Materials
         So   much fabric it boggles the mind (10+ yards)
       thread
       more safety pins than you'll ever   need again
       tailor's chalk
       a large, open space of   floor
Measurements
       Waist
       Waist to floor, over   hoop
     
       Disclaimer
I  can't really tell you how much fabric you'll need because I honestly  don't know.  I made a skirt with a single ruffle at the hem, and that  took up 10 yards of fabric.  This is a simple skirt to make, but it's  absurdly time consuming and not exactly easy on the budget.
     
       Instructions
       Start by making a circle skirt to   fit over your hoop, stopped before you gather the waist of the skirt into the waistband.  Leave the centre back   seam   open.
       That was the easy   part.
Measure  the length of your skirt from waistband to hem.  Divide this by the  number of tiers you want on the skirt.  Add 6" for the overlap.
I'll just be typing this out for a three-tiered skirt, but the same concept applies for any number of tiers.
Lay  your skirt out completely flat.  Use your measuring tape and mark out  where you want each tier to be.  This is tedious and time consuming, but  it's worth it in the end.  Leave the skirt where it is.
For the  tiers, I suggest working bottom to top.  If you start at the top, you  end up having to wrestle with the other ties of fabric, and believe me,  it isn't fun.
Measure the circumference of your skirt at the mark  where the lowest tier will be.  Multiply by 3.  Using this measurement,  cut out a strip of fabric the length of circumference-x-3, and as wide  as your tier measurement.  Do not include the extra 6" for the bottom  tier, there won't be another ruffle to overlap, so you won't need it.   Cut this out and finish off the top and bottom edges.  (It's easiest to  cut a bunch of strips of fabric that add up to the length that you need,  but it's perfectly fine if you want to cut it all as one piece.) Run a  gathering stitch across the top edge and gather it to fit onto the mark  on your skirt.
Now the fun begins.  Pin the ruffle in place.  Don't  be afraid to overuse your pins.  You'll be dealing with an unruly beast  of a ruffle, and it will want to do all sorts of things you don't want  it to do.  When you are finished, your ruffle should fall from the mark  you made to the hem of the skirt.
Once you are satisfied with the way  the ruffle is on the skirt, go ahead and stitch it on, leaving four  inches open on either side of the centre back.  (You should probably use  a smaller stitch to keep it in place.)  Be careful of the pins.
Lay  the skirt out flat again.  Measure the circumference of the skirt at  the next mark, multiply by 3.  This time, cut out a strip,  circumference-x-3 long by tier+6".  (You'll be using the tier+6" width  for the remainder of the ruffles.)  Hem, gather, and pin into place.
When  pinning this tier, the ruffle should overlap the bottom tier by a few  inches.  (This is why you added 6 inches onto the width.)  Pin heavily,  sew carefully.  Again, leave four inches on either side of the centre  back free.
Lather, rinse, repeat for as many ruffles as you wish to add.
For the final (top) ruffle,measure the circumference of your skirt waist.   Do not use your actual waist measurment, as the final ruffle will not  come out to the right length.  Multiply your skirt waist measurement by  3, and repeat the cutting, hemming, pinning process as usual, except  that this time you don't need to hem the top edge of the ruffle since  it'll be going into the waistband.  Stitch the ruffle to the skirt  waist.
     
You now have an unfinished skirt with three tiers  of ruffles on it.  Unfortunately, finishing it off is a bit  more  complicated than just running a stitch straight up the back, but don't  give up, you're almost finished!
Fold the ends of the ruffles  away from the centre back and pin them down to keep them from flapping.   Now, stitch closed the centre back seam, careful not to catch any of  the ruffles.  Leave the seam open 6-7 inches from the top.
Unpin the  ends of the ruffles.  With right sides together, stitch them closed at  the ends.  Once you've done that, pin the loose bits back onto the skirt  and stitch them down.
There is one slight alteration to make for the  uppermost ruffle.  When stitching the ends of the ruffle closed, leave  6-7 inches open at the top, corresponding to the 6-7 inches you left  open on the centre back seam.  Now, treating the opening in the skirt  and the opening in the ruffle as once piece (you may want to pin the  skirt and ruffle together around the opening), finish off the raw edges  and turn them under.  Now you can add a zipper, hooks and eyes, or  buttons with loops to close it up.  (You could even add grommets and  lace it closed!)
Complete the skirt by putting on a   waistband.  Now  try on the skirt, prance around in front of the mirror, twirl about in  your living room!  It was allot of work, so enjoy the fruits of your  labour!
Saturday, July 4, 2009
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I told myself I wasn't going to buy any more fabric until I had sewn up some of what I already have.
ReplyDeleteBut now I need to make a giant ruffle skirt!
Thank you for the tutorial, it was very well written. I understood it perfectly even though there were no diagrams, which is unusual for me.
I'm glad! I'll eventually have pics to go along with this tut, but I haven't had the need to make an over-hoop skirt in a while. ^^; I'm so glad you found it useful, and I would love to see your results! :)
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