxSgfyjGenCpVAXCA7KVidoX6m8wa7Bf0Yfw6R61dQTWIlcqGzhkHOfV7DK4yOSF6pHehsibHrzb7ry4fs3j6T8jN1W8glKnNb69pbY/s400/photo+%252872%2529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">Then it was finally time to add the boning to the corset. I've used steel boning for most of my corsetry, and have been happy with it, but I wanted to try out using German synthetic whalebone this time. I had heard great things from other costumers about it, and comparisons to original whalebone showed that it acted in the same manner as the real stuff, so I was excited! It's also nice that you can cut it with scissors and shape the ends with an emory board, which is much easier than having to use a dremmel to alter steel boning!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4gJrzn9d2kAVpdGf5j5mwi4vk9lf9cmxqS6HA3yL3NMrWb2SYE_14dX3H2PPWSYIH7EN919zh-TSnk28cjYLxH07S-tsb9rOPq3T7cHPmQpPnq59DwuDo0U98Oz53rM1b0FCAYrEf2c/s1600/photo+%252870%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4gJrzn9d2kAVpdGf5j5mwi4vk9lf9cmxqS6HA3yL3NMrWb2SYE_14dX3H2PPWSYIH7EN919zh-TSnk28cjYLxH07S-tsb9rOPq3T7cHPmQpPnq59DwuDo0U98Oz53rM1b0FCAYrEf2c/s400/photo+%252870%2529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">The boning seems really flimsy at first, and I had my doubts. But, when reading about how original corsets were boned, with clusters of whalebone together instead of just a bone here or there, then I felt a bit more confident. Just take a look at my inspiration corset - that corset is <i>packed</i> with boning! </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">The Simplicity pattern actually had very little boning, which was surprising, but the original 1872 pattern also had very few bones. (The Simplicity pattern actually has the same boning pattern as the original in <i>De Graceiuse</i>, so it's authentic to the period pattern.) However, I'm a substantial girl and needed a little extra umph in the support department, and I didn't fully trust the synthetic whalebone to give me what I needed. I have nearly four times the amount of boning as in the original pattern! I had also read other people's reviews of the pattern, and they had noted some buckling in places and lack of support in others, so I listened to their advice and added boning in the problem areas.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAfhIJ_GYCn8Eqct36oBc_5Rf3TgRfKwKyexT_xSEqDsHJ8k21VuOzHlajdAOu58Vjc5rvxYxDuGdULGID1gYro3X67kPAHS1dn7_JMyudwwfLAtkJQrmcWXIacCVaNCDIITjHuenCsEM/s1600/photo+%252873%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAfhIJ_GYCn8Eqct36oBc_5Rf3TgRfKwKyexT_xSEqDsHJ8k21VuOzHlajdAOu58Vjc5rvxYxDuGdULGID1gYro3X67kPAHS1dn7_JMyudwwfLAtkJQrmcWXIacCVaNCDIITjHuenCsEM/s400/photo+%252873%2529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I inserted the boning, and flossed it into place.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJufttoqijXN41hC21e5X2E_yU9XyJz3QLQTdwUPg6NF4U-esN6IHTAPNmsMG1T_H_wDAW5j8xUqkL9_UeRUHSEsXigOM8zQKE-wap2_sGZ_q7lHp302KpwTTMcMjDHmzLTQNw99GQZVk/s1600/photo+%252874%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJufttoqijXN41hC21e5X2E_yU9XyJz3QLQTdwUPg6NF4U-esN6IHTAPNmsMG1T_H_wDAW5j8xUqkL9_UeRUHSEsXigOM8zQKE-wap2_sGZ_q7lHp302KpwTTMcMjDHmzLTQNw99GQZVk/s400/photo+%252874%2529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I used this original flossing as my inspiration.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MVbPQD6ag3uBe8tgmxuNzsCMOSApjQ4mV722_aObep-dLw_rhiRhCQ5mpME5LH4SELOLDpwJ9aaB3oz5z0Vf5daOkUZyx5Cgwef5gG1FKopvluQWllBgeWJ7VPgTCffVHrPsgoIhHrI/s1600/Flossing-Lace-gallery-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="467" data-original-width="700" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MVbPQD6ag3uBe8tgmxuNzsCMOSApjQ4mV722_aObep-dLw_rhiRhCQ5mpME5LH4SELOLDpwJ9aaB3oz5z0Vf5daOkUZyx5Cgwef5gG1FKopvluQWllBgeWJ7VPgTCffVHrPsgoIhHrI/s400/Flossing-Lace-gallery-1.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">Symington Collection</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444;">I then bound the top and bottom edges with some narrow bias tape. Since it was cotton, it wasn't quite the same color as the silk, but I wasn't too worried about it since it would end up being covered with lace.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbPN-RenuCBJviEDAT-VUyi_EjW9csiqPg4DeJlB99iYfumy3kOHMdDsxBXFpTS8P0cHgq_EkZuHToD1Z3eARED8bws7MjDGvtXm1Rx03JiRD4fDERr2csGdKSLfN2i_cVJYqXYU_LLQ/s1600/photo%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbPN-RenuCBJviEDAT-VUyi_EjW9csiqPg4DeJlB99iYfumy3kOHMdDsxBXFpTS8P0cHgq_EkZuHToD1Z3eARED8bws7MjDGvtXm1Rx03JiRD4fDERr2csGdKSLfN2i_cVJYqXYU_LLQ/s400/photo%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">The original corset has zig-zag type embroidery on the bottom and top edges, but I didn't want to do all that, so I searched for some lace that would do the job. I thought it would be difficult to find a natural-colored lace that was the same color as the embroidery, but I was surprised to find the perfect lace at one of my favorite online trim shops!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Rz7Q8A5fS4FP7mmuNHlC3ZVFg9NfshgDRGTXpJV_7cGiJvfdUsDsxsUO3VBKh5Fou8om0c1F07PrZj3aCtlKziJCYDfoSgOcqR9Xfw2ZE1SRyQ-b4xExO05f-yPgrtVWFNsYTqtDL4A/s1600/1-yard-natural-venice-venise-lace-trim-3-8-inch-wide-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="115" data-original-width="640" height="57" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Rz7Q8A5fS4FP7mmuNHlC3ZVFg9NfshgDRGTXpJV_7cGiJvfdUsDsxsUO3VBKh5Fou8om0c1F07PrZj3aCtlKziJCYDfoSgOcqR9Xfw2ZE1SRyQ-b4xExO05f-yPgrtVWFNsYTqtDL4A/s320/1-yard-natural-venice-venise-lace-trim-3-8-inch-wide-9.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I added the lace to both the top and bottom edges of the corset.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;">I could have gone with regular grommets on the back, but I had these fabulous little flower grommets in my Stash that were just perfect for this project. They're actual grommets, too, not eyelets, so they've very secure once they are set in.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LkuieTKYUBCHlvrFuZus5xPNdGTXOxAehcImyqj0zwOidGsOAHL-xsnH_yq_sE_gF-_HhgWj3KUGAAj6VPFfwcXIDRBgb6ItIuxC3hPb-hYJuwrlRzmfukaGPXJy9CSbIOzyj3ivL5o/s1600/photo%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LkuieTKYUBCHlvrFuZus5xPNdGTXOxAehcImyqj0zwOidGsOAHL-xsnH_yq_sE_gF-_HhgWj3KUGAAj6VPFfwcXIDRBgb6ItIuxC3hPb-hYJuwrlRzmfukaGPXJy9CSbIOzyj3ivL5o/s400/photo%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444;">I didn't manage to finish the flossing before the Victorian Soiree back in February, so I wore the corset as is. It was super comfortable, and gave me such a great shape! The synthetic whalebone was surprisingly supportive, and it didn't buckle the way that regular plastic boning usually does, even when I was cinched in pretty tightly. The only place that I noticed any weakness was right at the waist around the grommets. Upon further research, I noticed that a lot of surviving corsets actually have steel boning around the grommets, even if they have whalebone throughout the rest of the corset. I may go back one day and switch out my synthetic whalebone for some flat steel, but for now I'm content to let it be.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444;">I finally got around to finishing the flossing last week, which was a huge pain and involved pliers, blood loss, and much cursing, but at last, the corset is 100% complete. I love the final look, and now I have a flashy new Victorian corset to build my future gowns around. I think I may now be addicted to flashy corsets, too, because I have several new embroidered corsets planned. I don't know if I'll ever be able to make a plain white corset again!</span><br />
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Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-86718189720305669982018-02-18T21:48:00.001-06:002022-05-24T16:40:08.835-05:00A Turquoise and Silver Bustle Gown for Day and Night<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD7GKPP4weatw6sNGyJv3T73esfoSz087P2F6vVrykc1gAlY_Baunx0RENiORiL7pLlBLUvd-fiTtr3Xvws4TlZapzgRERum_Lt25k7gRPZ5vaUBkieXlLXqu5wWfIYmGLr1YuDFH8hTU/s1600/daynight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD7GKPP4weatw6sNGyJv3T73esfoSz087P2F6vVrykc1gAlY_Baunx0RENiORiL7pLlBLUvd-fiTtr3Xvws4TlZapzgRERum_Lt25k7gRPZ5vaUBkieXlLXqu5wWfIYmGLr1YuDFH8hTU/s1600/daynight.jpg" /></a></div>
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Desperation sewing. I'm really trying not to do any this year, but somehow I always end up in a time crunch when there's an event on the horizon, no matter how much of a head start I get. When I began this dress, the Victorian Soiree just a month away and I'd had a moment of panic when I realized that the pink dress I initially wanted to make was too complex, too involved, and I would <i>never </i>finish it on time. I could try to make it, sure, but I <i>knew</i> I wasn't going to be happy with the outcome. When I sew in a panic, I end up with gowns like the <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2015/12/a-burgundy-trainwreck.html"><span style="color: blue;">burgundy trainwreck</span></a>. <br />
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So, instead of rushing through the complicated pink gown, I decided to shift gears and work on something simpler. Relatively simpler, anyway. <br />
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I had picked up a length of a beautiful turquoise blue African George the last time I had been in the Dallas warehouses, intending to make a new Regency ballgown out of it. With little time to find an alternative and no time at all to wait for anything in the mail, I decided to sacrifice the Regency dress for the Victorian one. I dug through Pinterest to see how I could use the George to greatest advantage, and I found this plate from 1874.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJIgOk1YZ1hx4MVnT4n-CTYn1RFV0dpBNqLHAoLU11db7MiY1hyphenhyphenMDweM9zXYYg5Kjo2ZqDTLFFF8A-nQnrlNRKDvEaeFx4HivltxjPNOLzw85MwoWO_Why3PojP_Y15QfCf6_Wafh9qA/s1600/cbc59af3ab25a4a788808f9b5f1e4c91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="789" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJIgOk1YZ1hx4MVnT4n-CTYn1RFV0dpBNqLHAoLU11db7MiY1hyphenhyphenMDweM9zXYYg5Kjo2ZqDTLFFF8A-nQnrlNRKDvEaeFx4HivltxjPNOLzw85MwoWO_Why3PojP_Y15QfCf6_Wafh9qA/s640/cbc59af3ab25a4a788808f9b5f1e4c91.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The pink gown on the far right looked like a good inspiration point to leap off of. I only had 5 yards of the George, so I had to make it count. The plan started to come together - the turquoise would be used for the bodice and overskirt/train. I had some silver taffeta-ish stuff in my fabric stash that I could use for the ruffles and accents, which would compliment the silver embroidery on the George. It was settled, the dress was simple enough, and I was ready to go.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggHkl0z5vVGYovWctHHY5MgFN2d980fMzGSgDetvgJwLR5eeRicqT0JDpakyX1U1yq-Oiyh_xV8dXrgYlaCTkPORJ3PnKsjgc8cHBG8aAEYE65i1Z6AiWv-5EFvIhwbXSXHOZu_J6_WpQ/s1600/26167332_10155520478691339_6335103489381795588_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="717" data-original-width="960" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggHkl0z5vVGYovWctHHY5MgFN2d980fMzGSgDetvgJwLR5eeRicqT0JDpakyX1U1yq-Oiyh_xV8dXrgYlaCTkPORJ3PnKsjgc8cHBG8aAEYE65i1Z6AiWv-5EFvIhwbXSXHOZu_J6_WpQ/s400/26167332_10155520478691339_6335103489381795588_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I did things a little backward and started with the overskirt so I could work out how to showcase the fabric in the best way possible. The embroidery is only along one edge of the fabric, and I wanted it to be around the hem of the overskirt and the train if I could manage it. </div>
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I began with the overskirt. I cut a panel of fabric, which would serve as the apron front, with the embroidery along the bottom edge. The back of the overskirt was simply a 45-inch wide rectangle, also cut with the embroidery at the bottom edge. </div>
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The sides of each piece were pleated up to create the drapery.</div>
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With the overskirt made, I only had about 90 inches of embroidered edge left to eek the train out of. I experimented for while, playing with different methods of pleating and gathering the fabric so it would make a rounded train while maintaining the integrity of the embroidery. Eventually, I settled on this.</div>
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The plan was to use the silver taffeta to make the rest of the train, the part that would be hidden by the overskirt, so I wouldn't waist the turquoise fabric on parts that wouldn't be seen. Thankfully, this is a totally period way of doing things, using your fancy fabric only on the parts that show, and using something cheaper or more durable on the visible bits.</div>
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This entire project was an exercise in juggling fabrics, and everything was completed outside of the usual order of operations. Once the overskirt and train were figured out, I wanted to make sure I'd have enough of the silver taffeta to go around, so I turned my attention to the underskirt. To conserve fabric, I used this pattern to make the base of the skirt. Given that the silver fabric was so lightweight, I really should have flatlined it, but I didn't. That's what happens when you sew with a cold - you forget vital steps! There is enough umph in my petticoats to support the skirt, but it would have given the skirt a bit more body and support for the ruffles. Ah, well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6qV87flqDcSobZPhN2aogx7gGA3VlbXjfVdQgL2tRGWeGGeBsBnVnRRSLauEX0iHs9loWKJgP4Eu9yvIoYOwQKZxRE2BHsrjewLBm2Cp3ljvx4EBe9B1arTP2gTQDZcNrmC0SGSOfuw/s1600/photo+%252868%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="488" data-original-width="650" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6qV87flqDcSobZPhN2aogx7gGA3VlbXjfVdQgL2tRGWeGGeBsBnVnRRSLauEX0iHs9loWKJgP4Eu9yvIoYOwQKZxRE2BHsrjewLBm2Cp3ljvx4EBe9B1arTP2gTQDZcNrmC0SGSOfuw/s400/photo+%252868%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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With one of the scraps of turquoise that I had left, I cut several 6-inch wide strips, which I sewed together and then stitched down to the skirt 10 inches above the hem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGukdyB-QRXsOgZ3AVkXg5AW5uVNcnG-yVDEpHGWwsHxV60ZgiHX6t9kQHUy3X_7K8Ols13vmRWGaWlyqzHsBS91RHr1ynTj1zZWUQHzfjqswqrFGlJGsOIcWJ6_cVjW1XbD6emxh7BtU/s1600/photo+%252869%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGukdyB-QRXsOgZ3AVkXg5AW5uVNcnG-yVDEpHGWwsHxV60ZgiHX6t9kQHUy3X_7K8Ols13vmRWGaWlyqzHsBS91RHr1ynTj1zZWUQHzfjqswqrFGlJGsOIcWJ6_cVjW1XbD6emxh7BtU/s400/photo+%252869%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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The bottom ruffle was cut from the silver taffeta and sewn on, just over the edge of the blue strip.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6O19eO9RxUPcG11feaHMrNc6mhhSzlMKYEQZ_ledCtXi8PzwTTzqWccs00V56cSjThAFuAdxy5vPutLvHet5surrYCJNewuLlnYkPNWnCz1JvySux0D7gX4jfCjRYvKMR4SbLkm3_OOw/s1600/photo%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6O19eO9RxUPcG11feaHMrNc6mhhSzlMKYEQZ_ledCtXi8PzwTTzqWccs00V56cSjThAFuAdxy5vPutLvHet5surrYCJNewuLlnYkPNWnCz1JvySux0D7gX4jfCjRYvKMR4SbLkm3_OOw/s400/photo%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I cut out the ruffles for the top half of the skirt, and started to sew them on. In the photo below, the overskirt is just pinned into place.</div>
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At this point, I cut out the bodice from the fashion fabric. I used <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/1875-ball-gown-basque.html">Truly Victorian's TV416</a>, which was the first time I used a Truly Victorian pattern. I've always heard great things about them, so I had really high hopes that it would go together easily and fit correctly, especially since I didn't have time to do a proper mockup. I was so glad I had enough fabric for the bodice, because the large front pattern piece made me a bit nervous that I'd be short. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg49Re2LG8BPl4ASHnzTP6ZXbhVcwFa9Fax8405hAzn4WCrYvqrfwksP6xj57MbFlVy5ezH4fohjJl2G1aVoXQEKCf-rwfPUjcDxjUWLnYqInJRnVs_bwgcRcLfgiA9EUGm7kqTEVVJ69Y/s1600/photoMVWGRUWE.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg49Re2LG8BPl4ASHnzTP6ZXbhVcwFa9Fax8405hAzn4WCrYvqrfwksP6xj57MbFlVy5ezH4fohjJl2G1aVoXQEKCf-rwfPUjcDxjUWLnYqInJRnVs_bwgcRcLfgiA9EUGm7kqTEVVJ69Y/s400/photoMVWGRUWE.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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From the remaining blue taffeta, I cut two panels that would go on the train. I wanted to make sure that if the overskirt moved, that there would be blue fabric showing underneath and not the silver. I sewed the blue pieces to a panel of silver fabric to act as the top of the train. This part would be hidden by the back of the overskirt.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0vU278LhzdGIGGN2MD2TcfZr0gWXqKV6QBqXdkyKpLs3N9uoRW4swgjRHaZ5wog4_brdiVShNBo-ENOwyPbBnOBrXbcfxw9ZyUL4XYtHxZbsstXfBKZRfKBz5qzc7_DumLTHiUrsPms/s1600/photoNBPDQDBI.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0vU278LhzdGIGGN2MD2TcfZr0gWXqKV6QBqXdkyKpLs3N9uoRW4swgjRHaZ5wog4_brdiVShNBo-ENOwyPbBnOBrXbcfxw9ZyUL4XYtHxZbsstXfBKZRfKBz5qzc7_DumLTHiUrsPms/s400/photoNBPDQDBI.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The bottom half was carefully pinned and stitched into place to showcase the embroidery. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQfHonenXRu9aYV7zxqQMl1OhTgijXSus_kyq69OBzCG9cdOO4VXH3MejOuZ5JuFyvmXsCbL76c9mqkMoxlNQ298BPS2awzb9aAEjb0lBUine06zKv9NfsB7eXHUjiwr5mO47Qm5Xoj4/s1600/photo+%252876%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQfHonenXRu9aYV7zxqQMl1OhTgijXSus_kyq69OBzCG9cdOO4VXH3MejOuZ5JuFyvmXsCbL76c9mqkMoxlNQ298BPS2awzb9aAEjb0lBUine06zKv9NfsB7eXHUjiwr5mO47Qm5Xoj4/s400/photo+%252876%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The two pieces were then stitched together. To complete the look, I added a ruffle of silver underneath the edge of the train, which peeked out from underneath the overskirt and under the embroidery on the train. I think this really made it feel complete, and it tied the train in with the underskirt. It also helped to hide gap between the underskirt ruffles and the edge of the overskirt. Thankfully, this was my last ruffle, because I was pretty sick of making ruffles at this point!<br />
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Finally, I could finish the overskirt. For a while, I couldn't figure out what was bothering me about the apron front. There was something about the way it was hanging that just wasn't working. Then I realized what it was - the apron in the plate is almost flat, with only the slightest gathering at the sides, while I had made mine with deep pleats. I decided to unpin what I had so far, mess with a bit, and see if I couldn't get something I liked better. You can see the difference in the two photos below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DdpPhwFYsp1A9vh8dIaCc7hajzLy6zIL3RXM8oh5Fuov8cq72qaeCt5Ib8COY2llWExH4Zb5pHjD5bi7TFJK5VyEreZCqJ8cUP_ut7-28xelz_6CG7Q0XF8Iq8kZdR1nqoDuM1fa2OA/s1600/photo+%252875%2529.JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DdpPhwFYsp1A9vh8dIaCc7hajzLy6zIL3RXM8oh5Fuov8cq72qaeCt5Ib8COY2llWExH4Zb5pHjD5bi7TFJK5VyEreZCqJ8cUP_ut7-28xelz_6CG7Q0XF8Iq8kZdR1nqoDuM1fa2OA/s400/photo+%252875%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzpu6pEeSakSoTubXJ9j81WFJHJ-ARsIiMlTWn9uWfHTxWjEl_VKVDK6tjD0SUIIyvOilD2k8DwgnfjSbrKT4ZwArBAHbnZrSyV_ivUuNAdXJe4gSyqocmt2F9XPWS8HgM8TaoB537gzU/s1600/photo+%252843%2529.JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzpu6pEeSakSoTubXJ9j81WFJHJ-ARsIiMlTWn9uWfHTxWjEl_VKVDK6tjD0SUIIyvOilD2k8DwgnfjSbrKT4ZwArBAHbnZrSyV_ivUuNAdXJe4gSyqocmt2F9XPWS8HgM8TaoB537gzU/s400/photo+%252843%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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Much better! The embroidery gets much more of a chance to shine with the flatter apron. With that taken care of, I finished up the underskirt. I evened out the waistline on the back, attached tapes, tacked up the poufs, and added a placket. I didn't have time to finish the waistband before the event, so I do have to go back and finish that.<br />
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The train is separate from the overskirt so I can remove it for daywear. It, too, will eventually have its own waistband.<br />
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To complete the bodice, I cut out an interlining layer from a bit of duck canvas, and some lining from the silver taffeta. I omitted the bodice boning because of time issues, but I think I'll eventually go back and add it in. Otherwise, the bodice went together really quickly, and I even had enough of the blue left to make covered buttons from. I think it might be fun to go back at some point and add silver sequins to the buttons to make the a bit flashier, but they're perfectly serviceable as they are.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDL_AXwVBdUs7CVme1tr-ApKNF80DYdW5fd6DxwlKo-KNTg-jazUHqpyvHzrdch3YJQj9lJKz8YxHvRHIwQv31ZZHsHc9kRmvei0-_K1qbNvGKPgVggHhju0HFgKFXv7mxGFHbNFozVnE/s1600/photo+%252878%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDL_AXwVBdUs7CVme1tr-ApKNF80DYdW5fd6DxwlKo-KNTg-jazUHqpyvHzrdch3YJQj9lJKz8YxHvRHIwQv31ZZHsHc9kRmvei0-_K1qbNvGKPgVggHhju0HFgKFXv7mxGFHbNFozVnE/s400/photo+%252878%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><u>Daytime Look </u></b><br />
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I must have been a little bit insane, because I decided that instead of trying to make an older costume work for the brunch outing on Soiree Sunday, I would instead make a daytime option for this dress. I had <i>just</i> enough of the silver fabric left to eek out a Burda 7880, though I did have to do some piecing on the peplum.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1iGXncZswWFTQl1nUjbIlbOgrYamJMQOWixiIYVrcX8ZOlLpH7AJisRfE6MHyCteWtDalwK_46UGiSDXO6e1cbuOXSzo49uFOZBUQb7uVqsArFbaHZeWLhA9gtaopjiknL4VkP9gvuhE/s1600/photo+%252879%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1296" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1iGXncZswWFTQl1nUjbIlbOgrYamJMQOWixiIYVrcX8ZOlLpH7AJisRfE6MHyCteWtDalwK_46UGiSDXO6e1cbuOXSzo49uFOZBUQb7uVqsArFbaHZeWLhA9gtaopjiknL4VkP9gvuhE/s400/photo+%252879%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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All that was left after that was a few tiny scraps, so I used some black taffeta as a lining, and made the center front panel out of some remaining blue taffeta. The piece I used was actually from the top edge, where I had undone the wide hem stitching, so it was free of any spangled bits. I actually like the plain blue and am glad there weren't any sequin patches, since it makes it look a little more toned down and daytime appropriate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GUILDOn8NvT7iZByB_ebLxZwM0j8wpHWlrJwXeLJlyBw762ApBZjgc2qCdmzy_6AWhT7WlVQiiAvjFpmpT-nLjQ96EQFsOsBSoRwqdNyJQBVDPMUlU_T0pEro7YzkRVu4etYTB1dZ90/s1600/photo+%252843%2529.JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GUILDOn8NvT7iZByB_ebLxZwM0j8wpHWlrJwXeLJlyBw762ApBZjgc2qCdmzy_6AWhT7WlVQiiAvjFpmpT-nLjQ96EQFsOsBSoRwqdNyJQBVDPMUlU_T0pEro7YzkRVu4etYTB1dZ90/s400/photo+%252843%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZrtF-y64m-qZjRrzUYAVmFD4G1E1cjPjhlU8di3anIPEKrWRwJQhoIX3-FDOfcYhyaZxmW6aaj_MW9J9VLoU244xlxsSQQ67guuMmpOIdXoSwLfmGEmEDiwl1Zf-itbeyxiofyKdrtg/s1600/photo+%252859%2529.JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZrtF-y64m-qZjRrzUYAVmFD4G1E1cjPjhlU8di3anIPEKrWRwJQhoIX3-FDOfcYhyaZxmW6aaj_MW9J9VLoU244xlxsSQQ67guuMmpOIdXoSwLfmGEmEDiwl1Zf-itbeyxiofyKdrtg/s400/photo+%252859%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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Amazingly, I still had enough of the blue left to make the buttons for this bodice, so I covered another 17 buttons and added them to the front.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtTpmiDxuoVp8Ewbm04r6AAOU6W2wN2aLmIGjBAWRklTXUHzXs18h_jPpt2k_huser-D_6lfxx_9gQYLW7pwoy2ldiIfRQ51SZF4rr73WnBD5P02NW0oJV2ZgqT_pfJeB_mXaux-R1Q8/s1600/photo+%252877%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtTpmiDxuoVp8Ewbm04r6AAOU6W2wN2aLmIGjBAWRklTXUHzXs18h_jPpt2k_huser-D_6lfxx_9gQYLW7pwoy2ldiIfRQ51SZF4rr73WnBD5P02NW0oJV2ZgqT_pfJeB_mXaux-R1Q8/s400/photo+%252877%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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My final verdict on the dress, both versions is that it's <i>okay</i>, but I don't love it. It feels very unfinished, and there are things that I would like to go back and fix or add to.<br />
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Because of the time crunch, I wasn't able to do a proper mockup or fitting of the TV bodice, and there were some weird fit issues that I wasn't aware of until the evening of the event. The body of the bodice fit just fine, but for some reason the neckline was <i>huge</i>. I don't exactly have narrow shoulders, but this bodice kept gapping in a huge and terrible way, and I was terrified all night that I was going to have a wardrobe malfunction of superbowl proportions. Don't sew in a hurry, kids, you'll end up with Issues.<br />
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What I <i>do</i> love about the evening version is how flashy it is! That silver embroidery is a showstopper, and I really wish I'd had more of that fabric so I could really have a whiz-bang overskirt. I now think that there probably needs to be a silver ruffle around the bottom edge of the underskirt. Originally I wanted the embroidery from one layer to another to just flow together, but I think now the overall look might benefit from the visual separation.<br />
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I'd also like to go in with some sequins and take the embroidery up the rest of the blue fill-in panel on the train so it doesn't end so abruptly. You can see the filler panel in the second photo below, and while it isn't jarring, it would be nice to have the border pattern continue all the way up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Oi_8wd_zcDKuSSWPnjzXNad90G_l18VcCqC74suJv33RcvUvF8UeawBSuu0ogIYZQpREFZ8akXqyi00QhQFp-rV7ILoK9kvYYCdBGoqrQSGeNvUPZsPDaBqi5w2m83Ld4mrnA1wO190/s1600/25337627767_8d88459e5a_k.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Oi_8wd_zcDKuSSWPnjzXNad90G_l18VcCqC74suJv33RcvUvF8UeawBSuu0ogIYZQpREFZ8akXqyi00QhQFp-rV7ILoK9kvYYCdBGoqrQSGeNvUPZsPDaBqi5w2m83Ld4mrnA1wO190/s400/25337627767_8d88459e5a_k.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QS0u7aYCERYBt3yjbDidM6ei6xpKjDF2_bBi4OVUcHc1OOrFpLSjjxipZHufW2tuDc-PzppXQEru3MWhHMIJSscBbNUb7iqlePoGioZu3ZUzCSpGeT5sRFJObjiIHJKDI6R2QSVbfeg/s1600/39497513194_73c7ce6b14_k.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QS0u7aYCERYBt3yjbDidM6ei6xpKjDF2_bBi4OVUcHc1OOrFpLSjjxipZHufW2tuDc-PzppXQEru3MWhHMIJSscBbNUb7iqlePoGioZu3ZUzCSpGeT5sRFJObjiIHJKDI6R2QSVbfeg/s400/39497513194_73c7ce6b14_k.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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For the daytime look, I wore the gown without the train, and with the day bodice. I made the largest size that the Burda bodice came in, and it was still rather snug. I could get into it and button it just fine, but the sleeves were tight, and I had some wrinkles on the bodice. I think the wrinkles could be eliminated with some bodice boning, though, so it's not unsalvageable. The pattern does not call for any boning, so if you make up this pattern you may want to add it in. <br />
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I'm sure my new corset contributed to the bodice wrinkle issue, as well. My old corset only had shaping in the seams, while the new one has bust and hip gussets, which definitely gives a curvier silhouette. I should have adjusted the bodice pattern to account for the more pronounced difference between bust and waist, but time didn't allow me to do a mockup or account for anything like that. (I made the day bodice in just two days, in the hours after work, so rush job doesn't even begin to cover it!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZOkJvHrq9mK_zBPWzZlTDy74W6rIKH20B_WwzMS4ySgtiSNfVUXGDCqm89LRwtkAbTZ5fniBjGAiNtaSh3ChG1VzEqc6NeQu1qncPYF3vfxtLxQ8XA0joQJwUDeRB_5vLqV3sgXisNQY/s1600/photo+%252860%2529.JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZOkJvHrq9mK_zBPWzZlTDy74W6rIKH20B_WwzMS4ySgtiSNfVUXGDCqm89LRwtkAbTZ5fniBjGAiNtaSh3ChG1VzEqc6NeQu1qncPYF3vfxtLxQ8XA0joQJwUDeRB_5vLqV3sgXisNQY/s400/photo+%252860%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVk_d_mt3suHf2efKVC0-fGtuiQALWTIvGI8kM-JcnWiKitQvKRy411E1CdQ-jwt4NXypvSK7o1bTXQqBRB239XLjc02PKF6rnuSVCR-5MtAv0RDE0tqA_nQaeIj1Bcal0fBzVIVWtj4/s1600/photo+%252880%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="968" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVk_d_mt3suHf2efKVC0-fGtuiQALWTIvGI8kM-JcnWiKitQvKRy411E1CdQ-jwt4NXypvSK7o1bTXQqBRB239XLjc02PKF6rnuSVCR-5MtAv0RDE0tqA_nQaeIj1Bcal0fBzVIVWtj4/s400/photo+%252880%2529.JPG" width="298" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVk_d_mt3suHf2efKVC0-fGtuiQALWTIvGI8kM-JcnWiKitQvKRy411E1CdQ-jwt4NXypvSK7o1bTXQqBRB239XLjc02PKF6rnuSVCR-5MtAv0RDE0tqA_nQaeIj1Bcal0fBzVIVWtj4/s1600/photo+%252880%2529.JPG"></a></div>
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If I could miraculously find that same blue taffeta, minus the embroidery, I would like to make a new overskirt for the daytime look. The day bodice tones down the look considerably, but the overskirt looks somewhat unfinished without the train. I think a plain blue overskirt, or an overskirt in the silver with some blue accents, would really make the daytime look new and fabulous.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_62XIaSoCnv3tSwStnUk1U_h7waZsugpcn1SAqGIY2LItqQHQnXjLstQ0Gq5a02tsJJwC8Ae-AyPWdxLfUSe00obgJVArz3lEkSNaP7XLI8QVb1nmh1Mf90za1KWdETmjTCDzO72LaQE/s1600/26354096818_cb16475265_k.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_62XIaSoCnv3tSwStnUk1U_h7waZsugpcn1SAqGIY2LItqQHQnXjLstQ0Gq5a02tsJJwC8Ae-AyPWdxLfUSe00obgJVArz3lEkSNaP7XLI8QVb1nmh1Mf90za1KWdETmjTCDzO72LaQE/s400/26354096818_cb16475265_k.jpg" width="300" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu3RIfEBJiwzu4KPTNRpsA2XuSavjsMejQI_hzPs0Dbu3XGbDLy6ZV587PAAq_vebwWddBEbLvdHkmB2BF2q-JKThHHc_uaKEYGEDlewt8QvrAWq8WC-kz8EVV1rPVAzYMz_jwpkNPDU4/s1600/25355444597_3fb73026d0_k.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu3RIfEBJiwzu4KPTNRpsA2XuSavjsMejQI_hzPs0Dbu3XGbDLy6ZV587PAAq_vebwWddBEbLvdHkmB2BF2q-JKThHHc_uaKEYGEDlewt8QvrAWq8WC-kz8EVV1rPVAzYMz_jwpkNPDU4/s400/25355444597_3fb73026d0_k.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I still have mixed feelings about the transitional period. At first, I wasn't a huge fan of the hoop + bustle look, and I felt a little too columnar. This may be due to the fact that the overskirt doesn't fit over the crinoline/bustle combination as well as it should because of the limited amount of fabric available. Ideally, I would have liked to have put the entire 5 yards into the overskirt alone. I think that if it had a bit more room to move, then it might not have clung to the skirt supports as it did, and may have fallen a bit more gracefully.<br />
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Compared to the width of the skirt, I don't think the bustle in the back is large enough, and it rides a bit too high. I admit, this is probably because of corner-cutting on my part because of time contraints - I had finished the crinoline part of the transitional hoop in time, but not the bustle part, so I wore a bumpad over the crinoline instead. I think the bustle should ride much lower, and that there really needs to be more backward motion to make the look more balanced. I <i>did</i> like that the hoop kept the skirts out from between my feet, though.<br />
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Overall, there are a lot of things I do like about these dresses. I love the large number of ruffles (I wish I'd had enough fabric to make a couple of more on the underskirt, just so the look continued all the way under the overskirt) and the colors of the fabrics. I've seen a couple of fashion plates that have this same gray/electric blue combination, so even though it looks a little extreme, the color combo is actually period. If I'm lucky, I may be able to find more of the blue or the silver fabric, and I can tweak things so they look a bit more put together.</div>
Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-80135067043483265982017-12-24T11:35:00.004-06:002017-12-28T00:47:42.231-06:002017 in Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMVj7clDLlyDdBFtp_nyMgzlLQBaDPVEdLGgtd4x7Zr2TpDCMenjywrC_C8tiNYExC8uQPDeihUi7vZTsyrm-Ok-CjJNDxkxbyfjJVc2ehhjwpXX_LD57R7E0YS5CESOCNNhznxAwS_U/s1600/yinr2017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="274" data-original-width="547" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMVj7clDLlyDdBFtp_nyMgzlLQBaDPVEdLGgtd4x7Zr2TpDCMenjywrC_C8tiNYExC8uQPDeihUi7vZTsyrm-Ok-CjJNDxkxbyfjJVc2ehhjwpXX_LD57R7E0YS5CESOCNNhznxAwS_U/s640/yinr2017.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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What a mess of a year this has been. You know how everyone lamented how horrible 2016 was? Well, 2017 has been my own personal dumpster fire. Between trying to pay off a mountain of debts, find a new job, getting slowly pushed out of my current living situation, and trying to find a new house, it's been all I can do to make a stitch in something new here or there. This entire year has been one long, horrible, exhausting battle, and I am <i>not </i>sorry to see it go. <br />
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So what did I actually get done? Well, I did manage two full dresses at the beginning of the year, a couple of new undies, and a couple of accessories. I finished the embroidered stomacher I began working on ages ago, and I dipped my toe (haha) into remaking shoes. I began and abandoned many projects this year, many of them just one or two small details away from finishing. Hopefully, I can actually pull myself together next year and clear out the UFO pile a bit. <br />
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Here's a look at the very few things I managed to actually finish in 2017.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Dresses</b></div>
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<a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-chocolate-truffle-bustle-dress.html"><img alt="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-chocolate-truffle-bustle-dress.html" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMf8ZBPnB7K5tYWDdobuiPwx_uWgR2KgFfAExOq8Kp_r4hr5AsMLtTOlIQJCP0Cq6m4Sh7QajWOriT-xAok4ClHN4O46zc7kzqs17tRQjeOng23x_LkI9djaGRjH933St5Ju3g_PFMqIop/s1600/ct01.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/03/a-blue-chintz-18thc-gown.html"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmc9hQBIym9pu6KwCT0hI_OfqyL-GGywQ4QyXKFlW_8s7XRRecSBOBYHlyDJXW9GXWUhBj2ER9afb-VIHnWYunMyhG4o46pOv9Xh7DNRAkqePSZfSESm26MgNzTtZF3DXbl21AhtANNvU/s1600/chintz.JPG" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOpQX3ddsHguEtxEC_5cPwO0vAg0H3swX4GaviMio_KKhAO8SAjPl_Fa6ixWPn8Fe_1PdEZDVOM6itAoHjKP5zZAQSzHTBytqNGFkHyAsBJvTlRN59Uqy_BTwjSEy3DG78lM0rod6Y94/s1600/charcoaldress.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOpQX3ddsHguEtxEC_5cPwO0vAg0H3swX4GaviMio_KKhAO8SAjPl_Fa6ixWPn8Fe_1PdEZDVOM6itAoHjKP5zZAQSzHTBytqNGFkHyAsBJvTlRN59Uqy_BTwjSEy3DG78lM0rod6Y94/s1600/charcoaldress.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/12/a-19-teens-purple-taffeta-dress.html"><img alt="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/12/a-19-teens-purple-taffeta-dress.html" border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_9khctEMYL486VHIJZhy8LDiVlX1kNAxfnuIP5gmJ6boR_oRntjgxUxHUJ8R1Ypltyhc10UkTPuYSGTGV-IoJOL2rh-HFH-kHACitbW3lwWhaZ8iZSNK3GrSJ4EdrSZafX0cV-Q5JXIo/s1600/purpleteens.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b><br />Undies</b></div>
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<a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/12/great-great-granny-panties-pair-of-1874.html"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSb9pdONOy4_fDIyC94hePoHEBBh4lqORXKpBRQpEbRWJCg5T8f84ueAeUQ-4EEfwBoLXXTKKtKV5XLp0tjQy5Waa__2eT2yBNb8R34hF6F5keJQ7EbtUcy1fiUFslyTzu8JcuzSkP9Q/s1600/1874drawersicon.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/04/a-modest-gold-pannier.html"><img alt="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/04/a-modest-gold-pannier.html" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZrspoT-nu6C71kVf-PasFOehakavV-tCkRpyQiJI_w9RAUflduJa07f4cX8wJNYQFEUKzo_WcJYxki25q7ZPgyKQBvU5jFEOP1w01Vw0CPnNxnuE8ikTs20dDOhdozP1daSUYYbYnmg/s1600/gp1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>Accessories</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkFheb9JPdKwOej3EyF3Zf4I0A_QkZq-ahojWDSHTyu19ntpbTWvizYMDBRGLg7Np_sD7lw0ht2oCvXWFe6E_CfPN1X_ioyntzptx0jTcsm30EC5cZRuaHrsI0VDDYgDZDm3kjF5JJn0/s1600/es1.JPG"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkFheb9JPdKwOej3EyF3Zf4I0A_QkZq-ahojWDSHTyu19ntpbTWvizYMDBRGLg7Np_sD7lw0ht2oCvXWFe6E_CfPN1X_ioyntzptx0jTcsm30EC5cZRuaHrsI0VDDYgDZDm3kjF5JJn0/s1600/es1.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/04/blue-gold-18th-century-shoes.html"><img alt="http://mistress-of-disguise.blogspot.com/2017/04/blue-gold-18th-century-shoes.html" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZVD4Z1q-JNn9sdwEJrVX39Yx8Sep-Qm7fWLeMuzPjHouMSplMU1C7rsyULwhafyZhhzsYfWUrnVi-5yHmzZ4_XcP82TgSp4pWtQPAW9yndyn5Z14sIdJRTLI7MdG0uhNX8I5VLBa8Go/s1600/bgshoes.JPG" /></a></div>
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Originally, I planned to go through all my sewing goals and tell you just how I had done with them, but I didn't even touch 90% of them this year, so there's really no point. I didn't make any new outerwear, or any new full sets of undies. I didn't make anything new for M <i>at all</i>. <br />
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Will 2018 be any different? Who knows! I know that I'll be moving into a new house, so that will be eating up at least a little bit of time while we close, move, and settle into the new place, wherever and whenever it happens to be. There are good things planned for next year, like traveling to Paris for the <i>Fetes Galantes</i> and visiting Germany on the same trip. The Victorian Soiree is going to be exciting and fun, with almost two dozen costumers already signed up to go. I'm planning on heading back to the Francaise Dinner in Virginia, and I'm taking M with me. The Guild is revamping how they do events, so instead of one event every month, it's now one BIG event, like the Soiree, every quarter. I'm eager to see how this plays out, and hopefully it means an excuse to make more evening wear, since I love it so. <br />
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Goals for 2018:<br />
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<b>New Regency Ballgown. </b>I love the green ballgown, and it always gets compliments, but I'm a little tired of wearing it to <i>every</i> Regency evening event. I picked up a new length of sky blue embroidered taffeta, and I'll be whipping something up for a 12th Night dance in January. <br />
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<b>Finish the ivory and blue sacque for the Francaise dinner</b>. It's nearly there, I just ran out of steam when it didn't get done in time for the event it was intended for. <br />
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<b>Finish the two embroidered 18thC waistcoats for M</b>. Both of them are very close. The cream and black waistcoat just needs buttonholes and final assembly. The silk waistcoat is slightly further from completion, but I learned a lot by doing the second one, so I feel confident that I can finally finish it properly.<br />
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<b>Make the embroidered coat and breeches for M for Fetes Galantes</b>. Because of the Soiree, I may have to end up machine embroidering the coat panels, but at this point, I don't mind, as long as it gets done. By the time the Soiree is over, I'll only have three months to make his suit, so anything that cuts down on production time would be helpful. Although, I do like to have a project to take with me to work, since I so often have down time that I can work on hand-sewing. We'll see where things are in life and the universe once the Soiree is over.<br />
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<b>Something new for M for the Francaise Dinner?</b> Maybe? I'm shooting to have the cream and black waistcoat finished, at least, but am also contemplating a new coat for him. I did pick up a black brocade that he'd been eyeballing, and it would make a great compliment to the black embroidery on the waistcoat, so we'll see. <br />
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<b>Costumes for CoCo</b>. The only dress I'm 100% sure I'm making is the dinner gown from Titanic, for a group thing. Otherwise....I have no idea. Hopefully ideas will come together as the event gets closer.<br />
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<b>TrekCon in Vegas</b>. It's the 25th anniversary of Deep Space Nine! I MUST GO. FOR CARDASSIA!<br />
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<b>Finish at least three big UFOs. </b>I need to whittle down my UFO pile by...a lot. I want to tackle all those poor abandoned projects that I actually loved but didn't finish in time for their intended event. The ivory and blue sacque, the 1890s red and white dress, and The Great Pumpkin levite all come to mind.<br />
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I hope everyone has a fabulous New Year, and I'm looking forward to see how well I can stick to my goals and how many projects I can actually finish in 2018! Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-48384947798612611012017-12-18T09:25:00.001-06:002017-12-18T09:25:55.436-06:00A 19-Teens Purple Taffeta Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVtEEAyfceEMo1gSwosU-Z9fTOzNy5CuZ7l06_PwZPL0Juy7b8FgU9Fluz89NVxqp0GAkRkyG83oTNye87G8Ji9l4hn3ye0mX5g2PwEOmgwpIfsfhyphenhyphenF26kRwnxdlDIlEG_860yRl90Ew/s1600/22528460_10214766209014129_7983005335848572802_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVtEEAyfceEMo1gSwosU-Z9fTOzNy5CuZ7l06_PwZPL0Juy7b8FgU9Fluz89NVxqp0GAkRkyG83oTNye87G8Ji9l4hn3ye0mX5g2PwEOmgwpIfsfhyphenhyphenF26kRwnxdlDIlEG_860yRl90Ew/s640/22528460_10214766209014129_7983005335848572802_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So, this is actually a dress I made a few months ago. I've been waiting for better pictures to surface from the photographer, but that doesn't look like it's going to happen anytime soon, so I'll just post about this dress with what I have!</div>
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Back when I made this dress, I was deeply entrenched in all things 18th-century, but I took a quick detour into 1912-land to make a dress for my sister's wedding. I was one of her bridesmaids, and her only requirement was that we all wear purple. It didn't even have to be the same color or fabric. The other girls <em>did </em>ended up choosing dresses in the same color, so I asked the shop for a sample of the fabric, and headed to the design district to find something that matched. I managed to find a really lovely taffeta in exactly the same color, so I bought what was left on the bolt, and then put it on a shelf while I tried to come up with an idea of what kind of dress I wanted.</div>
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The fabric itself really is lovely (I had actually eyeballed it before, and was really pleased when it turned out to be a match!), and I wanted to make something that I would be able to wear again. The other girls had all bought short, sleevless cocktail dresses, but I don't wear short...anything, and a cocktail dress would have been banished to the back of the closet, likely never to see the light of day again. I toyed with a few different designs, and time ticked away, and I finally had to make a quick decision.<br />
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I eventually dug up the Butterick cross-front 1912-ish pattern. I had used it before to make a quick dress for an Edwardian event, so I knew its quirks and various fit issues. First off, I had to use the largest size, because I have taco-ed myself right out of Butterick's sizing. I knew it would still fit in the bust and waist, but my hips are several inches larger than their largest size. This may not be entirely a fast-food issue, though, as several others who have made the pattern have mentioned that it is tight through the hips when making the size straight from the pattern. I adjusted the hips before cutting the fabric so I knew they would fit.<br />
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I cut out the gown one evening after work, and then poked around online to find a bit more inspiration. Looking at the gown pinned to the mannequin it looked so...plain. It was a wall of purple taffeta, it needed <i>something </i>to break it up. Finally, I came across this lovely dress.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwgh-kAxWn2yGJcwq1lmi33q1pd0DCu-7aj8IFff1g13DmSpWatFePe_wZbhFjQUPfanHl1hZHaabapmsMUCvVnho8ZiJrDjRQDGvXknfVON6ekAorAMOhCjcZ8KrVkazHj4MFoln5dbw/s1600/purple-1912-1986-20-1-detailsm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="683" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwgh-kAxWn2yGJcwq1lmi33q1pd0DCu-7aj8IFff1g13DmSpWatFePe_wZbhFjQUPfanHl1hZHaabapmsMUCvVnho8ZiJrDjRQDGvXknfVON6ekAorAMOhCjcZ8KrVkazHj4MFoln5dbw/s400/purple-1912-1986-20-1-detailsm.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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It's nearly the same color as my dress, so I immediately gravitated to it, and it has the low cross-front like the pattern. I hit the fabric warehouses to try and find a deep purple velvet that I could use to accent the dress, and came home with a deep purple acetate velvet. It wasn't ideal, but it would do.<br />
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I had purchased three yards of the velvet, with the idea that I would make the underskirt in the velvet, as well as the accents. I initially didn't think it would be enough, but I ended up being able to make everything just as I had planned! <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiupSVgaAekRkRPsl6HZqt9Sru2CGuDw4PguN-7KiAaaMh7GJMBGX3l7XlWbPwXgdfskSUwI6Z_8pF3KfdUwdMzgYcsbPxbNRDxqlA6klevpOVCJDhc4jWNQgBVCP4aYVIY1FzAQvTi4uA/s1600/22449751_1501401926607856_9125523611660232732_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="717" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiupSVgaAekRkRPsl6HZqt9Sru2CGuDw4PguN-7KiAaaMh7GJMBGX3l7XlWbPwXgdfskSUwI6Z_8pF3KfdUwdMzgYcsbPxbNRDxqlA6klevpOVCJDhc4jWNQgBVCP4aYVIY1FzAQvTi4uA/s400/22449751_1501401926607856_9125523611660232732_n.jpg" width="298" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJbJZoivAJ0HAGa_iUVKNHoD2hMrAQh8qh_qXjjGH3Ty-2NsjXGRmb-i3W3w8vgK3PzjdTxor_uzB05FeJHzjhjNDn71SrDaTgOu-PY33z1JzRBQYRiB21PmGyIU0C1PkvbKhEmHpZEos/s1600/22310695_1501402146607834_4819691270810148680_n.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="717" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJbJZoivAJ0HAGa_iUVKNHoD2hMrAQh8qh_qXjjGH3Ty-2NsjXGRmb-i3W3w8vgK3PzjdTxor_uzB05FeJHzjhjNDn71SrDaTgOu-PY33z1JzRBQYRiB21PmGyIU0C1PkvbKhEmHpZEos/s400/22310695_1501402146607834_4819691270810148680_n.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Terrible cell-phone pics are terrible.</em></td></tr>
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There was one piece of scrap velvet that ended up the perfect size and shape for the little sash-y bit where it peeks out from the skirt overlap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5B34E160_Moly4IjnxEx8rNsecB8sSZESVUgog3-0djL9CWhj6mQHtAPvhetrST3Mj3etzombmLHMCzNnSWZR59kcRZ7rvRjWSzctwxFf1LlfeZ9_vxkpEkyRil66lYYzC89rI6KNW8/s1600/22491832_1501402203274495_9212957498557319945_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="717" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5B34E160_Moly4IjnxEx8rNsecB8sSZESVUgog3-0djL9CWhj6mQHtAPvhetrST3Mj3etzombmLHMCzNnSWZR59kcRZ7rvRjWSzctwxFf1LlfeZ9_vxkpEkyRil66lYYzC89rI6KNW8/s400/22491832_1501402203274495_9212957498557319945_n.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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I ended up <i>really</i> happy with this dress. I didn't expect to love the outcome of a quick dress like this as much as I did. I'm excited that I have another Teens dress available to use for future events, too, since this is an era I love, but am sorely lacking in my closet. I do plan to go back and fit a few fit issues, and maybe make the little sheer purple top underneath it. <br />
<br />Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7440011596489093932.post-15373400466657786132017-12-06T12:47:00.000-06:002017-12-06T15:33:44.905-06:00A Brief Look at Men's Fashion in the 1870s<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-hjZgcGt5FCW6_gHLSIpetdj9MlqDIBdDPHfMt6eF1q6qKIe3ojQ-fF1IhfQiugEObIRNDiVDEvEiRCDQLK2KcSNE8PSSGYOZTM_9lPUkxY9RrxMMowkAckvl-5hgkA1SRkz_TXkHvGI/s1600/991e507081aeeacdd21d41f937397e02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1154" data-original-width="1600" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-hjZgcGt5FCW6_gHLSIpetdj9MlqDIBdDPHfMt6eF1q6qKIe3ojQ-fF1IhfQiugEObIRNDiVDEvEiRCDQLK2KcSNE8PSSGYOZTM_9lPUkxY9RrxMMowkAckvl-5hgkA1SRkz_TXkHvGI/s640/991e507081aeeacdd21d41f937397e02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was really surprised when my sweetheart said that he wanted to join me during the Victorian weekend that's coming up in February. I had figured he would want to attend the symphony, but not that he would want to go to brunch with everyone the next day. This, while making me very happy, also meant that I needed to make him an entirely new set of Victorian day clothes. I literally only had one Victorian-era piece, the black coat I made for him for an event several years ago.</div>
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I wanted to make him something that would roughly correspond with the time period of my outfits, so I started digging around for fashion plates of men's 1870s fashions. There were a few plates available online; there weren't many, but enough to give me an idea of the changes to men's styles between the 1870s and the previous decade.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8d3mjdbKNSJcJyXSP-vbORrHS09wttFGfa62r34K0WSzhtpNC6JjjyjsIqt2aHdbL86jh6zEEjFeATliLClwXbwdssZg20GBlm5VID-WSYAQ7XHGSqd3AXpnrcpbon5CZb7wekGcaqg/s1600/1874+fashions_93+men.png"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1292" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8d3mjdbKNSJcJyXSP-vbORrHS09wttFGfa62r34K0WSzhtpNC6JjjyjsIqt2aHdbL86jh6zEEjFeATliLClwXbwdssZg20GBlm5VID-WSYAQ7XHGSqd3AXpnrcpbon5CZb7wekGcaqg/s320/1874+fashions_93+men.png" width="258" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgMtja2LuVh_NxL7_kzUP99gWvwfXCEAMzwLrf00SaQYxUDv-rnb1-03Djm188Jrl41ud81CW5sjxVDCzk65w38zTQSPC-DjLoRZw-NsB0IGMF00kuG4Bdmx21p_7z8DNOEOAkfz91FkA/s1600/1874+fashions_95+men.png"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1291" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgMtja2LuVh_NxL7_kzUP99gWvwfXCEAMzwLrf00SaQYxUDv-rnb1-03Djm188Jrl41ud81CW5sjxVDCzk65w38zTQSPC-DjLoRZw-NsB0IGMF00kuG4Bdmx21p_7z8DNOEOAkfz91FkA/s320/1874+fashions_95+men.png" width="258" /></a></div>
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Looking at the fashion plates I had found, I could tell a few important fit details that would peg the look firmly in the mid-70s, and not in an earlier decade. <br />
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The fit of trouser legs is one of the most changeable parts of men's fashion. Usually the fit of the leg will give away a time period if nothing else does. In the mid-70s, trousers were fairly relaxed, with the bottom half of the leg staying the same size all the way to the hem. Compare the images above, with the one below, which is from 1866.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh3N3j-QHodaWcR5NLcI8ILAES_KRoKM6OGeLxOm36AixAgu396hLt9cqq6z7DGMs9hTS88PjFTokNaG1ubLfu4xDu8Re5X8YxGeT04fxg2QVjEQGRbz49sCX7vjYQWRLBuymYWf6FLPE/s1600/1866+fashions_14+men.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1049" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh3N3j-QHodaWcR5NLcI8ILAES_KRoKM6OGeLxOm36AixAgu396hLt9cqq6z7DGMs9hTS88PjFTokNaG1ubLfu4xDu8Re5X8YxGeT04fxg2QVjEQGRbz49sCX7vjYQWRLBuymYWf6FLPE/s400/1866+fashions_14+men.jpg" width="261" /></a></div>
In '66, the leg was much more tapered toward the hem, and the leg was overall much narrower. In either decade there is almost no break at the top of the shoe, yet the back of the leg is only an inch or so off the ground. The trouser hem was actually cut at an angle so it would taper away from the front of the foot. This angle is less pronounced in the 70s than it was in the 60s.<br />
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Other small changes can happen over a short number of years. Compare the two frock coats in the images below. The right is from 1866, the left is from 1874.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuvt64p_OURbh2RGm8e25boElQx6cvHNIdZGubtBF_PyJouDED3rqjCzJCdoldZR11qkvIIhLxwocFCx9c2FLWpbiqNni_K1_1eoEIXYbBiGDYjA2sy8JMGGzdF9wazSA_-XGSSyfXuG0/s1600/1874+fashions_93+men.png"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1292" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuvt64p_OURbh2RGm8e25boElQx6cvHNIdZGubtBF_PyJouDED3rqjCzJCdoldZR11qkvIIhLxwocFCx9c2FLWpbiqNni_K1_1eoEIXYbBiGDYjA2sy8JMGGzdF9wazSA_-XGSSyfXuG0/s320/1874+fashions_93+men.png" width="258" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqEJjfJ0PeBUfwAewbSKz4nU754Iv8_y1z40uS9RQ2IORy0X1ZlHK_RfqHe8xtTQLjnUta0dBV_ChHZGxaUOJbT51fO09yNP9y8WrfZGlozYVfvGzKFtsS-EqGpGwbAk2Eh8d1Au6660E/s1600/1866+fashions_17+men.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1213" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqEJjfJ0PeBUfwAewbSKz4nU754Iv8_y1z40uS9RQ2IORy0X1ZlHK_RfqHe8xtTQLjnUta0dBV_ChHZGxaUOJbT51fO09yNP9y8WrfZGlozYVfvGzKFtsS-EqGpGwbAk2Eh8d1Au6660E/s320/1866+fashions_17+men.jpg" width="242" /></a></div>
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The two images are very similar, but there are small differences. The narrower leg of the '66 trouser is the first big difference. The shape of the sleeve is also somewhat different - there is less fullness at the elbow in the '74 sleeve, while the shape of the elbow is somewhat exaggerated and pointier in the '66 coat. This often gave the sleeve a somewhat baggy appearance, as in the photo of Lincoln, where his coat sleeve is narrow at the wrist, but quite voluminous at the elbow. Mr. Powell, on the right, has a more fitted sleeve. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHUonbNpOe997n8HF6ySmY1qx4Hvp_9ASjnH5smbp5OESOixjSE5LH6rP1NHLCMfDqcJm2-DIGlU2OR85gyU46LxI0WtVtB08SvfhyJjQ7I3bNApOwz6j-iatCbWf1sbAiEYzGlb00NI/s1600/Abraham_Lincoln_O-84_by_Brady%252C_1864.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1281" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHUonbNpOe997n8HF6ySmY1qx4Hvp_9ASjnH5smbp5OESOixjSE5LH6rP1NHLCMfDqcJm2-DIGlU2OR85gyU46LxI0WtVtB08SvfhyJjQ7I3bNApOwz6j-iatCbWf1sbAiEYzGlb00NI/s320/Abraham_Lincoln_O-84_by_Brady%252C_1864.jpg" width="256" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigSXE8u2U_YPsprh9TgNMtzQ2gneKJIwPhPwtK6q1WWWog9Z3Jr6Wrz8O9FY9DDNIMdddMYHNxq10c4NLfqbIbBcfgBBx4DKZbq1g6JOmk4GJBxgkAA3_vRVZ2XggurCLOGsyqaNH-Yd8/s1600/F7C2D235-155D-451F-6723C3056750E2B0.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigSXE8u2U_YPsprh9TgNMtzQ2gneKJIwPhPwtK6q1WWWog9Z3Jr6Wrz8O9FY9DDNIMdddMYHNxq10c4NLfqbIbBcfgBBx4DKZbq1g6JOmk4GJBxgkAA3_vRVZ2XggurCLOGsyqaNH-Yd8/s320/F7C2D235-155D-451F-6723C3056750E2B0.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;"><i>Formal portrait of John Wesley Powell, 1874</i><br />
<i>Grand Canyon National Park collection</i></td></tr>
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The final minor difference is in the false cuff - both the '66 coat and the '74 coat include these false cuffs, and both have piping to visually separate the cuff from the rest of the sleeve. In the '70s, though, these cuffs usually had decorative buttons included, where in the '60s they were left plain. It wasn't a hard and fast rule that ones in the 70s had buttons, though, as you can see above in Mr. Powell's portrait. He has no buttons on his cuff. <br />
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The changes in fit were subtle, but there. But what about <i>style?</i> Taste in individual fashions is very much a personal choice, but it's always rather fun to see what contemporaries were saying about current trends. <br />
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For instance, in January of 1874, a tailor wrote a letter to the editor of <i>Gazette of Fashion and Cutting-Room Companion<b>, </b></i>bemoaning the Ulster overcoat.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">"I have the form of the Ulster overcoat more immediately in mind in penning these remarks, as its appearance can scarcely be defended by anyone with the slightest claim to taste. ...even taking the best in styles, there is little to be said for the shape. Let a customer be ever so well made, his figure is so completely concealed by this garment that no difference would be detected between him and another man whose waist was nearly as large round as his breast. Unfortunately, also, as if to make the ugliness still more apparent, a tailor will induce or allow a customer not exceeding five feet five inches, or thereabouts, in height, and slim in proportion, to adopt this form. The consequence is that he presents a most pitiable appearance..."</span></blockquote>
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Ouch! It seems that Mr. "T.K." was in the minority, though, because Ulsters were wildly popular, and remained so for decades. <br />
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French fashions are discussed in the same volume, with the author noting that even though French fashions don't reign supreme in England, that they still might be adopted eventually, so attention should be paid. He mentions that sleeves in France were cut much wider and fuller than in England, and that the suit in question was light blue, and says he hopes that the trend will catch on at home.<br />
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So why all this focus on the difference between 60s and 70s styles? In modern costuming, it's difficult to find a pattern that is specifically 1870s. A lot of what is available is either too broadly dated, such as "Vests: 1840 - 1900", or is out of range, like patterns geared specifically to Civil War or Rev War reenactors. With the popularity of shows like Downton Abbey, a lot of Edwardian-era patterns are popping up, which muddies the waters even more. Big 3 patterns often ignore the minor details, like the shape of the elbow, and produce something that's close, but not quite right. <br />
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The best we can do right now is tweak the available patterns so they are right for the period we're going for. If you are doing 1860s, then don't forget the big elbow and tapered pants! 1870s, bring that elbow in, widen your lapels, and lengthen that trouser hem.<br />
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Here are a few good resources I've found, that should help you on your journey into 1870s menswear:<br />
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<em><a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=FSgGAAAAQAAJ&source=gbs_similarbooks"><span style="color: #45818e;">The Gazette of Fashion and Cutting-Room Companion</span></a></em><br />
This volume is from 1870. Other years can be found in the "Related Books" suggestions underneath the main title. Contains fashion plates and patterns for menswear, with some women's patterns included. So far, this is the absolute best reference I have found for period menswear.<br />
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<em><a href="http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/03-Victorian_Early,Mid.htm"><span style="color: #45818e;">The Black Tie Guide: History of Evening Wear 1840s - 1880s</span></a></em><br />
A good, though brief, overview of evening fashions, with some attention paid to the 1870s. Goes over the minute changes in styles between decades, which is nice.<br />
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<em><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.blogspot.com/p/ultimate-victorian-trousers-sewing.html"><span style="color: #45818e;">Bad Wolf Costumes: Ultimate Trousers Pattern</span></a></em><br />
This pattern has all the right shapes for trousers from the 1870s. Bonuses include an extensive online instruction booklet on how to put it together, including tips on matching stripes and plaids.<br />Mistress of Disguisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12026149318569869306noreply@blogger.com0